Gunsmith said Tikka .308 barrel has bad factory tooling marks?

[Fassi123]

Last year I bought a lightly used T3x super light that we struggled to get to shoot accurately at 100yds. Different ammo. The whole 9 yards.

Took it to a reputable gunsmith recently who used a borescope and told me that there’s really bad factory tooling marks inside the barrel. He said he’s never seen that before on a tikka.

Has anyone ever heard of this before? I did again, but it used, and even though it looked like it was lightly used you never know what somebody could’ve done I suppose.

 

[grfox92]

You dont have any pictures of the tooling marks do you?

 

[dieselchessy]

The $55 teslong borescope on amazon isnt half bad. I scope all my stuff. You’d be surprised what you see out of factory rifles.
Also surprising how bad they can look and still shoot good.

 

[grfox92]

The $55 teslong borescope on amazon isnt half bad. I scope all my stuff. You’d be surprised what you see out of factory rifles.
Also surprising how bad they can look and still shoot good.

I was going to say, regardless off the tooling marks, I can almost guarantee that isn't the problem.

OP, what scope, mounts and rings? Factory stock?

 

[doc holiday13]

Did you tell the Gunsmith his face has bad factory tool marks?

You could always find a good shooter and ask if they can get it to group or explain it to tikka and see if they'll fix the issue. Maybe get photos of the marks as proof

 

[homebru.trout]

Never heard of this on a hammer forged barrel...theoretically possible due to chatter when drilled/reamed before forging. How bad are we talking? 1.5 MOA or improved cylinder ?

I'm not asking the following questions to be condescending...I've definitely had situations where I missed something or otherwise created situations where the guy holding the tool (me) was the problem.

Are you using a known good scope? I have a fixed power SWFA just sitting in the safe for situations like this...
Check torque on all screws? Verify mounts and scope?

Options for further tinkering include bedding it to an aftermarket stock or bolting it up to a stock with a bedding block, hand lap the barrel depending on how bad the tooling marks are, cut and recrown? But the barrel is usually the last place I look when a gun doesn't shoot.

It sorta depends on your level of patience with a factory rifle...Tikkas generally will shoot without a ton of fanfare but they are a mass produced product and there will be a stinker every once in awhile. After all the tinkering, at the end of the day, you may have found it used for a reason which is a bummer. If you're married to the rifle, PBB is a pretty economical option for a new steel barrel and I've had the LSWild guys spin two semi-custom guns for me and they both shoot.

 

[Ajsomp]

noting all the above and trying to determine mechanical accuracy of the barrel - I would just snag a factory take off barrel here or from J&A. 308 barrels go for around $100 or less on here because no one sees the value in them. Just swap it and give it a go and keep the other one on hand. If you put it on and it still doesn’t shoot, I’d say it’s not the barrel..

 

[skipper907]

tooling marks ? tikka barrels are hammer forged not sure how you would get tooling marks

 

[Wrench]

I had a sako finlight that exhibited the same marks....in 300wsm. It also shot awful. It was such a painful experience to get it fixed that I bought a machine shop and started doing my own riflesmithing.

 

[The Harbor Master]

If you're set up with tools for a barrel swap, I bet you can find a .308 take off barrel for around $100. Problem solved.

 

[Laelkhunter]

If you're set up with tools for a barrel swap, I bet you can find a .308 take off barrel for around $100. Problem solved.

Only if it the barrel causing the problem. If it's the scope or the mounts or even the shooter, a new barrel won't solve anything.

 

[The Harbor Master]

Only if it the barrel causing the problem. If it the scope or the mounts or even the shooter, a new barrel won't solve anything.

Sure, but if OP thinks the tooling marks are the problem, he can rule that out with a swap.

Pics of the marks would be interesting, like stated above I'm not sure how CHF would leave bad marks.