Hard bolt closing on brand new tikka

[2-Stix]

I had this on a savage once. The gunsmith ran the go no go gauge and it was in spec.

 

[SDHNTR]

Not all go, no-go gauges are the same. On a factory rifle, you’d want a set that corresponds to Saami min and max.

 

[NWBLKTAIL]

I just picked up my 7mm-08 tikka and few boxes of Hornady it closed hard. Just like the 243 precision hunter did on my M70. The precision hunter on my tikka 270win.

It has all shot fine for me, and I just resize the brass and reload it never an issue again.

This has been a reoccurring thing for me with Hornady ammo

 

[Mike D Texas]

Both my 308 and my 300WSM Tikka rifles have stiff bolt close, even on new brass. I have to bump the shoulder .001-.002 and then it chambers just fine.

That doesn’t help on factory ammo though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[bruno747]

Anyone have issues with bolt closure/open on an empty chamber? I just got my super varmint out to the range. First 10 rounds were normal now you have to nearly hammer the bolt at a 45 degree angle forward and down to get it to close and there is a super hard notch the last tiniest bit on opening before it will come back.

The firing pin indicator is pushing back another 16th of an inch or so when its hard closing. Shoots like a dream, acts like its cocking mechanism is locking up.

 

[skipper907]

Anyone have issues with bolt closure/open on an empty chamber? I just got my super varmint out to the range. First 10 rounds were normal now you have to nearly hammer the bolt at a 45 degree angle forward and down to get it to close and there is a super hard notch the last tiniest bit on opening before it will come back.

The firing pin indicator is pushing back another 16th of an inch or so when its hard closing. Shoots like a dream, acts like its cocking mechanism is locking up.

have you pulled the bolt and looked and it ? checked inside the action ?
Are you shooting reloads ?
Does this happen on an empty chamber ?

 

[Brontosaurus]

Your extractor might be a little sharp and is cutting into the brass when you close the bolt. Check the rim of the head of your brass for a shiny spot where the extractor claw might be shaving the brass. To fix it just shoot the gun alot

 

[bruno747]

Ya'll can mark this down as I'm an idiot. Rings shifted on the picatinny rail just enough to barely interfere with the bolt didn't notice it at the range. Moved the rear ring forward one slot and all is well.

I'm amazed a heavy 22-250 moved the scope back with what nightforce says to torque the cross bolts to.

Good news is of the 10 rounds I fired, it did a half inch 5 shot group and a half inch 3 shot group after two shots to dial the scope in.