Garage Bow Shop Help

[The Angelo Kid]

Alright folks, after a couple of disappointing trips to some archery shops around me I'm going to dive into trying to get some equipment to be able to do some (minimal) work on my bow for myself. I'm not willing to drop a pile of money on this right now (so I'm not getting a press unless maybe something like a Bowmaster portable). I've already got an American Archery Products Parallel Universal Bow Vise on the way. I guess one of my most basic questions is in regards to other equipment, specifically if anyone has any experience with October Mountain Products levels, square, etc. They have their Archery Tech Tool Starter Kit (I get you can buy stuff individually and probably save money). I've just seen lots of stuff about the quality of bow and arrow levels being subpar (with the levels being set in the plastic housings way out of level) from a lot of companies and was curious if anyone had used OMP's levels.

Like I said I'm just starting this adventure and just trying to learn. Hadn't been able to find too many reviews on OMP's levels or their bow or arrow scales although I know folks like their vises.

Also plan on picking up a Hamskea Easy Third Axis Level so if anyone has one they want to offload let me know.

 

[wapitibob]

Find a press that works similar to the last chance at 1/3 the money (archery talk classifieds), get an arrow saw, 8-10" level, bow vice, and build a draw board. Last chance archery scale is probably the best out there. Bitzenburger fletch jig with the 60x upgrade; the last chance jig is the best one but very pricey.
I'd buy a standard bow square before I bought that omp level; it'll tell you 90 deg, nock height, peep height, etc.

 

[Zac]

I have the OMP micro adjust wide limb model and it is pretty awesome for setting up nock height. Probably gonna grab the Hamskea took and start playing with thid axis adjustments, just need to get a dovetail sight. But yeah OMP is very legit. If I were you I'd save 2k and buy one of Last Chance starter kits.

 

[coontz74]

Find a press that works similar to the last chance at 1/3 the money (archery talk classifieds), get an arrow saw, 8-10" level, bow vice, and build a draw board. Last chance archery scale is probably the best out there. Bitzenburger fletch jig with the 60x upgrade; the last chance jig is the best one but very pricey.
I'd buy a standard bow square before I bought that omp level; it'll tell you 90 deg, nock height, peep height, etc.

Very good advise here...lots of quality tools listed.

I‘m not sure what model press he speaks of for 1/3 of an EZ Green but would love to find one of those myself for a second.

 

[Arctic Hunter]

Along with the above stuff, I’d get an arrow squaring tool as well.

 

[87TT]

Ah the journey down the rabbit hole begins. Once you start tuning, those little cable portable presses will be too slow and cumbersome. I built a bow press for around $50 that works great. The Hamski is great too. The little plastic level set that ataches to the string and arrow are workable. The cheap bow vise I bought works ok for vertical work but i made a bow stand out of wood for horizontal work or use the press. The drawboard I made with a strap winch off eBay For $20. That and Youtube is awesome.

 

[MaxHenderson]

Ah the journey down the rabbit hole begins. Once you start tuning, those little cable portable presses will be too slow and cumbersome. I built a bow press for around $50 that works great. The Hamski is great too. The little plastic level set that ataches to the string and arrow are workable. The cheap bow vise I bought works ok for vertical work but i made a bow stand out of wood for horizontal work or use the press. The drawboard I made with a strap winch off eBay For $20. That and Youtube is awesome.

What vice do you have?


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[87TT]

What vice do you have?


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Looks like this one off ebay;. Hard to keep it tight for horizontal work.

 

[coontz74]

Looks like this one off ebay;. Hard to keep it tight for horizontal work.
View attachment 224750

I have heard that about this vise. I am in the market for a vise as well. Seems quality costs some serious dollars.

 

[X-file]

I’ve never had a vice. Spent the money on a press and learned how to tune. Instead of levels I use arrows and parallel to riser and the shelf. Combine that with knowing how the arrow reacts to a tune it saves on some of the other equipment. I also got a decent set of Allens to go with it.

Draw boards are great but have only really found the need for one a couple of times out of probably a hundred bows.

There is a lot of great reading material and videos to learn from as well

Good luck. Being shop independent has been a great investment in my shooting.


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[coontz74]

I’ve never had a vice. Spent the money on a press and learned how to tune. Instead of levels I use arrows and parallel to riser and the shelf. Combine that with knowing how the arrow reacts to a tune it saves on some of the other equipment. I also got a decent set of Allens to go with it.

Draw boards are great but have only really found the need for one a couple of times out of probably a hundred bows.

There is a lot of great reading material and videos to learn from as well

Good luck. Being shop independent has been a great investment in my shooting.


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Some good advise here as well...

I would be curious as how you set up a level arrow to the bow without a vise though....or do you just tune to a paper hole? Which make sense, but curious of your setup.

 

[wapitibob]

I've never set an arrow "level" in 50 years; use a bow square.

Lancaster Archery Supply Aluminum Bow Square

• Anodized aluminum construction • Features laser-etched precision metric and inch scales • Useful for measuring brace height, tiller and nock position • Measures in cm. on one side and in. on the other • Assorted colors - colors cannot be guaranteed

www.lancasterarchery.com

 

[X-file]

Some good advise here as well...

I would be curious as how you set up a level arrow to the bow without a vise though....or do you just tune to a paper hole? Which make sense, but curious of your setup.

I have a couple of arrow shafts from previous broken arrows. I will set that arrow in the groove of the shelf so that it is level with the bow. Then I parallel the new arrow to that. I do the same for center shot though some bows have a riser that is uneven. In that case I use the limb bolts to line up center shot. This usually gets me close enough to tuned that I only have to make minor adjustments.

I think the most important thing is getting the bow close to spec and timing the cams prior to setting up the rest. Especially with elites and the newer pse’s


As for holding the bow, I have a bowpod. I will put the bow pod on and use books and magazines to kind of level and stabilize the bow. Depending on the bow the books would go either under the cam or under the limb bolt

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[coontz74]

I have a couple of arrow shafts from previous broken arrows. I will set that arrow in the groove of the shelf so that it is level with the bow. Then I parallel the new arrow to that. I do the same for center shot though some bows have a riser that is uneven. In that case I use the limb bolts to line up center shot. This usually gets me close enough to tuned that I only have to make minor adjustments.

I think the most important thing is getting the bow close to spec and timing the cams prior to setting up the rest. Especially with elites and the newer pse’s


As for holding the bow, I have a bowpod. I will put the bow pod on and use books and magazines to kind of level and stabilize the bow. Depending on the bow the books would go either under the cam or under the limb bolt

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Thank you for such a detailed reply. Very informative. I will definitely try these methods.

 

[coontz74]

I've never set an arrow "level" in 50 years; use a bow square.

Lancaster Archery Supply Aluminum Bow Square

• Anodized aluminum construction • Features laser-etched precision metric and inch scales • Useful for measuring brace height, tiller and nock position • Measures in cm. on one side and in. on the other • Assorted colors - colors cannot be guaranteed

www.lancasterarchery.com

I have a bow square and know how to use it fairly well. My question would be whether you use a bow square or a leveling system with a vise, you are still setting the arrow to a number in your case and a bubble in my case.

Either way requires a shot thru the paper to confirm....correct? I’m still learning the basics and trying to absorb all methods of tuning.

Thank you for your input to my questions.

Sorry OP for the highjack.....

 

[wapitibob]

I don't shoot thru paper anymore. Over the years I know I need to be about 1/16 up with my lower nock set. For indoors I bare shaft at 10 yards then 20, then group tune and play a bit with cam rotation. For outdoors I do the same thing but group tune at 60. I'm basically substituting bareshafts for paper and go from there, tuning for solid groups and forgiveness. I nor anyone I know, ends up with bullet holes when done.

 

[coontz74]

I don't shoot thru paper anymore. Over the years I know I need to be about 1/16 up with my lower nock set. For indoors I bare shaft at 10 yards then 20, then group tune and play a bit with cam rotation. For outdoors I do the same thing but group tune at 60. I'm basically substituting bareshafts for paper and go from there, tuning for solid groups and forgiveness. I nor anyone I know, ends up with bullet holes when done.

Quite the process and it is obviously working for you. I guess I struggle with understanding how an arrow can group at “60” and not shoot a bullet thru the paper...

I am curious to try this method though as it seems the grouping at “whatever distance” is more important to me than having the perfect hole.

Thanks again for taking the time to explain the process...greatly appreciated!!

 

[KBC]

Save some time and set it up as close as you can, then bareshaft through paper at a couple yards. As long as it’s close just go out and tune at further distance with BHs. You can spend a ton of time getting bareshafts to shoot bullet holes at a few yards and then still have to tune it for BHs after.
Why tune it to shoot perfect bareshaft bullet holes only to go trhough the same tuning at distance after?
Take that with a grain of salt, I’m only on my second bow but it seemed to work for me.