Help finalize the "Dixie Zipper" (Mini CBK) for a group buy

Netherman

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Pass around versions getting sent to Hereinaz soon
#5 was the most extreme handle blade angle and most likely be a one off.
interested to hear opinions based on reviewer index finger length. I wouldn't want to be too far away and lose control, but being longer than the tip would be even worse. Mine's exactly 3" from first crease to tip so I'd guess somewhere in the 3.25 would be ideal for me.

On the other hand, too short might be less of a concern with this handle design as the deep cut would allow you to slide back some and effectively shorten your index finger.

super excited to see how this turns out as the iterative process to find/create the "perfect" game knife would be cost prohibitive for johnny public. Props to Dixie and Hereinaz for making this happen.
 
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hereinaz

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interested to hear opinions based on reviewer index finger length. I wouldn't want to be too far away and lose control, but being longer than the tip would be even worse. Mine's exactly 3" from first crease to tip so I'd guess somewhere in the 3.25 would be ideal for me.

On the other hand, too short might be less of a concern with this handle design as the deep cut would allow you to slide back some and effectively shorten your index finger.

super excited to see how this turns out as the iterative process to find/create the "perfect" game knife would be cost prohibitive for johnny public. Props to Dixie and Hereinaz for making this happen.
This is a 3 3/8 blade, and my finger is 3" from the crease. I am not over-extending, but I am purposefully reaching it forward.

I don't think this will be a problem with a 3" blade.

IMG_9755.jpegIMG_9756.jpegIMG_9757.jpeg
 
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The plan is once I have everything finalized, and the blades start to get cut, I will launch the preorder. I will already have the handles cut by then so the blade maker can get the right fit.

As of right now:

Dixie sent me patterns and is finishing a set of “pass around knives” for a sort of chain mail for feedback.

I need a set of Roksliders to agree to handle and play with the knives for a few days, then mail it to the next guy. And, post up feedback on size shape, handle feel, etc.

I am confident in the blade design and one handle, so I am concurrently working with a cad engineer to work out the files to send to a US blade maker to cut, grind and heat treat the blades. As well as cad files for a handle maker to cut and contour G10 handles.

Dixie and I are most interested in the handle feel to come up with another one or two more favorites.

To make the knife lighter we are going with a half hidden tang so that I can use one blade and customers choose the handle. It will be full tang for the first 1/3-1/2 where the majority of the force needs to be, and then transition to a hidden tang. So, I can act quickly to get new handles made.
Do you have an idea on the price? Or is that something you’ll figure out when you have the finished product?
 
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hereinaz

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Do you have an idea on the price? Or is that something you’ll figure out when you have the finished product?
I am working that out, but definitely not MKC money. It's intended to be a working knife, so I am keeping it as inexpensive as possible.

The first pre-order will be a huge discount for Roksliders, especially the ones who have helped here.
 
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I am working that out, but definitely not MKC money. It's intended to be a working knife, so I am keeping it as inexpensive as possible.

The first pre-order will be a huge discount for Roksliders, especially the ones who have helped here.
We all appreciate all the work you guys are doing! Looking forward to getting my hands on one. My favorite is the #2.
 

Dixie

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Any more progress on this one @Dixie? I am asking totally unselfishly of course! /s
Had some things come up but should have it finished ground this week... thanks for the reminder .
28th is my last day of official work so until fishing and Bear hunting this spring I should get some projects done.
 

The Guide

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#5 was the most extreme handle blade angle and most likely be a one off.
I like the looks of #5 and sure would like to see how it felt in my big hands. My wife gets a lot of the knives I buy cause they just don't feel good in my hands.

Jay
 

Maverick1

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#5 was the most extreme handle blade angle and most likely be a one off.
I like the look of #3. The handle is rounded in the areas where some of the others have a more stepped area mid handle. Also thinking that #5 is the least appealing due to the angle it would put your hand and wrist in relation to the blade while cutting. But this is just off pictures and some actual butchering or cutting would provide some insight. Thanks for the picture.
 
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I don’t know if it’s already been suggested, but if you could do something to make this first batch of knives unique for the group buy it would be very cool.
 

crich

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This is a 3 3/8 blade, and my finger is 3" from the crease. I am not over-extending, but I am purposefully reaching it forward.

I don't think this will be a problem with a 3" blade.

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A little bit of jumping on the spine near your index finger pad might be a good idea as a frame of reverence for wet hands or awkward positions. I occasionally pull the knife and look at how much tip I have exposed when opening up the belly or working a hind quarter off near the gut so I don't accidentally punch into something unintended.
 
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hereinaz

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A little bit of jumping on the spine near your index finger pad might be a good idea as a frame of reverence for wet hands or awkward positions. I occasionally pull the knife and look at how much tip I have exposed when opening up the belly or working a hind quarter off near the gut so I don't accidentally punch into something unintended.
I have thought about many possibilities, out of the box thinking. This is a creative idea, and one I will keep in mind for future knives that follow a more traditional shape. Because, using “conventional knives”, this is something to consider and always bear in mind—where is the tip.

I have covered this before a little, so bear with me. This conversation is helping me work out words to describe the change in “feel”. Some people might not want to change knives because they are used to the way they do it and don’t care. We aren’t making this knife for them… and that’s OK. I will make more knives in time.

With the Dixie Zipper, you should find that you change the way you have to constantly manipulate and “think about the tip”.

To get everything from this knife, we have to think differently. It’s actually even a little more uncomfortable/awkward to try to keep your finger out to the tip—because the curved spine does the work of your finger.

It’s what I had to constantly fight against, my brain automatically going to how I have held processing knives. It’s muscle memory.

After stumbling on the other thread, the design made me start over. I couldn’t figure out why it was such a weird shape. So, I started not with the knife but my hand and arm. Meaning, I put my hand and arm in positions to cut- and then shaped the handle and angle to me—ergonomics.

You should find it easy to hold the handle or choke up and wield the knife comfortably with one grip for many different tasks.

When it comes to work where we traditionally worried about the tip, the blade design nearly eliminates the worry.

And, the design just works better, it zips under the hide without catching the tip. We who have tested it literally just grab the handle and unzip the hide in one long slice.

If gutting, you will have to pay more attention, but the leaf design does work for you. It’s hard to explain, but the curve on the back pushes the stuff you don’t want to cut away from the tip.

AND; the long curve on the cutting edge effectively means you never run out of blade.

With a traditional knife that has a curved tip and then a straight section, the angle is too shallow on the straight edge, so the knife slips under the hide or belly flesh. That is why you run the knife under and up to the finger guard. You then have to tip the cutting edge at a better angle to cut. But, that then pushes the tip into the meat or guts.

This blade angle/geometry requires the repeated sawing, and the “rythym” of the knife: slip under, push until cutting stops, tilt and pull up, reinsert knife, repeat.

The long curve of the blade means you get cutting action the whole length. And, the curve of the spine keeps the tip from catching by pushing the meat/guts away. It functionally does the same thing as your finger—but better.

When skinning, the blade will zip from end to end in one long motion—without hacking.

When gutting, you may still use your finger, but you don’t need to be right at the tip.
 
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