Hamskea Versa Rest Full Capture - Vane Clearance?

[xcutter]

Bought one of these rests. Love the rest and quality but having issues clearing vanes. I shoot blazers. Also had to do some trimming on the plastic capture piece with a razor blade for launcher clearance and remove the rubber piece on the side of it. Anyone had this issue? I'm going to try some Blazer X2's. They should clear fine. Don't know how well the X2's will work with rage broadheads.

Thanks for the help.

 

[cody covey]

Never had that issue and have shot lots of different vanes out of that rest, including blazers. Try changing the blade on the launcher and stiffness. Could be your getting contact there and not on the full containment piece. Also check cable clearance, have seen blazers contact there. Last place would be to check back end of shelf for contact. Did you use lipstick or baby powder and know for fact your getting contact on the rest? Is it set nock level through the middle of the bergers?

 

[xcutter]

I should clarify a few things. I'm running it limb driven from the top limb of a Hoyt Carbon Defiant 34.

Rest is setup perfect in the center of the berger hole and level. No cable clearance issues.

Got the rest launcher setup as far straight up as possible. Had vane contact with the shelf of the rest on the left side where the launcher pivots. It was hitting bad enough to cut my vanes and cause horrible arrow flight. Only way I can shoot blazers currently is to turn my cock vane around 10 degrees clockwise looking down the string to clear the rest shelf on that left side.

I have a preload on the limb attachment cable. So the spring is stretched some.

I'm not experienced with these rests so any input is appreciated.

 

[camping1601]

I just looked at mine and don't see how your getting any contact related to the vanes. Any chance you have real bad nock travel throwing your arrow low?

 

[xcutter]

Could be a possibility. I'm not ruling anything out. I set the rest up just like I would a Trophy Taker. Put the rest on eyeballed center of Berger hole with level on my arrow and on my string to establish my nock point. I have not paper tuned the bow. Sounds like I need to post some pics.

 

[doverpack12]

Pics would help. If you do decide to switch from blazers i don't think you will regret the advantages of the blazer X2s. 4 fletch them and they will be incredibly accurate. They also don't have memory so if your vanes accidentally touch something they will still be straight. As far as your current contact I can't visualize what part you are talking about. Are you left handed?

 

[xcutter]

I will have to get some pics up when I get off work. Yeah I agree X2's are great vanes. I've used them for 3d a lot. I've never tried them in a hunting application.

I'm right handed. If you are holding your bow and getting ready to draw it would be the far left side of your arrow where the bearing is housed. The shelf of the rest has a U shape. It would be the left top side of the U. I can't get rid of the contact point of the rest.

 

[cody covey]

Heres what i would do just form reading what you wrote above:

Get rid of spring and tie directly to limb. Check centershot is dead money. Check bow timing. Check nock pinch. Im also a proponent of laying that rest down and not setting it up as verticle as possible. From reading it it sounds like the launcher isnt dropping fast enough so it could be a faulty rest, but maybe im not understanding exactly where the contact is happening.

 

[chobbs]

Sounds like you need to move the launcher blade position on the shaft. The blade itself is mounted too far to the left on the bearing arm. Take off the blade itself and move it to the right, 1-2 holes over. Then reset your center shot by doing a large adjust back to the left on the main windage adjustment on the body of the rest.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[jmez]

Do you have the black rubber piece on the back portion of the rest? If you do take it off and throw it in the trash, Blazers will not clear with that in place. Just cover the back of the rest with mole skin.

If you are getting contact on the left side of the rest then your center shot is off, you have bad horizontal nock travel, or as was mentioned above, you have the rest arm too far to the left.

On a Hoyt, they have a small curved shelf. You have to set the Hamskea up so that the arrow holder is completely behind the shelf, it is going to be like an over draw. When using the large, full containment arrow holder, it won't drop all the way unless it is behind your shelf.

 

[xcutter]

I'll check out my launcher location. Looks good to me but I have to missing something. Center shot is perfect shooting out to 40 yards. As long as I do not get vane interference.

I had issues with the arrow holder also. Took it off. Would not clear vanes at all.

 

[jmez]

Measure the center shot from the riser, not the black rubber on the shelf. Post the measurement. You can have center shot set so that your arrows fly well but be outside the factory recommendations.

Did you set your center shot by moving the rest or twisting the yokes?

Do you have it set back so that the launcher arm is completely behind the shelf? If not I'd bet is isn't dropping all the way and you are getting launcher arm contact kicking your arrow to the left.

 

[xcutter]

I'll have to get measurements later for center shot when I get off work.

I set the center shot by moving the rest. I set the cam lean with yoke before setting up rest. I set the cam lean using an arrow laid against the cam and get it parallel with the string by adding or taking away twist from the yoke strands. Left or right. This is how I have always done it. But I have never had a Hamskea rest before either. Is this the wrong method for a Hamskea?

I have the rest set as far back as I can without hitting the arch of the riser.

 

[jmez]

Not sure there is a right or wrong way to set it up. I set my rest at factory recommended center shot and then make all adjustments from there with the yokes. I don't move the rest. Either way I think you should have the rest within factory specs.

Nock/string travel is ultimately what you are setting. The factory spec for center shot, as I understand, is the centerline of the string path for the particular geometry of the bow you are shooting. You want your string traveling as close to that path as possible. By setting your rest and then yoke tuning you are putting that string path within that spec. When you move the rest you aren't bringing the string tract into the centerline of the bow. You are moving it the opposite way of the string path to compensate for lateral nock travel.

 

[dangerousD]

I'll have to get measurements later for center shot when I get off work.

I set the center shot by moving the rest. I set the cam lean with yoke before setting up rest. I set the cam lean using an arrow laid against the cam and get it parallel with the string by adding or taking away twist from the yoke strands. Left or right. This is how I have always done it. But I have never had a Hamskea rest before either. Is this the wrong method for a Hamskea?

I have the rest set as far back as I can without hitting the arch of the riser.

Did you ever figure out your issues?

 

[Tilzbow]

I have the same rest and have used two of them for several years on four different Hoyts. I've never been able to get Blazers to clear the rubber arrow holder that clips on the rest or the little rubber piece where your arrow goes through the capture. Took both off and all is good.

 

[xcutter]

I had several issues. I could not get the blazers to clear at all. They hit the plastic containment arm. I switched to Blazer X2 vanes and did a 4 fletch. To get the vanes to clear on the bottom I had to raise the lizard tongue angle as high as possible. When I did this it made the lizard tongue hit the containment arm. I had to take a razor blade and trim notches in the plastic on the containment arm for clearance. If I was shooting a normal Hamskea I don't think I would of had any of these issues. The biggest problem was the containment arm. It works great now though.

I know this seems like a lot of unnecessary work but that's what I had to do to get vane clearance. I've setup up a lot of rests over the year's and this was by far the most difficult. I'll probably go back to Trophy Taker when I switch rests again.