Help building arrows

stx.dead.I

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Messages
261
I am looking to build some gold tip pierce in 250 spine.

I got the following planned

29"
21 grn nock (lighted)
4 vanes unknown which ones
4" wrap equalling 4 grn
100 grn broadheads
And 100 grains at the insert. Insert and collar weigh about 30 grns.

What do yall suggest to add 70 grns to the front of my setup?
 
250's are going to be severely underspined for that set up if you add any weight to the front.. I would look at 200 spine and add 150g inserts to the front. I know the Gold tip kinetic line comes in 200. I ran some numbers with kinetic kaos 200's with 150g inserts and that puts you at around 630grains and 287fps. That speed will allow good fixed blade flight as well.
 
250's are going to be severely underspined for that set up if you add any weight to the front.. I would look at 200 spine and add 150g inserts to the front. I know the Gold tip kinetic line comes in 200. I ran some numbers with kinetic kaos 200's with 150g inserts and that puts you at around 630grains and 287fps. That speed will allow good fixed blade flight as well.

Im looking for a micro diameter shaft. What weight up front would I need to be correctly spined with these arrows?
 
Not as bad as I thought. You could run 50grain inserts and still be ok. Would put your total weight around 530
 
50 grn inserts on the pierce to make it 530?? That's not the weight I came up with
 
I would just build whatever arrows I wanted to use and then turn the bow down to wherever it needs to be to shoot them well. At 30" draw and a fast bow to start with, you've got plenty of speed to give up and get something tuned well. That's why I didn't go 80lbs with my current bow, at 32 1/2" draw it just over complicates everything in regards to spine and shootability, and I'm already shooting the Kinetic XT 200's at 70lbs. I really like the 280-290fps range for speed. Good trajectory and decent pin gaps that you can actually see between. When I get up into that 315ish speed zone, all the pins are on top of each other.
 
With 85g inserts Im at 518g with the arrow on the weak side of good on the spine chart in OT. I still would go heavier and get your speed down. Broad head flight is going to suck at 315 fps.
 
How are you getting away with a 250spine.
I shoot a 2014 cst 80# 30.25in. Draw and my ximpacts are just in the yellow on the weak side and I have a 32gr. Outsert 125gr. Broadhead at 29in. Long and just a standard get nock three Fletcher skb 200s
 
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This is what it was showing
 
I'm feeling 4x aae pro max (lower profile vanes) I'm doing mechanicals and if I can't get good flight at 310fps then I will back the draw weight down until I can.
 
If you don't own arrows, yet. The question I'd ask is. "What are you trying to accomplish?" My answer to that question is: "completely perfect bare shaft flight, then broad head consistency (consistent is very different than accurate). I'd like my set up needs to deliver broad heads, every time, on the spot. No weird "flyers" or inconsistency. i don't care about speed. Ever. "

It is a bit off the beaten path, so here we go.

I target 18+% FOC and I am not a believer in "stiff is always better". I can't make it work. There seems to be a significant and absolutely visible consistency jump around that number. Its like the arrows are magic and stack up tight with very little effort on my part. Are they a bit slower, yes, but man, the consistency is just hard to believe.

Current setup is 67lbs 27.5" draw, 28 1/4" 400 spine arrow shooting a 125 grain point and 100 grain brass insert. They will shoot with no fletching as far as you want to and hit with the nock right behind the arrow. Broad heads, Magnus Stingers (the new Black Hornet is totally nasty too) are preferred, it shoots muzzy's, montec, basically whatever. I do not shoot mechanicals (I did, though, too many "weird" losses and penetration was always suspect).

I realize I am totally cutting against the grain on a message board with this many experienced folks, but my recommendation to you is 340 spine, shaft cut to your preferred length and 225 grains up front. If it doesn't work, that's ok, you jump to 300 spine. You'll find carbon arrows are very, very, forgiving on the "softer" side. If you jump off the bridge and give this a rip, find a traditional guy or someone to help you increase point weight.

As noted above. If you want perfect broad head flight, give this a chance. If you want the fastest set up, that is not my specialty.

Have fun out there with whatever you choose. There's a bunch of ways to skin this cat.
 
If you don't own arrows, yet. The question I'd ask is. "What are you trying to accomplish?" My answer to that question is: "completely perfect bare shaft flight, then broad head consistency (consistent is very different than accurate). I'd like my set up needs to deliver broad heads, every time, on the spot. No weird "flyers" or inconsistency. i don't care about speed. Ever. "

It is a bit off the beaten path, so here we go.

I target 18+% FOC and I am not a believer in "stiff is always better". I can't make it work. There seems to be a significant and absolutely visible consistency jump around that number. Its like the arrows are magic and stack up tight with very little effort on my part. Are they a bit slower, yes, but man, the consistency is just hard to believe.

Current setup is 67lbs 27.5" draw, 28 1/4" 400 spine arrow shooting a 125 grain point and 100 grain brass insert. They will shoot with no fletching as far as you want to and hit with the nock right behind the arrow. Broad heads, Magnus Stingers (the new Black Hornet is totally nasty too) are preferred, it shoots muzzy's, montec, basically whatever. I do not shoot mechanicals (I did, though, too many "weird" losses and penetration was always suspect).

I realize I am totally cutting against the grain on a message board with this many experienced folks, but my recommendation to you is 340 spine, shaft cut to your preferred length and 225 grains up front. If it doesn't work, that's ok, you jump to 300 spine. You'll find carbon arrows are very, very, forgiving on the "softer" side. If you jump off the bridge and give this a rip, find a traditional guy or someone to help you increase point weight.

As noted above. If you want perfect broad head flight, give this a chance. If you want the fastest set up, that is not my specialty.

Have fun out there with whatever you choose. There's a bunch of ways to skin this cat.
Ya that's the first time I've heard suggesting 340 spine on my setup haha.


I bought the 250 spine pierce arrows from gold tip. Plan on doing a 4 fletch aae pro max vane setup with a couple and three fletch a couple and see which one I like better
 
If you don't own arrows, yet. The question I'd ask is. "What are you trying to accomplish?" My answer to that question is: "completely perfect bare shaft flight, then broad head consistency (consistent is very different than accurate). I'd like my set up needs to deliver broad heads, every time, on the spot. No weird "flyers" or inconsistency. i don't care about speed. Ever. "

It is a bit off the beaten path, so here we go.



I target 18+% FOC and I am not a believer in "stiff is always better". I can't make it work. There seems to be a significant and absolutely visible consistency jump around that number. Its like the arrows are magic and stack up tight with very little effort on my part. Are they a bit slower, yes, but man, the consistency is just hard to believe.

Current setup is 67lbs 27.5" draw, 28 1/4" 400 spine arrow shooting a 125 grain point and 100 grain brass insert. They will shoot with no fletching as far as you want to and hit with the nock right behind the arrow. Broad heads, Magnus Stingers (the new Black Hornet is totally nasty too) are preferred, it shoots muzzy's, montec, basically whatever. I do not shoot mechanicals (I did, though, too many "weird" losses and penetration was always suspect).

I realize I am totally cutting against the grain on a message board with this many experienced folks, but my recommendation to you is 340 spine, shaft cut to your preferred length and 225 grains up front. If it doesn't work, that's ok, you jump to 300 spine. You'll find carbon arrows are very, very, forgiving on the "softer" side. If you jump off the bridge and give this a rip, find a traditional guy or someone to help you increase point weight.

As noted above. If you want perfect broad head flight, give this a chance. If you want the fastest set up, that is not my specialty.

Have fun out there with whatever you choose. There's a bunch of ways to skin this cat.




Take it for what you want but that is bad advice. Shooting the arrow your recommending out of a 80lb/30DL set up is flat out dangerous.
 
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