How do I build my own rifle?

[Havuhgooday]

I want to build a 7prc bolt action rifle but I have zero experience with this. I cannot find a lot of step by step info on how to do this so I’m not sure where to start.

Would be using this for hunting elk and want the capability to shoot 400-800 yards.

I know I want:
7prc caliber
Proof carbon fiber 24” barrel
A nice stock with adjustable cheek rest

Aside from that I’m lost on the process.

I definitely want the barreled action to be left to a professional, but can I assemble everything besides that?

Any forums, YouTube videos, websites, threads I can checkout that will help me with this?

Thanks

 

[RWT]

Have to ask have you ever fired a rifle?

 

[Havuhgooday]

Yessir I have a tikka t3x 300 winmag. Been on a handful of hunts. Go to the range maybe once every 6 months.

 

[Marbles]

Order a prefit proof carbon for your Tikka (your current bolt face and action will work). Have a smith spin it on, or get the tools to do it yourself.

Pick the stock you want and drop it in.

Personally, carbon barrels are a marketing thing. Get a good steel bull barrel and have LRI flute it with their Pattern X. It will be lighter and stiffer than carbon without the draw backs of retaining heat and possible delamination.

This is assuming that by "build" you mean assemble lego parts like most custom rifles are.

 

[RWT]

OP Listen to Marbles. He is correct on every point. I have one carbon barrel I order on a custom. Like how it shoots but will never do it again. Carbon is an PIA. All steel for me and I going pencil thin and short. Easier to carry with a can Bullets kill not heads stamps.

 

[Havuhgooday]

Order a prefit proof carbon for your Tikka (your current bolt face and action will work). Have a smith spin it on, or get the tools to do it yourself.

Pick the stock you want and drop it in.

Personally, carbon barrels are a marketing thing. Get a good steel bull barrel and have LRI flute it with their Pattern X. It will be lighter and stiffer than carbon without the draw backs of retaining heat and possible delamination.

This is assuming that by "build" you mean assemble lego parts like most custom rifles are.

For sure I appreciate this info. Is LRI a place you are recommending for their service? Never heard of it.

I wanted to try 7prc for its long distance capabilities but I think you’re suggesting staying with my 300 winmag is fine?

I believe my gun might be the “lite” model which I’m assuming means it’s lighter than the other models. The problem I have is the gun kicks super hard and I was thinking that could be because of how light it is.

I hate shooting the gun it recoils so bad.

 

[RWT]

For sure I appreciate this info. Is LRI a place you are recommending for their service? Never heard of it.

I wanted to try 7prc for its long distance capabilities but I think you’re suggesting staying with my 300 winmag is fine?

I believe my gun might be the “lite” model which I’m assuming means it’s lighter than the other models. The problem I have is the gun kicks super hard and I was thinking that could be because of how light it is.

I hate shooting the gun it recoils so bad.

Keep searching this forum before you spend a dime. If recoil bothers you consider a 223 trainer or a 6.5CM. I have both and you will find the more you shoot the better you get at with distance. Seriously sell the 300 win and get something that doesn’t rattle your teeth. You will be happier and shoot more in the long run. Figure every 300 shell is worth 3 or 4 223 or 6.5CM. You get a lot more practice for the $ and will want to practice due to less recoil.

 

[Marbles]

For sure I appreciate this info. Is LRI a place you are recommending for their service? Never heard of it.

I wanted to try 7prc for its long distance capabilities but I think you’re suggesting staying with my 300 winmag is fine?

I believe my gun might be the “lite” model which I’m assuming means it’s lighter than the other models. The problem I have is the gun kicks super hard and I was thinking that could be because of how light it is.

I hate shooting the gun it recoils so bad.

Both 300 win mag and 7 PRC use a magnum bolt face. So, you can screw a 7 PRC barrel on your current Tikka action and be good to go.

If recoil bothers you, get a heavier profile steel barrel and skip the fluting. Add a suppressor, which will give some recoil reduction and just make it more enjoyable to shoot in general.

Personally, I would step down to a standard bolt face. But, if you want longer range than a 243 or 6 creed will get you, than a 6.5 PRC will be lower recoil than the 7 PRC and kill just as well (and can use your current bolt).

I'm assuming you need factory ammo options. If you reload, a 6.5 PRC necked down to 25 cal or 6mm would be a sweat long range option.

P.S. on recoil, I thought I could handle it having shot a 458 Lott, but stepping down from a 30-06 to a 243 has done wonders for my shooting, as has getting a 223 "trainer". Somehow the trainer keeps coming along for hunts now though and the 243 spends more time in the safe.

 

[MCS]

Long range only has build videos on YouTube

 

[nm.otter]

I wanted to try 7prc for its long distance capabilities

How far out do you intend to kill critters?

My 20" 6.5 Creedmoor is lethal out to at least 700 yards shooting factory ammo at 6,000 ft.

 

[chaser_2332]

Skip the carbon proof

 

[Havuhgooday]

Both 300 win mag and 7 PRC use a magnum bolt face. So, you can screw a 7 PRC barrel on your current Tikka action and be good to go.

If recoil bothers you, get a heavier profile steel barrel and skip the fluting. Add a suppressor, which will give some recoil reduction and just make it more enjoyable to shoot in general.

Personally, I would step down to a standard bolt face. But, if you want longer range than a 243 or 6 creed will get you, than a 6.5 PRC will be lower recoil than the 7 PRC and kill just as well (and can use your current bolt).

I'm assuming you need factory ammo options. If you reload, a 6.5 PRC necked down to 25 cal or 6mm would be a sweat long range option.

P.S. on recoil, I thought I could handle it having shot a 458 Lott, but stepping down from a 30-06 to a 243 has done wonders for my shooting, as has getting a 223 "trainer". Somehow the trainer keeps coming along for hunts now though and the 243 spends more time in the safe.

Thank you for this information, it’s a lot to take in but will absolutely consider this. Especially dropping the carbon barrel.

Unfortunately I am in California so no suppressors allowed here. Muzzle break is as good as it’s going to get.

Some recoil is fine but I’m telling you something about this gun it kicks bad.

Thanks again

 

[Havuhgooday]

How far out do you intend to kill critters?

My 20" 6.5 Creedmoor is lethal out to at least 700 yards shooting factory ammo at 6,000 ft.

400-800 yards, hunting elk.

 

[huntnful]

If a gunsmith is doing the barreled action, just pay him to do the rest as well. There can be several issues with fitup and alignment and feeding issues with a pieced together rifle. Not to mention, properly bedding the action into the stock.

 

[Megalodon]

Are you able to turn a screw driver? Are you familiar with the concept of “lefty loosey, righty tighty”??

 

[chaser_2332]

To be honest at this point factory rifles have gotten so nice and come with correct twist rate that unless you have a 100% perfected idea of every component you want you might be money ahead for looo at factory offerings. They’ll do exactly what you asking.

 

[Darkone1221]

Everyone hates on carbon barrels, but they do have a place. For someone who builds a rifle, hikes their balls off with it, hunts with it, and only uses it to shoot a few bullets a year. They’re great. I am not that guy. I like to go shoot steel at the range, so I stick with stainless barrels. Anyways here’s my two cents

High end factory rifles id say are accurate right out of the box: from my favorite to least favorite
Seekins
Horizon
Fierce
Browning X bolt 2

Tikkas are the best budget rifle on the market

Low budget custom:

Tikka build:
Shouldered Proof or preferred barrel blanks
Lighter trigger spring
Check out McMillan stocks if you want a high end stock. Once you install the shouldered barrel, test it with a go gauge and a no go gauge.

Can also look at a zermatt origins action


High end build:

Defiance action/Lone peak action

Shouldered Proof or preferred barrel

McMillan stock - game warden or game hunter are my personal favorites

Trigger tech trigger.

Bed action in stock

Lap barrel (if needed)

Bed picitiny rail

Ensure rings are strait

Test headspace with go/ no go gauge.

Of course you can do a chassis build if you’d like too. Check out MDT for that.

There’s a lot more to it, but it’s not hard. Guys can totally help you through it on here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nm.otter]

400-800 yards, hunting elk.

At what density altitude (elevation, mostly)?

Monos love velocity. I'd probably be looking at a 6mm Creedmoor, or perhaps a 6.5mm PRC -- running the heaviest, longest legal slugs I could get.

 

[SouthPaw]

I know I want:
7prc caliber

Go to the range maybe once every 6 months.

I hate shooting the gun it recoils so bad.

400-800 yards, hunting elk.

OK.

I'm not gonna be that Rokslide guy to say you need a 223 or 6mm, if you want a custom 7prc that's fine.

However, if you want to even consider 400+ yards on animals, you need to shoot more than twice a year. A new gun isn't going to automatically take you to 800yd proficiency. You need to fully understand the entire system and put a lot more time into practice. It sounds like you already are recoil sensitive to your current gun and likely have a flinch issue.

A training course or finding a good mentor is probably what you should focus most of your effort towards. That and ammo / range time.

 

[Havuhgooday]

Everyone hates on carbon barrels, but they do have a place. For someone who builds a rifle, hikes their balls off with it, hunts with it, and only uses it to shoot a few bullets a year. They’re great. I am not that guy. I like to go shoot steel at the range, so I stick with stainless barrels. Anyways here’s my two cents

High end factory rifles id say are accurate right out of the box: from my favorite to least favorite
Seekins
Horizon
Fierce
Browning X bolt 2

Tikkas are the best budget rifle on the market

Low budget custom:

Tikka build:
Shouldered Proof or preferred barrel blanks
Lighter trigger spring
Check out McMillan stocks if you want a high end stock. Once you install the shouldered barrel, test it with a go gauge and a no go gauge.

Can also look at a zermatt origins action


High end build:

Defiance action/Lone peak action

Shouldered Proof or preferred barrel

McMillan stock - game warden or game hunter are my personal favorites

Trigger tech trigger.

Bed action in stock

Lap barrel (if needed)

Bed picitiny rail

Ensure rings are strait

Test headspace with go/ no go gauge.

Of course you can do a chassis build if you’d like too. Check out MDT for that.

There’s a lot more to it, but it’s not hard. Guys can totally help you through it on here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is exactly what I was hoping for when I asked the question. I’m leaning on a high end build.

If I purchased all the parts you listed I’ll need a gunsmith for bedding the action and shouldered barrel and barreled action? Everything else I can purchase as long as it all jives, right?