Hunting Arrow Length Poll

[goathunter]

I used to shoot my arrows really short, just 1/2" in from the drop-away launcher, over the arrow shelf. So my arrow was 1" shorter than my draw length.

But it always made me nervous having that fixed blade behind my hand. So I went a little longer - 1/2" longer than my DL, and I realize that just put it right over my hand. I think I would actually need to go with an arrow length 2" longer than my DL to put it fully in front of my hand.

Assuming you can setup the ideal spine and arrow weight for any arrow length, what is your preference, particularly for shooting fixed broadheads - over the shelf or in front of your hand?

 

[Jstumbaugh]

I just went to 29-1/2" arrows for my 29" draw instead of the 28-1/2" I had been shooting. Minimal dif in point of impact and should have a much better clearance around my launcher with broadheads on.

 

[bsnedeker]

I have never once given a single second of thought to where the broadhead is in relation to my hand. Is this a safety concern on your part?

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[Billy Goat]

I generally try to have arrows cut about the Berger hole. That puts them about the throat of the grip. Seems to be more forgiving, I read that, can't prove or disprove. I still torque tune so sometimes that puts them 1/2" in front of the rest, sometimes it's 1.5".

 

[goathunter]

I have never once given a single second of thought to where the broadhead is in relation to my hand. Is this a safety concern on your part?

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Probably subconsciously. I also shot a vapor trail limb driver launcher for years

 

[goathunter]

I generally try to have arrows cut about the Berger hole. That puts them about the throat of the grip. Seems to be more forgiving, I read that, can't prove or disprove. I still torque tune so sometimes that puts them 1/2" in front of the rest, sometimes it's 1.5".

Going long sure does put a lot of arrow in front of the launcher

 

[5MilesBack]

My arrows are almost 3" shorter than my draw length, and they're still 30" carbon to carbon. No issues or concerns, but I certainly can't use any collars on my arrows with my QAD HDX rest.

 

[DanimalW]

The only long arrows I shoot are a pair that came with the bull frog heads for decapitating turkeys. Only heads I’ve seen that need the extra length for clearance. I love shooting those…

 

[OR Archer]

Cut to the front of my riser.

 

[Planopurist]

I’m about 1.5”(arrow length = draw length) in front of my rest. That’s mostly to give myself the desired arrow weight and some wiggle room to modify the arrow build if necessary (i.e. halfout vs. HIT, cut some off, add some weight to the insert, etc.)

I’m shooting .204” shafts so it’s not exactly easy for the arrow to come out here f the containment, but it’s possible. This is almost impossible with a standard shaft, so you could go shorter if shooting a .246”.


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[Pheasanthnter1]

I have a 31.5" DL so I always cut mine as short at possible to try to stay in my spine range.

I never worry about where the bh is in relation to my hand. Just keep your fingers down.

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[Elkhntr08]

Mine are about 1 1/2” in front of the launcher. That puts the footer about 3/4” in front. Won’t go any closer than that.

 

[npro04]

I cut mine to my draw length carbon to carbon. Add in the little bit from the insert and nock. Keeps them just long enough to get the broadbead out in front of the riser. Just have to pay attention to grip.

 

[5MilesBack]

I’m shooting .204” shafts so it’s not exactly easy for the arrow to come out here f the containment, but it’s possible.

The first thing I did when I put my QAD on my bow 8 years ago, was remove the containment bar. I've never had an issue without it even running with it chasing elk, but for some rests I can see that containment being desirable. With the long forks on the QAD launchers, it would just about have to turn upside down for the arrow to come out.

 

[Topo_trekker]

You want the rest to be in contact with arrow within the cm after insert ends. This will optimize flight and recovery which is even more important with fixed blade. So if you want a longer arrow move rest forward to compensate.

The best torque tuning position is usual with rest back near bend in wrist…more forgiving. This results in shorter arrow lengths, broadhead over shelf.

If you want to dig into this more it has to do with node placement. Really good description by Jake Kaminski here about 2:55

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[nphunter]

About the front of my riser, I use collars so I cut them long enough that my collar doesn't hit the drop away.

 

[Benincanada]

Like the guys above, as short as I can get them, 31" draw and 29" arrow puts me a little in front of my rest. Theoretically it means less drift due to wind and easier to find common spine arrows.

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[MattB]

Never thought about it. Would think about it even less these days were it possible with the advent of full capture rests.