First trad bow

[JStol5]

Hey all,
Looking for suggestions for my first traditional bow. I’ve gotten a little bored shooting compound and I think this could really be the ticket.

Thinking a TD recurve might be a good place to start. My local place has PSE Nighthawks but I was considering ordering used off RMSG. Not looking to spend more than $250. Thank you.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Hey all,
Looking for suggestions for my first traditional bow. I’ve gotten a little bored shooting compound and I think this could really be the ticket.

Thinking a TD recurve might be a good place to start. My local place has PSE Nighthawks but I was considering ordering used off RMSG. Not looking to spend more than $250. Thank

3 rivers has some complete sets for pretty affordable prices, I have one of their edge hyper bows I’d sell you for a hundred bucks if you want it.

The black hunter bows on eBay get decent reviews too.

 

[Jagger0502]

I bought a Black Hunter for my wife with 30 lb limbs and really considered getting heavier limbs to hunt with it myself. They are under 150 and worth every penny. Plus you can get additional limbs and go up in weight as you get used to it.

 

[butcherboy]

My advice would be to buy a really nice custom longbow. Sell after a year or so at a discounted price when you get frustrated. I would buy it as long as it’s a Stalker Coyote or a Toelke.

In all seriousness, going with RMSG isn’t a bad way to go or the black hunter off of eBay.

 

[Rob5589]

Southwest Archery. I have two, nice shooting bows, quality build, budget friendly.

64" Spyder XL Takedown Recurve Bow | Takedown Bows | Southwest Archery

The Southwest Archery Spyder XL Takedown Recurve Bow is simply a stretched version of the original Spyder. With an overall length of 64” this bow is designed to accommodate archers with draw lengths that exceed 28”. The Spyder XL utilizes the exact same riser as the 62" Spyder but simply offers...

www.southwestarcheryusa.com

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Southwest Archery. I have two, nice shooting bows, quality build, budget friendly.

64" Spyder XL Takedown Recurve Bow | Takedown Bows | Southwest Archery

The Southwest Archery Spyder XL Takedown Recurve Bow is simply a stretched version of the original Spyder. With an overall length of 64” this bow is designed to accommodate archers with draw lengths that exceed 28”. The Spyder XL utilizes the exact same riser as the 62" Spyder but simply offers...

www.southwestarcheryusa.com

That looks identical to the one I got from 3 rivers.

 

[Boxerboxer]

Southwest Archery. I have two, nice shooting bows, quality build, budget friendly.

64" Spyder XL Takedown Recurve Bow | Takedown Bows | Southwest Archery

The Southwest Archery Spyder XL Takedown Recurve Bow is simply a stretched version of the original Spyder. With an overall length of 64” this bow is designed to accommodate archers with draw lengths that exceed 28”. The Spyder XL utilizes the exact same riser as the 62" Spyder but simply offers...

www.southwestarcheryusa.com

This was my first bow and I'd recommend it. Southwest customer service is solid, had a small problem with a riser and they got it replaced quickly for me. If you draw on the shorter side you could go with the shorter Spyder for a 62" bow. They also have longbow limbs for that riser if you wanted to try a longbow instead. I could have hunted with my Spyder XL indefinitely no problem, but ended up ordering a custom longbow from a local guy, only reason I'm not using the Spyder anymore.

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

I second the Black Hunter. It’s a bow that punches way, way above its weight.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

A 3-piece takedown is the way to go for a beginner so you can start with very light limbs and work your way up. I personally started off shooting a Galaxy (formerly Samick) Sage with 35 lb limbs for a few months then switched to 45 lb limbs for hunting. Some shops have a free limb swap program for whatever make/model of beginner bow they carry. Most of the popular entry-level TD recurves are virtually identical (Fleetwood Edge, Galaxy/Samick Sage, OMP Smoky Mountain, PSE Nighthawk, Southwest Spyder), so if your local shop offers free limb swaps for a PSE Nighthawk, I would take them up on it to keep costs down while you're getting started and working your draw weight up. If they don't offer free limb swaps, I would consider spending a little bit more and piecing together an entry-level ILF bow. You could pair a Galaxy Explorer riser with whatever cheap set of Olympic-style limbs strikes your fancy for around $200 total. An ILF bow would give you far more options on limb weight/length/material/quality than any of the aforementioned non-ILF beginner bows.

 

[JStol5]

Thanks all. My preference with buying one locally is them being able to put in nocking points and getting replacement strings/limbs if needed..

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Thanks all. My preference with buying one locally is them being able to put in nocking points and getting replacement strings/limbs if needed..

Having a good shop nearby to help out is always a benefit, but changing strings/limbs on a single string bow and installing nocking points are easy DIY tasks.

 

[JStol5]

Having a good shop nearby to help out is always a benefit, but changing strings/limbs on a single string bow and installing nocking points are easy DIY tasks.

Got it. I’ve heard great things about the Sage series. If I get local I’m either getting a 35 or 40lb nighthawk. I shoot 70 right now with a compound, not trying to be a hero here and pick up anything more than 40lbs on a recurve.

 

[Jagger0502]

Got it. I’ve heard great things about the Sage series. If I get local I’m either getting a 35 or 40lb nighthawk. I shoot 70 right now with a compound, not trying to be a hero here and pick up anything more than 40lbs on a recurve.

If you go with a bow that you can get additional limbs for you can start off light and always get additional limbs to go heavier. If you plan to shoot regularly I can tell you that a 70 lb compound and going to 40 lbs is good to practice to get your form right. I think you will likely want to increase the weight and set yourself up with heavier limbs to hunt with. I have two bows with multiple sets of limbs, 45 lb/60 lb longbow and 38 lb/ 48lbs recurve. 60 lbs is a lot of weight to handle and I shoot almost daily to keep up with it but that is my primary hunting bow. 45-55 is the norm for hunting. Depending on how often you plan to shoot will determine what limbs you should go with. If you plan to shoot a lot you can get away with 50-60+ lbs, plan to shoot here and there, stick with 40-45 lbs even for hunting.

If you really think you will stick with it get the tools to do all the work yourself, knock plyer is a good start and learn how to tune your own bow and arrows. Everything you change, and you will change a lot of things getting started, will change how you shoot your bow and learning to do your own tuning really saves you the money and time from having a shop do the work for you when the tools will pay for themselves and be much more convenient.

Plan to be frustrated the first few weeks and focus on your anchor points, form and what feels comfortable and manageable. Tune yourself some arrows which is a big task in some cases…once you get it all dialed in get an extra string and tune that one as well and have one as a backup. Just going thru the process will teach you a lot about your bow and it can be fun.

 

[Rob5589]

Thanks all. My preference with buying one locally is them being able to put in nocking points and getting replacement strings/limbs if needed..

Both are diy tasks. Moving the nock is part of the tuning process. There's literally nothing that a shop can do that you won't be able to with a single string bow

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Both are diy tasks. Moving the nock is part of the tuning process. There's literally nothing that a shop can do that you won't be able to with a single string bow

This is 100% true, I got some basic set on ebay that came with a nock tool, a bunch of nocks and a square. maybe came with something else too like wax but I never used it. The tools in that kit have been fine and I have had no issues tuning up bows.

Chopping up arrows and stuff is a bit different but not much, just more tools.

 

[Te Hopo]

I'm a big fan of my Black Hunter recurves, I practice with a 25lb bow, hunt with my 40lb.

Initially I was just using the 40lb, but I took people advice and got a really light practice bow and my shooting ability has leaped ahead.

10/10 I would say get some light limbs to start with

 

[Ryan911009]

For a starter bow and price wise, you can’t go wrong with a black hunter…I bought one to bowfish with and use it as my main hunting bow quite a bit.

 

[TX_Diver]

Call Rocky Mountain specialty gear and talk to them. They have a program where you can trade in limbs as you go up in poundage as you progress I think

 

[Mrshort]

Call Rocky Mountain specialty gear and talk to them. They have a program where you can trade in limbs as you go up in poundage as you progress I think

What he said! I encourage anyone I can to patronize RMSGear. They're incredibly good people. Even if you could buy it elsewhere, buy it from them.

 

[cck311]

Both are diy tasks. Moving the nock is part of the tuning process. There's literally nothing that a shop can do that you won't be able to with a single string bow

And it's actually very simple as well. Don't be intimidated by the DIY aspects of trad. There's tons of good YouTube videos to help you learn what you need to know. Watch the videos and apply what you learn. A little bit of practice and you get the hang of it quick.