First time reloader! Will be reloading 300 Win Mag. Recommendations for a great Elk hunting load to start my load development with?

[Rayland]

Below is my setup if anyone is curious. Any tips/suggestions are very appreciated!

Frankford Arsenal Rotary Tumbler and Accessories with Media Separator, Cleaning Essentials
(by Frankford Arsenal

• Forster Ultra 300 Winchester Magnum Micrometer Bullet Seating Die


• RCBS Deluxe Scale Check Weight Set


• RCBS ChargeMaster Link Digital Powder Scale and Dispenser


• Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Perfect Seat Hand Priming Tool


• RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Single Stage Reloading Press


• Hornady Digital Caliper


• Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Complete Set with 14 Inserts


• L.E. Wilson Micrometer Case Trimmer Kit Stainless Steel


• Forster Bench Rest 300 Winchester Magnum Full Length Sizing Die

 

[Timplant]

I came up with a great load using 200gr Accubonds and H4350 out of a 22'' gun running 2815, should kill anything dead I need too as far as I can shoot!

 

[SDHNTR]

You probably aren’t gonna like your press mounted under that cabinet. You also need manual balance scale to double check that charge master periodically.

Also, if you aren’t aware how headspace is measured on belted Magnum cartridges you may want to study up. In most factory chambers there is a country mile of space in front of the shoulders because they headspace off the belt. You will probably need several firings before the shoulder is fully grown and can be bumped back reliably.

As for a good load, no one can tell you this. Every barrel and every chamber is different. Consults a good reloading manual, start low and work up slowly and safely you will find your own sweet spot.

 

[Bearlodge10]

Set-up looks good. If you are anything like me, it will be cluttered up with all sorts of additional tools, trinkets, and trash before too long.
I don't reload for the .300 Winny, but if your rifle has a particular brand of ammo and bullet weight, it shoots well. I would suggest you start there. Focus on the bullet weight and velocity numbers to start, and then find your load data in the correct loading manuals. I cross-reference at least two different books or sources to get my starting loads. I also try to find like bullets that are cheaper to do my ladder work-ups (Speer hot-core, factory seconds, etc), then use the premium bullets sparingly for load development and hunting specific uses.
If you are truly starting from scratch, then I suggest deciding on a bullet weight range to focus on as your goal. If uses are only elk, then probably 180-200 grains and a more premium bullet. Follow the same strategy as listed above.
Best Wishes, it is a fun rabbit hole to go down.

 

[dallen]

H1000 and Berger 215’s are a pretty easy button for the WM. My loads settled in at 75.1 grain of powder, CCI 250, Berger 215’s set at .025 off and shooting at 2884 fps. It’s a tack driver and has yet to have an elk take more than a couple steps before tipping over.

 

[Rayland]

You probably aren’t gonna like your press mounted under that cabinet. You also need manual balance scale to double check that charge master periodically.

Also, if you aren’t aware how headspace is measured on belted Magnum cartridges you may want to study up. In most factory chambers there is a country mile of space in front of the shoulders because they headspace off the belt. You will probably need several firings before the shoulder is fully grown and can be bumped back reliably.

As for a good load, no one can tell you this. Every barrel and every chamber is different. Consults a good reloading manual, start low and work up slowly and safely you will find your own sweet spot.

The press won’t actually be located there. I’m using an Inline Fabrication Quick Change system for my press and case trimmer. The bracket on the wall is just a storage mount for whichever tool isn't currently in use. Here is a photo of the press mounted for reference.

I appreciate the advice and will definitely read up on headspace; I have the Lyman 50th Edition manual to use as a reference. I wasn't aware of the requirement for a manual balance scale, but that makes sense. I did buy some check weights—are those sufficient for now?

 

[Rayland]

Set-up looks good. If you are anything like me, it will be cluttered up with all sorts of additional tools, trinkets, and trash before too long.
I don't reload for the .300 Winny, but if your rifle has a particular brand of ammo and bullet weight, it shoots well. I would suggest you start there. Focus on the bullet weight and velocity numbers to start, and then find your load data in the correct loading manuals. I cross-reference at least two different books or sources to get my starting loads. I also try to find like bullets that are cheaper to do my ladder work-ups (Speer hot-core, factory seconds, etc), then use the premium bullets sparingly for load development and hunting specific uses.
If you are truly starting from scratch, then I suggest deciding on a bullet weight range to focus on as your goal. If uses are only elk, then probably 180-200 grains and a more premium bullet. Follow the same strategy as listed above.
Best Wishes, it is a fun rabbit hole to go down.

Appreciate the advice!

Do you have a recommendation for a second book? I currently have the Lyman’s 50th edition.

 

[sierracharlie338]

H1000 and Berger 215’s are a pretty easy button for the WM. My loads settled in at 75.1 grain of powder, CCI 250, Berger 215’s set at .025 off and shooting at 2884 fps. It’s a tack driver and has yet to have an elk take more than a couple steps before tipping over.

Bingo. This is all the info you need.

 

[SDHNTR]

The press won’t actually be located there. I’m using an Inline Fabrication Quick Change system for my press and case trimmer. The bracket on the wall is just a storage mount for whichever tool isn't currently in use. Here is a photo of the press mounted for reference.

I appreciate the advice and will definitely read up on headspace; I have the Lyman 50th Edition manual to use as a reference. I wasn't aware of the requirement for a manual balance scale, but that makes sense. I did buy some check weights—are those sufficient for now?

Gotcha. Thats pretty slick. Personally, I would not reload using an electronic scale without a balance beam too, but that’s just me.

 

[Bearlodge10]

Appreciate the advice!

Do you have a recommendation for a second book? I currently have the Lyman’s 50th edition.

I have several reloading manuals (Nosler, Hornady, Speer)... These days, I use the load data I can find online for specific powders and bullets. I screenshot and print them so I have hard copies in the back of my reloading log.
I only use the Lyman book for shotshell recipes. I like the Hornady manual because that is what I shot for years, but I would go with whatever bullet-specific manual you think you will most likely load.

 

[CHWine]

I've loaded 7mag and 300 win for years. H1000 and H4831sc have been good to me. I prefer 180 accubonds for the .300.

 

[nortac]

IF you have a 1:10 twist in the 300 you might have trouble with the 200+ grain bullets stabilizing.
My favorite load for the 300WM has been 180 Accubonds with H1000 at 79.0 grains. It is a winning combo for sure.

 

[Sadie]

If you buy brass and Peterson long is available I'd use it. Holders annual manual is a good reference.

 

[Elkslut]

Being able to move you press is a cool idea with limited space. I would recommend a cartridge comparator set, to check your brass when sizing. I think a hand primer tool is the best option because you get a feel of the condition of your primer pockets. Don't risk your hunt on a loose or questionable primer pocket, mark the brass and shoot those at the range.
It's tedious and enjoyable at the same time. Don't load powder if you are having drinks.
My 300 win likes 180g Speer BTSP with 71 grains of IMR4350. 2925 FPS.
An alternative to that load would be 75 grains of H4831SC.
My buddy liked Berger 200.20x bullets with H1000, can't remember the charge weight tho.

 

[Rayland]

Being able to move you press is a cool idea with limited space. I would recommend a cartridge comparator set, to check your brass when sizing. I think a hand primer tool is the best option because you get a feel of the condition of your primer pockets. Don't risk your hunt on a loose or questionable primer pocket, mark the brass and shoot those at the range.
It's tedious and enjoyable at the same time. Don't load powder if you are having drinks.
My 300 win likes 180g Speer BTSP with 71 grains of IMR4350. 2925 FPS.
An alternative to that load would be 75 grains of H4831SC.
My buddy liked Berger 200.20x bullets with H1000, can't remember the charge weight tho.

I appreciate the advice!

I actually picked up the attached bullet comparator set and hand primer. Good advice on the hand primer tip, though—I never considered that!

A lot of people seem to really like H1000; I think I’ll try that and your IMR4350. I’ll probably give the Accubond 180s and the BTSPs a shot, maybe even the Berger 215s. Between all of those, I should be able to find the right load for my rifle, I hope! I’ll be sure to post some follow-up when I find my round.

 

[Rayland]

I appreciate the advice!

I actually picked up the attached bullet comparator set and hand primer. Good advice on the hand primer tip, though—I never considered that!

A lot of people seem to really like H1000; I think I’ll try that and your IMR4350. I’ll probably give the Accubond 180s and the BTSPs a shot, maybe even the Berger 215s. Between all of those, I should be able to find the right load for my rifle, I hope! I’ll be sure to post some follow-up when I find my round.

I just realized bullet and cartridge competitors are different. I actually don’t have a cartridge comparator set.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

215 berger is a very well known elk bullet in 300 win mag, broz has been talking about it forever. I wouldn't be shy about using an eld or a tmk either.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Also, 4350 does not work very well in a charge master until you do the primal rights straw mod and reprogramming

 

[Chase4566]

I just realized bullet and cartridge competitors are different. I actually don’t have a cartridge comparator set.

I still don’t have a headspace comparator, and I’ve been loading for my 300wm for a bit now. The bullet comparator is for sure a solid tool. Always good to know where you are in relation to the lands of your rifle, and playing with searing depth can make huge changes on how a load shoots.

The headspace is much more useful with something like a belted magnum. Once it’s fire formed to your chamber, being able to set that shoulder back just as much as needed really helps extend brass life. I have so much once fired brass that I bought, that I just load it three times and toss it so I have not worried about bumping the shoulder. It shoots great on a full length size, so I just keep that constant and the rifle shoots well. Soon I will get a headspace comparator though and start bumping the shoulder a couple thousandths and hopefully it shoots just as good or maybe even improves a smidge. Brass life should improve too.

Someone mentioned the Peterson 300wm LONG brass if you are buying brand new brass. It’s a solid option that will keep that initial huge brass stretch to a minimum. Additional bonus is it’s really good quality brass.

 

[wind gypsy]

Also, 4350 does not work very well in a charge master until you do the primal rights straw mod and reprogramming

There are 3d printed tidbids for this too. I bought a brass insert off forum classifieds a long time ago for same purpose.