Help - tikka decision

I had this same mental dilemma and ultimately ended up with a T3X Stainless Laminate in 30-06. I've owned a couple of 300WM in the past (Remington 700, Ruger Hawkeye) and found them controllable but didn't find the extra recoil worth the extra muzzle energy. Ammo was also harder for me to source.

This is my second Tikka as I had a stainless 308 with synthetic stock in the past. I did not like the synthetic stock. It was very flimsy and would impart pressure on the barrel if using it off some sort of rest.

My 30-06's laminate stock is very rigid. I did replace the "bottom metal" with ... actual metal ... ordered directly from Beretta.

The 30-06 in a lightweight / non-precision rifle does everything I expect from a rig of this type. (400 yds and in).

If I was going to step back up to 300WM for the "perceived ballistic advantage" I would have MOA build me an ultralight with the most obnoxious recoil mitigating muzzle brake available because I'd want more accuracy than a light profile / COTS rifle can deliver.
 
Buy the stainless 22". Tikka really did well to decrease the standard barrel length and thread it. This will be super handy when you want to suppress it.(trust me you want to suppress it.) 300 win mag tikka has been my primary big game gun since 2012. Buy a sims pad and a break. and you're ready for anything. I get the alure of the small cartridge tread. But if you are traveling to hunt... 13 years with a 300 has shown that there are no bad angles.
 
Loading manuals tend to show faster burning powders in 30 06 than they do 300 win mag. My hornady manual specifies 300 win mag has a slower powder to take advantage of longer barrels.

Sir. Bigger cases use slower powder because they are bigger cases and fit more powder, a certain level of case fill is desired, and fast powders would spike pressure too fast. They dont use pistol powder in SBR 556s.

There may be a slight difference in velocity lost per inch of barrel based on powder choice but it's all noise in the big scheme of things.
 
I have the t3x lite in a 22” inch threaded 1:10. I have an Shv 4-14x50, limb saver, and supressor. Weights about 9 lbs, easy enough to carry with a gun bearer. Recoil is more of a push than a jolt, I can usually spot shots around 500 or get back on target pretty quickly at closer ranges. It’s been very accurate with Barnes and nosler ammo (only I’ve tried). Shoots 180 ABs about 2900 ft/s. So far I really enjoy it and have no plans of getting something else. Shot my bull this year a little past 500 and watched him drop in the scope.
 
I have the t3x lite in a 22” inch threaded 1:10. I have an Shv 4-14x50, limb saver, and supressor. Weights about 9 lbs, easy enough to carry with a gun bearer. Recoil is more of a push than a jolt, I can usually spot shots around 500 or get back on target pretty quickly at closer ranges. It’s been very accurate with Barnes and nosler ammo (only I’ve tried). Shoots 180 ABs about 2900 ft/s. So far I really enjoy it and have no plans of getting something else. Shot my bull this year a little past 500 and watched him drop in the scope.

300 or 30-06?
 
Sir. Bigger cases use slower powder because they are bigger cases and fit more powder, a certain level of case fill is desired, and fast powders would spike pressure too fast. They dont use pistol powder in SBR 556s.

There may be a slight difference in velocity lost per inch of barrel based on powder choice but it's all noise in the big scheme of things.
He threw his sucker in the dirt, and went home awhile back.
 
I bought the 300wm t3x lite with 22” stainless barrel with threaded muzzle, and I’m very happy with it. I intend for it to be my mountain rifle. It’s right at 8 lbs with the scope, which I think is pretty good. I do intend to replace the factory stock but I haven’t found the stock to be too bad- it’s pretty rigid, definitely a lot better than other factory stocks. I do plan to suppress it as soon as I can save up some money, but I didn’t think the recoil was too terrible as is.
Just a suggestion. I'd strongly recommend a backstop or limbsaver recoil pad. That makes a huge difference to the rather lousy Tikka brick that comes attached to the stock. With an aftermarket recoil pad, the stock is actually just fine, and it will make your shooting much less unpleasant.
 
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