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if your boots are ever saturated with water, that means the leather is thirsty and needs treated. Leather should never take on water if you want it to last. Properly treated and waterproofed boots should have water bead up and roll off.I live in Oklahoma. You can go for a morning walk in the spring through ankle high grass and your boots are saturated from dew.
I was gonna say, the leather on those boots looks hammered, ie not good care by the owner.Lowa renegades fail at the toe seams consistently. Lots of guys like them because they are comfortable out of the box, but it comes at the cost of durability. It looks to me like your boot has likely gone through several wet/dry cycles without good care so they start to crack and dry rot.
I have gotten up to a few years out of their more robust boots with near daily wear.
I was gonna say, the leather on those boots looks hammered, ie not good care by the owner.
YupHe mentioned dealing with a lot of mud. My experience is that if you aren't proactively treating them before mud and getting it off asap for retreatment, the mud sucks all of moisture out of the leather and causes the cracking.
The leather on the renegades would absorb water from day 1… it would take longer to soak through but would eventually. Do people normally treat their boots before even wearing them?if your boots are ever saturated with water, that means the leather is thirsty and needs treated.
This is good to know. These boots have definitely seen wet ag fields more than once.When I worked in clay mud in the ditch we determined it to be one of the biggest killers to our boots.
I believe the first defense is the boots ability to shed water. Similar to a pickup with a good wax.The leather on the renegades would absorb water from day 1… it would take longer to soak through but would eventually. Do people normally treat their boots before even wearing them?
This is good to know. These boots have definitely seen wet ag fields more than once.
Of all the things I've used Kenetrek wax is what has worked the best. I'm conditioning my leather boots multiple times a year if I want them to last.I also feel that waterproof sprays, cream etc are not that great.
I’m currently in the boot/leather Wax belief.
I want the water beading up and rolling off as much as possible.
Currently Kenetrek wax is what I have on hand.
I’ve used a lot of obenhaufs on work boots. It seems decent at waterproofing, but I consider it more of a conditioner to soften super stiff leather.
But I’ve heard multiple manufacturers blame obenhaufs to get out of warranty claims.
Specifically danner and failed stitching.
I haven’t decided on what I believe.
My red wing and thorough good work boots have seen a lot of obenhaufs and no problem.
But I don’t typically work in mud often anymore and if I do I try to hide off.
I smeared the heck out of those 980s with sno seal to try get more life out of them.
I think it’s a decent waterproofing. But I also feel it clogs the leather pores and holds in more sweat so it’s a double edged sword.
I also feel that waterproof sprays, cream etc are not that great.
I’m currently in the boot/leather Wax belief.
I want the water beading up and rolling off as much as possible.
Currently Kenetrek wax is what I have on hand.
Good luckI’ve been using some sort of Nikwax nubuck leather spray. I’ll get some kenetrek ordered and try it out as well on my next pair.
Amen on the Kenetrek wax. I wear crispi’s, and they recommend the nikwax stuff, but it’s never actually performed. Kenetrek boot wax flat works. Put it on thick and give it plenty of time (I like to do a week) to soak in and dry and reapply as soon as you see the water saturating.I’ve been using some sort of Nikwax nubuck leather spray. I’ll get some kenetrek ordered and try it out as well on my next pair.