How bad is the glass on SWFA 3-15

[Jordan Smith]

No doubt. We are seeing between 75-100 rifles used for at least 1,000 rounds each a year. 15’ish being used for 3,000 to 4,000 rounds a year. On average no matter how it’s applied, blue loctite is not setting up in about 5-10% of screws weeks to months after being applied. Paint pens- some are better than others (thicker); are about one out of 20 screws or less. To date, no screw using finger nail polish has still been wet weeks later, on any screw- though I’m sure there is some level of dilute too.

Hey Form, I hope all is well!

Is this a particular model of blue Loctite? I've switched from 242 to 243.

 

[Formidilosus]

Hey Form, I hope all is well!

All good here sir. Good to see you posting here a bit more.

Is this a particular model of blue Loctite? I've switched from 242 to 243.

Mostly 242, some 243.

Just because people read (not meaning you) what they want versus what was actually written- I am not saying that Loctite doesn’t work. Just that I/we have seen enough uncured Loctite on small screws that if an option that has less uncured instances is available, I use that.

 

[Drenalin]

All good here sir. Good to see you posting here a bit more.





Mostly 242, some 243.

Just because people read (not meaning you) what they want versus what was actually written- I am not saying that Loctite doesn’t work. Just that I/we have seen enough uncured Loctite on small screws that if an option that has less uncured instances is available, I use that.

In the next couple of weeks, I'm going to be putting scopes on a couple of Tikkas (SWFA scopes, UM rings). My intent is to mount the scopes correctly one time, and then leave them on the rifles forever. In that scenario, what are you using? Is Rocksett out of the question? I have no idea how it would compare, in terms of failure rate, to the other oprtions.

 

[RWT]

I can recommend Vibratite. I switched to it last year and am having good results. Has anyone considered letting blue locktite dry before installing? This is the recommended process for Vibratite. Let is sit 15-30 mins depending on humidity, then install. Haven’t had a wet screw yet and used it to swap out at least 8 scopes. Still use a paint pen or nail polish as witness marks.

Regarding the glass comments on the SWFA. The 3x15 is more than adequate up to 12X. I’ve notice tunneling on mine above 12. Considering most of my critter hitting is between 6-12 I have no issue.

 

[littlebigtine]

The front lip is barely on the angle in most I have seen when mounted on the cut away actions. Which means even when torqued down, there is movement happening (notice the front of the hole is buggered as well).


What was the torque you used for the base screws?

55 in/lbs. I see your point. It does look like the pin impacted the front of the mounting hole probably as I torqued down the screws slipping the rings toward the back of the action.

 

[Formidilosus]

In the next couple of weeks, I'm going to be putting scopes on a couple of Tikkas (SWFA scopes, UM rings). My intent is to mount the scopes correctly one time, and then leave them on the rifles forever. In that scenario, what are you using? Is Rocksett out of the question? I have no idea how it would compare, in terms of failure rate, to the other oprtions.

Not roksett. I would, and do- use standard nail polish. A pretty good blob on each screw.

 

[NSI]

Not roksett. I would, and do- use standard nail polish. A pretty good blob on each screw.

In the semi-permanent use case, why not rocksett?

-J

 

[Formidilosus]

In the semi-permanent use case, why not rocksett?

-J

Because I’m not sure I would view any scope as semi-permanent. Scopes are the most fragile item in rifles, and getting Rokset to release when needing to unmount will probably be difficult without damaging the scope. Also, it just hasn’t shown to be necessary.

 

[Alpha Echo]

Who’s said that? And it wasn’t the paint that was the issue- bet money. It’s his cut away action and where he mounted the ring. “Paint” coming loose isn’t causing a screw to lossen up enough to shear a pin- nor is loctite…. But mounting the ring too far forward where the dovetail isn’t full depth will…

Not the first cut away action with busted pins either.


Here’s one, and if the recoil pin was used, it would have broke it too-

Who’s said that? And it wasn’t the paint that was the issue- bet money. It’s his cut away action and where he mounted the ring. “Paint” coming loose isn’t causing a screw to lossen up enough to shear a pin- nor is loctite…. But mounting the ring too far forward where the dovetail isn’t full depth will…

Not the first cut away action with busted pins either.


Here’s one, and if the recoil pin was used, it would have broke it too-

I'm curious whether mounting the front ring further back, such that the clamping force is above the ejection port, is also not advisable.

 

[RWT]

I have noticed the UM rings blocking the ejection port as well.

 

[Shortschaf]

I'm curious whether mounting the front ring further back, such that the clamping force is above the ejection port, is also not advisable.

from a strength standpoint there is zero practical difference mounting the rings there or more forward.

The ring clamps just need to be fully biting into the steel dovetail

Whether it causes brass ejection problems is another story and more case-by-case Im sure

 

[Alpha Echo]

from a strength standpoint there is zero practical difference mounting the rings there or more forward.

The ring clamps just need to be fully biting into the steel dovetail

Whether it causes brass ejection problems is another story and more case-by-case Im sure

Luckily mine is on a RSS 223, so I'm hoping I won't have any ejection issues. The strength/recoil pin shearing issue was my primary concern.