How Often Do You Clean Your Rifle?

jakelogsdon

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Feb 1, 2020
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Agreed, Usage is what dictates cleaning for me. Some of my rifles can handle more than others. I've got a 300 win mag that handles way more copper than a 300 ultra I own. I have a .204 Ruger that I have to clean after about 15 or 20 rounds because accuracy starts to diminish substantially. Brushes and Patches, One piece Dewey rod. JB bore cleaning compound.
 
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Rarely. Bore snake. 0.4 MOA. But I don't put many rounds through it. I think that should determine when you clean it.
Kinda the same, although at least twice a year I give it a "good" (by my standards) cleaning with Hoppe's #9, a bronze brush and patches until I don't see any copper (green) on the patches anymore. That's usually at the end of the season (about now) before I put it away. The final patch is plain oil to prevent any rust from forming. It's humid where I live.

When season comes around, I don't want to mess with my bore very much. I might run a bore snake through it every 20 rounds or so, but for the most part I leave it alone.

I have no problem shooting the kinds of groups that give me plenty of confidence for a hunting rifle. I don't take long shots on game anyway.

If I were shooting competition or long range (not for me) then I am certain my cleaning routine would have to change.
 

Kenn

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I'm going to start cleaning a LOT less based on the video below and others who have voiced similar opinions. The one thing I wonder about is should I clean carbon out regularly, but not tackle the copper until the groups start spreading?

 

smith406

FNG
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Nov 1, 2016
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Whenever this gets brought up everyone only talks about when to push a patch but maintaining a rifle is more than just barrels. I only clean the bores when accuracy falls off which isn't that often. Usually my actions need a little attention after a windy range session cleaning dust and junk out.
 

Wiscgunner

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I run a single patch of Hope's # 9 through the barrel then a few dry patches to keep the carbon down. This is down after each match to also aid in getting water, dust and debris out that may be in there. Typically this is after approx 200 rds between pratice and match shooting. I DO NOT clean the barrel to bare metal as approx 150-200 rnds are needed to settle in the copper and maximize the velocity potential.

Depending upon the match conditions I will also strip the bolt (super easy) and clean the receive of my TL3 after each match. I cleaned the bolt and receiver thoroughly. People all too often clean their barrels way too much, I was taught the same thing as a boy by my grandfather but have since learned better. The biggest things that need cleaning are carbon buildup to avoid a carbon ring and sand/dust in the action/barrel which are obviously detrimental to potential performance during the next outing.
 

ChrisAU

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I now have 122 rounds through my Cooper 280AI in two years with 0 barrel cleanings...still shoots tiny little groups. At my current pace it'll probably be a few years before I do.
 
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Back in my oil trash days, round count would get obscene at times on prairie dogs.

when the roads would get shut down it wasn’t much to see 8-10 boxes of black hills 52gr reman go down the pipe in 3-4 hours.

It’s pretty hard to cool down barrels when dogs are poppin up, and it’s tough to clean something smokin hot. Get home quick for start of playoff hockey and a hot and sweaty.

Rinse and repeat that for a good half a week. Check zero at some point and group size doesn’t drastically increase it’s hard to justify the time cleaning

this was before I shot 10 shot groups for checking group size so who knows.
 

Axlrod

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For me it depends on the gun/chambering. I have a 308 with over a thousand rounds since the last cleaning and a 6.5 creed that I have never cleaned- its prob close to 2000 rounds. My 28 Nosler gets a carbon build up and the pressure goes up and the groups open after 50 rounds so it gets cleaned at 40 or less. I have a comp. gun in 284 win that will shoot very well until it hits 120 rounds or so and then i have to clean the carbon out.
Don't know if it is the barrel or the powder type or amount of powder burned.
Either use your targets to tell you what is going on or a borescope periodically to see what it looks like.
My hunting guns i clean while at the range and then shoot a few foulers.
 
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My cleaning regimen depends entirely on that particular rifle, some require a thorough cleaning every 20-30 rounds. while others can go upwards of 100-200.

my big magnums always get a consistent cleaning - I don't want that dreaded carbon ring!
 

OXN939

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I'm going to start cleaning a LOT less based on the video below and others who have voiced similar opinions. The one thing I wonder about is should I clean carbon out regularly, but not tackle the copper until the groups start spreading?


That's an awesome video that is very thoughtfully put together. The one place I differ is when he sends a bore brush down the bore and then reverses its direction from front of the barrel towards the chamber. A really world class armorer I know has always said emphatically that nothing should pass through a bore in any direction other than how the bullet flies, and that doing so can damage a rifle's accuracy. Makes sense when you think about it metallurgically.

To start a dumpster fire, said armorer also believes that while dirty bores can definitely be more accurate, they are also more susceptible to corrosion as spent powder residue is hygroscopic. I looked at a rifle a few days ago that, according to its owner, had less than one box of ammo put through it in the late 90s and was put back in the safe... and there was visibly apparent corrosion in the bore that wouldn't come out even with a thorough cleaning. Thoughts?
 
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BCD

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That's an awesome video that is very thoughtfully put together. The one place I differ is when he sends a bore brush down the bore and then reverses its direction from front of the barrel towards the chamber. A really world class armorer I know has always said emphatically that nothing should pass through a bore in any direction other than how the bullet flies, and that doing so can damage a rifle's accuracy. Makes sense when you think about it metallurgically.

To start a dumpster fire, said armorer also believes that while dirty bores can definitely be more accurate, they are also more susceptible to corrosion as spent powder residue is hygroscopic. I looked at a rifle a few days ago that, according to its owner, had less than one box of ammo put through it in the late 90s and was put back in the safe... and there was visibly apparent corrosion in the bore that wouldn't come out even with a thorough cleaning. Thoughts?


I've read where other "experts" disagree and suggest running the brush both ways. Not sure if there is really a right or wrong here.
 

Kenn

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I've read where other "experts" disagree and suggest running the brush both ways. Not sure if there is really a right or wrong here.

I imagine both are correct - it's just a matter of how anal you are. For me, pulling the brush back through will never make enough difference to worry about. If I was a world class shooter, then it might.
 

Varminterror

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Nov 19, 2019
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Once per year just to keep lubrication and protection on some, every 400-500 rounds on others which get shot more frequently. Some of the best groups I have ever fired have been on 200-400 round dirty barrels.
 

Low_Sky

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....A really world class armorer I know has always said emphatically that nothing should pass through a bore in any direction other than how the bullet flies, and that doing so can damage a rifle's accuracy. Makes sense when you think about it metallurgically.

What do you and/or armorer-friend believe is the metallurgical basis for this?

I’m on board with cleaning from the breech to reduce the risk of damaging the crown (with a bore guide to protect the throat and leade too). I’ve even drilled the back of my 10/22 receiver so I can clean from the breech. To me, it doesn’t have much to do with metallurgy per se.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Motown

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Dec 11, 2019
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I was always guilty of cleaning a lot more than I should until a few years ago. I have started to exclusively use Boretech products and swear by them.

Boretech C4 is awesome at removing any kind of carbon and Eliminator does an awesome job with cooper and neither take much effort at all.

With both of them I run 3-4 wet patches down and let it sit for 10-15 mins. After that I run a nylon brush soaked in either product and 3-4 more wet patches. A couple more dry patches after that and you are done.
 
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