Frank Church Solo Elk Hunt Report 2024

Aginor

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 23, 2020
Messages
165
Location
Idaho
Every year I see questions about how to hunt the Frank Church. Access, partners, where to go, how to do it. Lots of questions, but seldom any trip reports. I figured I could give back instead of taking for a change. Sorry for being so verbose, but I like to be thorough.

I usually hunt the early season in the Frank, but my daughter was due in September this year so I had to find a different hunt. Being unsuccessful in both of the controlled hunt applications, I was stuck with the pumpkin patch of 39 or late season in the Frank. I chose the latter.

Step 1: Research
When I received the notification that I failed the second draw in August, I got to work figuring out how to attack this. The only late season hunting I’ve done is deer. Mule deer, whitetails, and blacktails, but those aren’t elk. Step 1 was to research both late season hunting and Frank Church Wilderness specific hunting. I have a lot of experience in the Frank, but early season and late season are two very different animals. Access is the main issue, but also the elk migrate down to the Middle Fork. So although I have a lot of experience hunting the southern end (closer to the river), I usually hunt the west side, which is vacant by the time the snow starts (if you can even access it).

I have probably read every forum and article on the internet that mentions hunting the Frank Church Wilderness for any animal. Lots of hiker trip reports (scouring specifically for mentions of elk/elk sign). There isn’t much out there to be honest and I did not cross a single hunting forum post that didn’t have at least one comment saying “don’t do it”. But I read it all and found a few general areas that I thought would be productive.

Funnily enough, it was more difficult finding relevant late season hunting advice. Nearly everything I read focused on getting away from hunting pressure (not a problem in the Frank) or driving roads and glassing country (none of those in the Frank either). The good nuggets I could find were to (obviously) glass for tracks in the snow. This time of year elk are in sanctuary mode, so if you see tracks then they are probably still in that area. I began refining my area search to south faces looking specifically for higher elevation, wooded benches. Water is always an issue in those parts, but I was counting on having snow so it wasn’t as high of a priority.

There is also one final feature that I was looking for that is plentiful in the Frank. It’s my personal secret though - just something I’ve observed about deer and elk in Idaho and quite literally always find them near these special places.

Next up was researching landing strips. I was familiar with a few, but wanted all the publicly available ones mapped so I could judge proximity to all the hunt areas I was looking at. I should mention that I also did the Treeline Academy and was relying heavily on all the mapping tools Mark teaches how to use. I even read the landing strip plans for the final four that I had picked out.

At this point, I felt like I had a good, pointed list of questions for a biologist and had enough information to have a useful conversation with him. I called up Shawn Shruff out of Salmon and after playing phone tag for a few days, had a very fruitful chat. He answered my long list of questions that ranged from thoughts about specific areas to general questions about how elk behave and where to find them that time of year. By the end of the phone call I had my landing strip picked out.

So far, this time frame was about 4 weeks. The rest of my research up until departing was watching YouTube videos on how to hunt late season and any videos I could find that were specific to Idaho, reading elk hunting forums, and e-scouting. Even on the shitter I was e-scouting constantly. I found a cluster of 4 drainages that had exactly what I was looking for in elk features and I wanted to know every inch of them in as much detail as possible before I landed. One of them even had an entire south face that had burned 5 years prior!

Step 2: Training
My go to training method is backpacking. Practice how you play or however the saying goes. But seeing as how I had a baby due, my wife did not let me get away pretty much the entire summer (she nests hard when she’s pregnant). I did get a good scouting trip in the first week of August in a different part of the Frank that I have been eyeing for years. It was unfortunately not at all productive for elk sign. Funnily enough all the elk sign was where I knew the elk were from previous hunts, but I digress.

When it became apparent that I wasn’t going to be getting out nearly as much as I needed to, I took up mountain biking, which was short lived because the air quality in Idaho was absolute dog shit last summer.

Next I tried Mountain Tough, but I just couldn’t stick with it. Funny how our preferences change with age because when I was younger that is exactly what I would have looked for in a workout program.

Finally, reluctantly, I joined a gym/HIIT workout center. I ended up absolutely loving it. I could just shut my brain off and do what I was told for an hour and stayed in great shape. These guys definitely never skipped leg day. I didn’t miss a workout 5 days a week from August 1st until I left.

Step 3: Logistics
My original plan was to just drive into one of my usual spots, but in June during spring bear I got my truck stuck half off a cliff driving in the snow so I was a little uneasy even though I have a ton of mountain/forest road driving experience. I figured if I was going to buy a wench, the best tire chains out there, a tow strap, and whatever else, then I may as well look at flight prices. After my first call I was sold. I got the peace of mind to not have to worry about getting stranded and the convenience of just flying out of Cascade. I called the other flight services out of McCall, but ultimately settled on Smith Air out of Cascade.

So far as gear goes, I had pretty much everything. I have been backpacking and hunting since 2015. I’m a gear head though, so of course I had to go do my research and check out all the new stuff on the market.

Now, I use a hammock pretty much exclusively outside of Alaska, Iceland, and Norway (all the places with no trees). They are way warmer and vastly more comfortable than sleeping on the ground like a heathen. However, the one thing that sucks is that over longer time frames in winter camping it’s pretty much impossible to dry things out. Seeing as how I was going to do this solo with a new baby at home, I knew that motivation was going to be a massive factor in this hunt. Any time I’m away from my son I miss him so freaking much and one mention on the InReach of something wrong at home and I want to get back to my family and help out so badly. I have yet to cave, but I hate that pressure and definitely didn’t need it tacked on to being cold and wet. All that to say I decided I should switch out the hammock for a hot tent.

My tent was a fancy cuben fiber backpacking tent, so I sold it and bought the Argali Rincon and the Peax Torrid. The tent because it was the lightest of all the options I was looking at (and when I drove over to Argali and checked them out they blew my mind how small/compressable and light they were) and the stove because even though it was slightly heavier than some of the other options, it didn’t look nearly as tedious to set up.

Aside from that, the only major items I needed were some puffy pants and some warmer hunting pants. I went with the SG Grummans and the First Lite 308 Lined pants after trying both on at Scheel’s.

One final logistics thing - I know from past hunting trips that if I’m gone too long my wife will inevitably send me that dreaded text asking me to come home, so I gave her our entire disposable income for the month to do whatever she wanted with it - including flying in all sorts of family and friends to help with my new daughter and my hellion of a son.

Go Time
After months of planning, training, and watching all my friends be successful with their elk hunts, it was finally my turn. The next post will be my journal entries for what ended up being a 14 day solo elk hunt in November in the Frank Church Wilderness.
 
Hunting Journal

*Note: I tried to redact all locations

Day 1
Temp: 34°/58°
Miles: 6.01
Elevation: +934/-479

My flight was delayed because of the weather and because a 74 year old man who has been coming back here for decades had a heart attack on the last day of his hunt, surrounded by 2 generations of his offspring. What a life. They had to make an emergency flight to pick up his gear. Fortunately, I was on the way and could go out on that run.

My starting weight was 119 lbs. My pack alone was 70. This is the heaviest pack I've carried in 140 camping/backpacking/hunting trips by a substantial margin.

The flight itself was truly incredible. I want to take my whole family on one next summer. It was the coolest thing to see all these places I’ve been hiking for years from the air.

The pilot - Walt - flew me around the north end of the strip so I could check out the [fire that was burning omitted for secrecy] fire from above. It looked surprisingly splotchy, but still smoldering in places.

As soon as we landed and unloaded my gear, Walt took off again. I was kind of surprised at how abruptly I was alone. I said a prayer and then basked in the glory of the moment, my surroundings, and my coming endeavor.

I then picked up my cooler, bear can, and gear and started off down the trail toward [campsite on the Middle Fork] campsite. 119 pounds is a lot. I barely made it the mile to camp after stopping multiple times. There, I cached my cooler and bear can, grabbed a beer, ate a snack, and said one final prayer before heading out to [my main drainage].

It was very slow going, but beautiful. I had an air of solitude and contentment the entire five mile hike. I crossed through several burns from the [ongoing] fire and again was stunned by how patchy it was. Only once did I see it still actively burning though. I also had to ford [the main creek] twice. I stripped down to my underwear and crossed shoeless. It was freezing, but welcome after the sweaty hike. The second ford was at the confluence of [main creek] with its [fork], where I noticed a ton of algae. Hoping that the hot spring could be felt all the way down here, I was disappointed when I crossed over and jumped into barely lukewarm water.

I ate lunch while I dried out. While my meal was rehydrating, I packed and redressed and started hiking up the bottom of the creek until I could find a good spot to eat. As it always seems to happen, I made it to a spot that I couldn’t easily get out of instead of a great lunch spot. I was also shocked to see a set of boot tracks going up with me.

After eating my lunch, I began to climb. The wet ash was so slippery and with this much weight I was expending a ton of effort for minimal results. I got to the base of the ridge I planned to climb up and checked the time. 16:00 - 2.5 hours until dark. I was already exhausted and knew that by the time I got up there it would probably be dark and I would miss the evening glass as well as have to look for a camp spot in the dark, I decided to make camp at the base instead.

I found a decently flat, grassy spot in a sea of soot, pitched my tent, put together the stove, and then dumped everything in except my glassing stuff before heading up the hill to find an open spot to see. I found one just in time, but glassing was fruitless. Breathtaking, but fruitless.

After dark had set, I returned to camp and stockpiled wood and filtered water. I started up the stove and - famished - ate my dinner. I tried to crash early, but I was still more excited than exhausted I suppose. Also, I’m never eating lentils again. My farts smelled worse than the fire smoke! I listened to several podcasts before crashing around ten.

Day 2
Temp: 24°/59°
Miles: 4.04
Elevation: +/-1,524

I woke up at 2:30 to stoke the fire. I was shocked it lasted 4.5 hours! I’m a big fan of this Peax stove so far. Fire benefits aside, it performs extremely well.

It started to snow before I fell back to sleep. My alarm went off at 4:45, but it was still snowing. I went back to sleep for an hour, but it was still snowing. I tried going back to sleep, but I was too excited. I made breakfast and tea and listened to more podcasts while waiting for the weather to break. It was super foggy out all morning.

By 9 I couldn’t take it anymore. I headed out through the socked-in valley towards the "hot springs". It was so slow going. It took 2 hours to go the 1.5 miles there. Soaking wet, I was hoping for the warmth of the springs to regenerate my energy, but they were nowhere to be found. I checked the waters in all the creeks and they were cold to cool, so I’m not sure where it could have been hiding.

On the way back, I wanted to climb higher to get away from the brushy bottom. I did so and came across several still active fires. It looks like the fire more than jumped the creek as this side seemed to have much more widespread burns.

I made it up to 6,500’ (camp was at 5,000) to a nice glassing ridge. It looked like higher up the mountain could have been fruitful, but I knew there’s no way I would be able to drag my camp up here. The rest of the surrounding slopes didn’t look particularly good because of snow, fires, or steepness. I stayed as long as I could, but a snowstorm was moving in and I was under packed since I had only planned on going to the hot spring. I gathered my gear and started heading back down the mountain knowing that all my offseason planning went for nought.

I returned to my tent at 15:00 completely exhausted, contemplating whether I should move camp now or in the morning. I said a prayer for guidance on what to do next and then slept on it. And slept again. And then slept some more. By the time I woke up, it was 18:00. I hurriedly went to glass what I could see from down here, but my priority needed to be getting firewood and water and drying out/cleaning my muddy/sooty gear.

I finished the chores, then restarted the fire and cooked dinner while scouring the map. Going higher from here was out, and so was following the [fork] drainage up and over into [next main drainage]. Although the area north of the "hot springs" looked elky, I could not conceivably haul 70 pounds of gear up that way. I checked north along the Middle Fork Salmon, but Walt had mentioned the [another ongoing fire] fire was still smoldering and I truly believe the only reason I’m not seeing animals in this drainage is because of the recent fires. I looked east across the Middle Fork Salmon, but there was tons of snow and not very many (accessible) elk-looking areas. South put me into the outfitter’s territory. That left going further west. I supposed that I could glass both sides of the [main drainage] valley as I moved higher along the trail. There were also a couple of interesting looking areas. Plus the added benefit of hitting up [named, but seldom visited] hot springs.

As I was cranking the stove to help dry out all my gear and listening to podcasts, I heard wolves howling so loudly that I could hear them over my headphones!! However by the time I got outside to record them they had quieted greatly and I couldn’t hear anything when I played back the video.

Day 3
Temp: 24°/58°
Miles: 5.13
Elevation: +2,028/-346

Woke up today ready to enact my plan. It took quite awhile to breakdown camp, so I did a small bit of glassing at the same time. I headed out around 9am having forgotten about daylight savings time.

It was a very long and arduous track to [next fork up the main drainage]. Fortunately, I could glass almost the entire time, so I took many breaks. I had to ford the river twice, the second time on a log that was pretty terrifying. The trail was in surprisingly fantastic condition though.

The first animals I have seen since I got out here happened to be a family of three goats. It was a super cool experience watching them for about half an hour before continuing on.

I finished the five mile approach and then stashed my extra water and food before climbing up to my glassing point/campsite. I got up here just ahead of a snowstorm and set up the tent. By the time I got everything set up, the storm had subsided. After that, I cut wood until 1700 and then went to glass for the next hour and a half.

I immediately saw 25 cows and a small spike on the same mountain I’m on at 7,200’. I watched them for quite awhile. Everything I’ve ever read says to look 500-1,000’ above the cows to find the bulls, so I glassed the tops of the basins until it was too dark to see anymore. No luck, but I’m optimistic about tomorrow. Unfortunately, I think I might need to go up to 8,500’. I’m completely exhausted today, so we’ll see how I feel tomorrow.

Oh, and the Peak Refuel Bison meal is my new favorite.

Day 4
Temp: 24°/50°
Miles: 2.73
Elevation: +/-1,617

Today was rather uneventful. I glassed for hours in the morning and saw nothing. Then I climbed down to bring up my water stash. Then I tried climbing the 2,000’ to the summit. I ended up getting cliffed out at 8,000’ and had to turn back. Such an exhausting waste of energy.

I got back to camp just as the snow storm started. I chopped down two trees for wood for the night thinking I’d be stuck for quite awhile. It was too foggy to glass at dusk, but I tried anyway. I’m really hoping this snow storm drives down the elk tomorrow.

I’m still optimistic, but homesick from spending so much time in the tent tonight. I think in two days when I go down for more water, I might hike to [named, but seldom used] hot springs to relax. Or I’ll shoot an elk tomorrow and I’ll be hoofing out the meat for the rest of the time.

I woke up at 21:30 from a huge gust of wind that blew my chimney right out of my stove! Needless to say I couldn’t get back to sleep after that. That was some serious panic. I thanked the Lord that the fire was out so that I didn't burn my hand when grabbing the chimney before it blew away or worse - melted the tent.
 
Day 5
Temp: 20°/45°
Miles: 0
Elevation: 0

What a night! I was getting probably 50mph wind gusts up on this ridge. Every hour I’d wake up to howls expecting my chimney to fly out again. I took those opportunities to restock the fire, so at least that kept going all night. Without the wind it got down to 20°.

I was up and in glassing position - outfitted in every piece of clothing I brought - by 6:30. I glassed until 8:00, but the snow was coming down so thickly that I couldn’t really see into any of the spots I suspected the elk to be.

I gotta say I’m thankful that I didn’t skimp on any cold weather gear even though the weight has severely limited my mobility. The puffy pants in particular since they work vastly better than just using my quilt as I’ve done in the past. I also probably would’ve turned back already without the stove - either from the freezing cold last night or from the total wetness from the past couple of days. Although the thing has partially melted my down pants, hat, puffy jacket, quilt, and pillow so far, I think that’s more of the tent’s fault. I have a love/hate with this tent. It’s a great weight and a good enough internal size, but with the stove and wood your gear space is greatly reduced, which makes it in-ideal for winter hunting. However, aside from winter, I don’t know when I would use it over the hammock. Maybe on a really early or long spring bear hunt. Also, the banana bread was clutch. I ate the entire load for breakfast and shaved probably 3 pounds off my pack.

All day was spent cutting firewood during the snowstorms and glassing when it cleared. I found 4 sheep, but that was all. Kind of disheartening. I really thought the weather would drive these elk down.

I’m not really sure what to do. Four days is enough time to relocate if I head back to the landing strip, but everything back there was burnt. The problem is that the elk are up high, but I don’t have the legs to get up there with all this weight. I spent a large portion of the day looking at prime north facing areas at all elevation bands and found nothing. The only thing I can draw from that is that they must be on south facing slopes right now. But when I look farther west, those mountains look way too rocky and dry. And I already came from the ones to the east. At this point I’ll wake up in the morning and glass and then come up with a game plan. I need to head down and get water at some point tomorrow as well.

A funny note: the elk poop under the stove kept catching on fire tonight and smoking me out. The whole tent smells of elk poop now.

Day 6
Temp: 14°/49°
Miles: 3.56
Elevation: +2,733/-1,050

What a day. I woke up knowing I’d need to drop 1,000’ to get water and depending on how the morning glassing went, climb up another 2,000’. The glassing was again fruitless, so I headed down to [next fork of main drainage] by 9am. The trail was so smooth after all the bushwhacking. My legs felt great downhill, so the recovery day yesterday paid off.

The creek was fast flowing and easy to fill my water, which was a major relief after the last two “springs”. The climb back up 1,000’ with 10L of water was absolutely exhausting and took way too long. I got into camp hoping to nap, but I had to get moving and couldn’t sleep anyway.

While packing, I realized I had 2 gallon bags full of trash. I was shocked I had been dragging all that around, so I built a nice little fire with the remainder of my firewood and burnt it all while I finished packing. I was very happy to have the space and weight back in my pack.

However, it was jarring how much my pack still weighed. I figured all the food would have knocked it down quite a bit, but it seemed almost unnoticeable.

What ensued was the hardest 2 mile hike I’ve ever done. 2,000’ of gain in calf deep, dry snow on top of loose rock. I didn’t even cross the top of the mountain until 17:00 - 4 hours later.

When I did, I only had 30 minutes to find a flat spot to camp before dark. The snow was so deep that that task was pretty much impossible. Where I ended up choosing was a stark reminder of why I use a hammock. I found something of an elk bed where I could lay and then pitched my tent around it, so the inside of my tent is on three distinct levels. Definitely not ideal, but I was so exhausted that it had to work.

I hurriedly pitched the tent and built the stove and then immediately lit a fire to get things started melting and drying out. I went and cut wood for the night before setting anything else up. I didn’t feel hypothermic, but I have had hypothermia enough to know I didn’t want to chance it in any way.

One other thing: with the 30 seconds of daylight I had before I got to work on camp, I DID see some tracks on the hillside across from me. I couldn’t make out much more than that, but boy does that make me excited for morning.

Day 7
Temp: 18°/63°
Miles: 3.83
Elevation: +464/-1,016

Another 5am wake up. I hiked out and around to my glassing point and was in place before first light. It was 18° and windy as hell. I was bundled up with everything I have. When the sun finally came up, I began working my way around the mountain glassing for tracks along the way.

The only tracks I found were some sort of small cat and they were everywhere. After not seeing any animals, I decided it was time to go find those cows from the other day. I climbed back up to the pass and couldn’t see into where I thought they were hiding, so I had to hike the deep, slushy snow up to the summit to a place with some sort of vantage on it. Again, skunked.

Dejected, I returned to my tent and packed, planning on moving to this great bench with fantastic views. I hiked down and all of a sudden I saw an elk track! Then fresh elk poop! As I walked I found even more elk tracks! I followed them and then I started seeing tracks going back the way I had come as well. It was very confusing, but I think these were the lost cows. Somehow they had snuck over the pass and had been hanging out on this side. It looked to me like they had fed out from the bench I intended to camp on and then fed back.

As I hiked that way trying to formulate a plan, I suddenly came across a mountain lion track! And then multiple kitten tracks as well. And these were all new because they were appearing in the freshly melted snow. After the frigid morning it had reached 64° and started melting off the snow.

I stashed my pack, grabbed my rifle, and stalked up to the dark timber where I thought the elk were bedded. I didn’t see any sign of them and decided to pull back to the end of the bench and wait until dark to see if they came out.

It was a long, freezing 2 hour wait. My feet and pants were wet from sweat and snow and the heat of the day had finally worn off. Unfortunately, the scenario did not play out like I had envisioned it in my head and my ambush failed.

After dark I went and made camp on a small, protected bench just below the main one. Focusing primarily on getting the fire started to warm me up and dry me out as I had the night before. Another day of working myself to complete exhaustion.
 
Day 8
Temp: 30°/82°
Miles: 8.23
Elevation: +1,669/-3,575

I woke up exhausted, but super excited. I got plenty of sleep for once even while waking up every 60-90 minutes to stoke the fire.

I had my plan set: climb that glassing knob at the end of the bench and glass all morning until I figured out where those elk went. I was there before the sun came up and quickly glassed all the surrounding mountain slopes. After a quick breakfast I settled in for more intense glassing.

I didn’t see any bedded elk, so I went back to where I saw the tracks yesterday. My stomach sank when I noticed 13 elk beds. These things were bedded right here in the open the day before and I didn’t see them. Even though I glassed this bench intently (I even noticed a set of those tracks but thought they were just deer). Furthermore, if I would have just been aggressive and walked to the end of the bench instead of setting an ambush, I would have noticed these and been able to spend the rest of the evening catching up to them. Instead, now the elk were a full 2 days ahead of me.

I rushed back to camp and tore it down as quickly as I could. I set off after the tracks. These things were meandering every which way, but I followed one stray with big hooves. He went up and over the knob, but I had a pretty good idea of where he was headed. I continued following his tracks and right before he got to the lower bench (bingo) several other tracks met up with his.

I set down my pack and stalked through the dark timbered bench. There were fresh tracks and rubs everywhere. The elk obviously liked this bench. I stalked painstakingly slow through the trees. Two to four steps, then stop and glass. It took over an hour to get across this bench and when I came to the other side, they had gone over the edge down to the next bench.

I hurried back to my pack and then back to the end of the bench where I could glass the lower one. I saw tracks everywhere on it, but no animals. I climbed down to it and studied the tracks.

There was such chaos here that I expected to find some beds, but surprisingly didn’t. I did, however, find more mountain lion tracks. It had come through after the elk. I reasoned out that the elk went lower off the steep side of the bench instead of the easier ridge down. They were finally out of the snow (6,500’) so it was much more difficult to track them.

I made do and crisscrossed down the steep slope. When I got to the bottom, I found a different set of mountain lion tracks with kittens! I'm starting to think it’s not wolves that are keeping the elk population down.

I had been through this area on my second day, so I knew of a dark timbered bench up ahead that the tracks were generally going towards. I ended up losing them somehow. Not sure how that was possible since it was a large herd and I had just seen them in the snow. I went left, I went right, then I went down. No sign.

I made my way to that bench I knew of to stash my pack. Grabbing just my rifle, I headed back to where I lost the trail. Of course they went back up! Through some nasty dead fall straight back up the steep slope I’d just came down. It was 16:00 and getting dark down “low”, so I decided to try to cut them off if they went towards the water.

I grabbed my pack and started out towards the creek. I ended up coming across a sheep’s skull! That was super cool. And probably ten yards from it was an elk shed. At this point, I figured it would be the only part of a bull elk I would touch this season.

I finished making my way to the creek, but never picked their trail back up. It was 16:45 now with sunset at 17:20. I wanted to get at least one of the fords done tonight especially since this side of the river was all burnt up and had no good camping spots. I hurried as best I could towards [the main drainage], but the mountain had other ideas than a speedy exit.

I got to the creek right at sunset, stripped down to my undies, and crossed. Freezing, yet satisfying after all the side and down hilling all day. I redressed and hiked down to the other ford where I knew of a nice campsite. As soon as I regained the trail, cougar tracks AGAIN! I followed them in reverse the 1.5 miles of very fresh snow to the next ford.

I was mentally numb from exhaustion, cold, and defeat. Setting up camp was again a battle. I powered through it though and got a hot meal as soon as I could, which greatly improved my spirits. I set up the tent backwards tonight - sleeping feet first instead and it was incredible how much more room there was for my gear! It was mostly inaccessible, but it all fit nicely.

I finished the night by drinking my elk victory beer I had been lugging around the entire trip. I had no elk to celebrate - just the consolation prize of knowing I had done something extremely tough and hadn’t quit any of the times that I wanted to.

I glanced up towards [the main mountain I'd been climbing up and down the past week] and snapped a picture of the summit glowing orange in the last light. Incredible to think I left from there this morning and had come down 3,500 feet. At least tomorrow I get to sleep in.

Day 9
Temp: 15°/56°
Miles: 9.51
Elevation: +267/-447

And sleep in I did, not climbing out of my tent until 9:20. I packed while trying to stay warm. It was crazy that the coldest feeling night was the last night at the lowest elevation. Probably from being so close to the creek. It didn’t help that I made the conscious decision to not keep the fire going when I woke up for the first time at 0300 (6 hours of sleep!!) and couldn’t get back to sleep after that so had to restart it anyway.

I walked the quarter mile to the ford. This time, since the water was so low, I didn’t take my pants off and just rolled them up and crossed barefoot. Holy hell was that water cold, but there’s something invigorating about freezing your ass off first thing in the morning. Maybe there’s something to this ice bath thing.

After that, it was a quick 3 miles back to [established campsite on the Middle Fork Salmon] campsite. I spent the next few hours grouse hunting unsuccessfully. These guys were way more skittish than the grouse I’m used to. Otherwise, I’d be bringing home a half dozen or more.

I made it back to the landing strip where I met the first people I’d seen in 9 days: Peter and Toby from Georgia, and Josh from Arlington, Washington. I chatted with them for about an hour and caught up on the election and other current events. Gave them some tips and traded stories.

They headed up the mountain for an evening glassing session and I went and set up my camp just down from them. Then I crossed the bridge to grouse hunt the other side. I came up empty and decided to explore around the landing strip.

I then grabbed dinner and glassed the evening in the middle of the landing strip. Still didn’t see any deer. I came back to camp and started a fire only to realize I hadn’t grabbed enough wood, so I headed back to another campsite where I saw some stashed. Toby had come back early and I invited him to join my fire for awhile. He said he’d head over once he finished his camp chores (he never showed up).

I spent the rest of my last night in front of the fire listening to the wolves howling like crazy right across the river from me. The second time that has happened to me in the Frank Church Wilderness. It’s so cool, but man does it put you on edge.

Day 10
Temp: 22°/45°
Miles: 0
Elevation: 0

Howling all night long!! Enough to wake me up and enough to invade my dreams! At one point I ripped the seam of my quilt from kicking at a dream wolf.

I ate breakfast while packing. It felt way colder than 26°. About the time I finished and was planning a morning grouse hunt, Walt texted me back and said he’d be there in 45 minutes. So I finished packing up camp and headed to the landing strip.

Walt is a man of few words, but it was nice to have a conversation with a familiar face. He informed me that we needed to head up to Thomas Creek to help haul out some deer meat.

We took off and headed northeast following low along the river. I absolutely loved flying low over the treetops with multiple 0 degree turns. It gave me an opportunity to look for game, though I only saw trails.

We came into Thomas Creek Landing Strip and were welcomed by 6 (!) other airplanes. During the thirty minutes or so that we were there a couple more came and went. The camp we pulled up to had 4 dead deer. Indeed, the whole area looked like great deer habitat. I chatted for a few minutes with the other hunters before it was time to take off again.

The flight back was just as incredible as the flight in. I had this feeling that I was leaving my home, even though I couldn’t wait to get back to my family. We landed, took care of payment, gave my thanks, offered him the rest of my beer, and then headed home.

Final low: 26°
 
My wife, who is the best wife that has ever existed, was so gracious that when I got back she told me to "get my ass back out there and don't come home until I've killed something". I was genuinely stunned because my hunting obsession historically has put a lot of pressure on our marriage and she had just given birth a month ago. She knew how hard I had worked this season just to come up empty handed and didn't want me to fail. I drove back to Eagle, got a shower, restocked on food, cleaned everything, tried to get ahold of the biologist again, and ultimately threw a dart at the map and flew back in the next day.

Day 11
Temp: 30°/47°
Miles: 8.55
Elevation: +176/-579

We’re baaaaaaacckk! 5:15 wake up and at the airport by 6:45. Walt said we had a small window at first light, so we hurriedly loaded the plane with tons of Amazon packages (Wednesdays are mail days) and threw my gear on top.

What an incredible flight. I say that every time, but it’s such a mind blowing experience. Especially flying over places I’ve hiked and driven and seeing it from above.

After landing, I said goodbye to Walt and stashed my extra food and pistol at the back of the landing strip. It was a mile to the trailhead and along the way I met some truck hunters from St. Anthony named Kevin and Cade. Seems like very nice potato farmers.

After that, it was finally on to the trail. It was well kept and very flat, but strikingly beautiful. Very steep and imposing cliffs all around. I made it the 7 miles to the hot springs and discovered another tent at the best one. I moved along, planning to camp atop [named] Ridge (which I later renamed to Elk Shit Ridge). Stocking up water first, I attempted to make the brutal climb, but my poor, little knees couldn’t handle it. Defeated, I returned to the last hot springs and set up camp.

I then spent about an hour in the hottest water I’ve ever sat in. It was painful, but healing in a way. I returned to my hammock (so thankful to be back in it again) and came up with a game plan for the next day before crashing.

Day 12
Temp: 30°/47°
Miles: 6.71
Elevation: +3,170/-3,170

Up at 5:30 and started up the mountain. 1,000 ft in less than half a mile!! I was glassing by first light, but it was so cold I started a fire to keep me company.

I glassed there until 11:00 and didn’t see anything, so I headed the rest of the way up - another 1,700 feet in about a mile. An absolutely brutal climb. I was shocked how well my legs held up. Along this portion I renamed it to Elk Shit Ridge because the entire ridgeline was carpeted with elk shit. It was the most amount of elk poop I’ve ever seen before. I also found the perfect, little deer shed for my 3 year old, Thomas. If I’m not successful shooting an elk, I think he’ll be happy enough with this.

I was very excited when I got to the summit and started glassing along the top of the ridge. I saw several sets of tracks along the top of the ridge. I packed my glassing gear and loaded my rifle and began the stalk.

As I moved along the top the tracks revealed themselves as deer and wolf. Shockingly, there was also a set of human tracks that only went one direction. I hiked about 3/4 of a mile along the top of the ridge and then glassed the remainder and didn’t see anymore tracks. So I glassed the north side of the ridge before turning back to the first summit.

I spent the rest of the evening glassing across to the south ridges that looked prime for elk. From 15:30-18:30 I glassed those slopes and only saw a single, nice buck. It was a kick in the gut to not see anything after all that work. On top of that, I didn’t have anywhere to go the next day. If I hadn’t seen anything from up top on any of the surrounding ridges, then there wasn’t anywhere else to go around here that I could get to in a single day.

Dejected again, I headed back down the mountain via headlamp. The full moon was incredibly bright. So much so that if not for the treacherous route I would’ve turned off the headlamp. When I got down to the last 1,000’ climb, I noticed two headlamps from the tent down by the hot springs looking up at me. They were less than a mile away, but so far down.

I eventually made it down and returned to camp. I was so tired I only stayed up long enough to eat dinner.

Day 13
Temp: 25°/43°
Miles: 15.79
Elevation: +566/-1,546

I had my alarm set for 5:30 as my plan for the day was to completely clear out and head towards [landing strip 20 miles away] landing strip. I literally couldn’t get up so I slept for another hour. I still couldn’t get up, so I snoozed until 8:30. It was still so cold out that I was very slow to pack up camp.

I had a long day ahead of me. 15 mostly flat miles, but with all this hunting gear. The geography was striking. So rocky, cliffy, and dry. Absolutely gorgeous, but certainly not elk country. I saw probably half a dozen different mule deer though.

The snow was coming down pretty hard by 14:00. At one point, I found a giant ram down on the river drinking. I took lots of footage of him climbing back up the sheer rock wall. Basically everything between mile 10 and 16 had no hope of finding anything other than sheep or goats. Just completely vertical terrain.

I was dying, but the thought of the hot spring at the end kept me going. I walked past them looking for a campsite, but it looked great. Nice, gravel-bottomed and probably 20’ long. I found a spot about a quarter mile away for camp and started setting it up when a fella named Caleb from Orofino showed up. I told him I’d meet him at the hot spring when I was finished setting up.

We sat in the tub for a couple of hours chitchatting. It felt so good after such an exhausting day. It was even cooler because it was still snowing. He was a pretty cool guy. He worked at a fish and game hatchery. He left first, and I wasn’t too far behind him. I had knots to work out of both of my shoulders first, but I was back in my hammock before 20:00.

Day 14
Temp: 32°/36°
Miles: .92
Elevation: +360/-383

I had a great night of sleep. I woke up at 5 and snuggled in for another hour. By 6:30, I decided to go have breakfast in the hot spring. I headed down there and jumped in while my food cooked. What a great, relaxing way to start the day. Until…

I got an InReach message at 8:00 saying Walt would be at the strip at 8:30. I jumped out and got dressed as fast as possible and ran down the trail to pack camp. I haphazardly threw everything in my pack and ran with all my gear to the landing strip. I had heard his plane land about 10 minutes before I finished packing. I made it the half mile or so just in time as Walt was looking around for me.

We headed down to Mahoney to switch planes. I would fly out with George while Walt flew to some other destinations. I talked with a bunch of the folks around the strip who were packing out. Not as many deer this time around for some reason.

I put my pack on George’s plane and started glassing while they continued to pack on the other patrons. Of course, the last day as I’m boarding the plane I find a herd of 50 or so elk in the first spot I looked. Everything about this hunt was just a kick in the nuts. Another great experience in a spoiled life, but no animals for me. I boarded the plane for another incredible flight out feeling more of a sense of accomplishment than of letdown.
 
So, there it is. If you took the time to read my entire book then thank you and I hope you got something out of it. You can hunt 14 days, hiking 83 miles, and covering 37,500' of elevation and not find a single, legal bull in the Frank Church Wilderness. I am happily back to hunting the September Middle Fork tag again this year. A lot of my scouting this year has been around areas that I flew into on this hunt, checking out spots that looked great from afar. So far after scouting those places... I'm very glad I stayed on my mountain.

A few other take-aways
  1. The snow didn't play as big of a role as I was expecting that time of year. It snowed a lot and often, but wouldn't stick for long. I don't think I would have changed my plan/gear much considering the safety of having extra warmth, but maybe something for someone else to consider since this was the main detail I agonized over leading up to my hunt
  2. As I neared the end of the first stage of the trip, one of my notes from the biologist really stuck out to me. And I hope anyone planning on hunting the Frank heeds this: there are 500 bulls in the Middle Fork. Not legal bulls, but bulls. In 2.3 million acres. If you don't math good, well it's not very good math anyway. If you want to come do this in the later season, your best bet is to pray to God for a giant snowstorm to drive the elk down. You can make your own luck, have an exceptionally detailed and thought out plan, and work your ass off all you want, but with elk densities like that luck is going to be the main factor that decides your fate. That's a really hard thing for some guys to hear. Myself foremost among them.
  3. Every season I learn so much from elk hunting. And I never seem to run out of new lessons even after all these years. This season I definitely didn't learn that much about elk, but man did I learn some things about myself. I've done many long, solo, thru hikes of all sorts of places - the Pyrenees, Denali, Iceland, literally thousands of miles in Washington and Idaho, all over Europe, the Appalachians, and the Rockies. Two different days on this trip I produced the hardest physical effort I've ever given. There was one day of 6,000 feet of elevation in 6 miles. Just an absolutely brutal workout for it to lead to nothing. The loneliness is what normally gets me. There's a hump between day 3 and day 5 usually that I really start to feel it. A trick I did this time was I did not look at a single photo on my phone the entire 14 days. But overall, I was just so thankful every moment of every day for the ability to climb those mountains, to have the opportunity to be out there, and to view the majesty of God's creation. Being in the moment constantly for 2 weeks is the thing that kept me out of the danger zone of wanting to be with my family. Concentrate on the task at hand and don't dwell on thoughts of warmth, comfort, family, and the other things you desire, because you spend the other 50 weeks a year just wanting to be back out there anyway.
 
Man, great write up. Goes to show how hard some areas truly are. I have lost my fair share of sanity in the Frank and wouldn’t trade it for the world.
 
Man, great write up. Goes to show how hard some areas truly are. I have lost my fair share of sanity in the Frank and wouldn’t trade it for the world.
Thank you 🙏 I feel the same way. It kicks my ass multiple times a year, but I just can't stay away. It's like a puzzle that's so hard to crack and I can't just put it down and walk away and hunt 39 like a normal potato person
 
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