Halfouts and hidden inserts advice

picketuc

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Mar 1, 2020
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Recently I’ve been shooting Easton axis 5mm arrows and had problems with them hitting rocks or hard objects and shoving the field point into the arrow, thus ruining it. So I switched to halfouts thinking they’d be stronger but they seem to effect the arrow flight significantly. I would rather avoid resighting in my bow, so what recommendations do you folks have for making the front of the arrow stronger without adding a bunch of weight or doing a lot of tinkering? Also, any suggestions on a cheaper alternative to Easton axis arrows? I understand you get what you pay for, but $100 for a dozen shafts is getting pricey. Thanks for your help
 
Only advice I can offer is to try and not shoot your arrows at rocks and hard objects. I understand the occasional miss when hunting but seems like that should be minimal if taking high percentage shots.
 
Only advice I can offer is to try and not shoot your arrows at rocks and hard objects. I understand the occasional miss when hunting but seems like that should be minimal if taking high percentage shots.
Maybe I should’ve elaborated on this, but two of the busted arrows hit a foam target on the practice range at TAC (apparently there’s a metal piece in the spine) and the rest.....well yeah it’s TAC.
 
I shoot axis as well and was having the same issue. More just mushrooming the tip.

I had 50gn brass inserts.

On my new set, I'm going with the 16gn aluminum insert and 35gn stainless steel collar from ethics archery. Keeping right at the same point weight of 51gn with more strength.
 
First thing is always make sure your field tips are tight, i think its gold tip and top hat that make them with an o ring. Second spend the money and get some footer/collars from iron will, that really beefs up the front end of a shaft. Half outserts will cause you more problems than they will solve. If you don't like any of those options you may consider switching to a standard diameter arrow (6mm] and running a regular old insert.
 
One way to strengthen those up is with the Iron Will collars. They are a must have for hidden inserts in my opinion
 
As others have already said, Iron Will collars will all but eliminate your issues in most cases. They make a 25gr stainless one and a 10gr titanium one. It will add to your cost but you will save a lot of arrows, so in the long run you will spend less. Make sure you know the Outer Diameter of your arrow and chose the correct collar size for your shaft.
 
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Square the end of your arrow before glueing in any insert system. Then use quality components with tight tolerances.

the concept of half outs isn’t your issue, it’s likely execution.

for Eastern whitetail hunting, give me any average carbon arrow, squared, and ethics 100gr ss half out, fixed blade broadhead of choice.

there are advantages to going to two piece systems, but they likely aren’t realized inside 30 yards on deer or smaller sized game in my opinion.

the collars from IW, or any two piece system will make the joint stronger, IF executed properly. The collar will also assist in squaring broadhead to end of shaft.
 
As others have said footers/collars are what you need. I personally use axis with the Ironwill hit and collar. Good materials and robust.
 
What are you using for glue? I use HITs without collars and don't seem to have that many issues with mushroomed tips, but I do expect it when I miss and slam into something hard. It is part of the cost of using .204 diameter shafts. I tried the IW collars but wasn't impressed, sure they made the arrows a little more durable, but added significant cost, another component with slight variation in weight, and IMO they offered no improvement in broadhead alignment over a squared carbon end. The bare end of the .204 diameter shaft is the single biggest benefit of that size and HITs, squaring broadheads perfectly is as easy as a couple stokes on the G5 device. I have had the best luck with Goat Tuff rubberized high impact adhesive, it gives me ample time to properly seat the insert (AAE Rubberized set WAY to fast) and holds pretty well, better than the Easton epoxy has for me.
 
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