First bow advise

[Superdoo]

Seeing as how the OP got his bow and I'm in the same boat, I'm going to Hijack this thread a bit.
I've never owned a bow in my 37 years. The last time I shot a bow was in middle school. All of my friends are rifle hunters. I'm 6'2" with a measured draw length of 31"
I have the ability to save up and buy nice things rather quickly, but I hesitate to spend more than $1200 on a setup. I can't ell you why I settle on that number, but it just feels right.
My only local option for a bow purchase is Scheels. I spoke with a board member of the local Bowman club and was told that Scheels does have one guy he recommends who really knows his stuff.
I went in and we talked through bows and accessories for a couple hours. Below are the take aways from that meeting:
-He thinks that the buy once cry once mentality on a bow is the only way to go.
-He said going cheaper on accessories would be better than cheaping out on a bow.
-He says the 1200 and up bows are much easier to tune than the cheapies ($700 and below).
-He said if I decided I hated it and wanted to sell off a setup I'd take a bath with either a cheap or high dollar setup.
-Whisker biscuit rests are dead, because they can't hold an arrow stable enough with the high performance of new bows.
-He's thinking I would end up with a $1200 bow and another $400 in accessories.
-The top two brands they carry are Hoyt and Mathews.

I'm left at a crossroads...
I can agree that having a bow that's easier to tune is a benefit. Especially if he's correct and fixed broadheads will require some tuning after practicing with field points. But do I really "care" enough about the once or twice a year that I would need to bring it in to be tuned?
I like new things. Who doesn't! But I'm also the guy who bought a stainless Tikka T3X because it won't require legitimate upkeep and I view the tupperware stock as a benefit because it's light and cheap.
We can argue about the nuances of my viewpoints expressed above, but they are provided as a reference point to give you all some insight into my mentality and where I derive value in items.

I've not written off buying a used bow, but I've been looking and it is tough to find one with a higher draw length. I also get concerned, because well, I don't have a good grasp on the subject at all.

Anybody got any wise words for me?

 

[BryanL]

I ended up going with a cheaper used bow that met my specs (from Archery Talk classifieds) and then picked up quality accessories and then bare shaft tuning and "handloading" the arrows. My research led to similar points that yours did. Consistently, I know that people tend to kill animals with all kinds of bows. I decided to invest in the quality arrows and broadheads and accessories and equated it to buying a Tikka and getting a nice Leupold Scope with quality rings and quality handloads.

 

[MOwhitetail]

Seeing as how the OP got his bow and I'm in the same boat, I'm going to Hijack this thread a bit.
I've never owned a bow in my 37 years. The last time I shot a bow was in middle school. All of my friends are rifle hunters. I'm 6'2" with a measured draw length of 31"
I have the ability to save up and buy nice things rather quickly, but I hesitate to spend more than $1200 on a setup. I can't ell you why I settle on that number, but it just feels right.
My only local option for a bow purchase is Scheels. I spoke with a board member of the local Bowman club and was told that Scheels does have one guy he recommends who really knows his stuff.
I went in and we talked through bows and accessories for a couple hours. Below are the take aways from that meeting:
-He thinks that the buy once cry once mentality on a bow is the only way to go.
-He said going cheaper on accessories would be better than cheaping out on a bow.
-He says the 1200 and up bows are much easier to tune than the cheapies ($700 and below).
-He said if I decided I hated it and wanted to sell off a setup I'd take a bath with either a cheap or high dollar setup.
-Whisker biscuit rests are dead, because they can't hold an arrow stable enough with the high performance of new bows.
-He's thinking I would end up with a $1200 bow and another $400 in accessories.
-The top two brands they carry are Hoyt and Mathews.

I'm left at a crossroads...
I can agree that having a bow that's easier to tune is a benefit. Especially if he's correct and fixed broadheads will require some tuning after practicing with field points. But do I really "care" enough about the once or twice a year that I would need to bring it in to be tuned?
I like new things. Who doesn't! But I'm also the guy who bought a stainless Tikka T3X because it won't require legitimate upkeep and I view the tupperware stock as a benefit because it's light and cheap.
We can argue about the nuances of my viewpoints expressed above, but they are provided as a reference point to give you all some insight into my mentality and where I derive value in items.

I've not written off buying a used bow, but I've been looking and it is tough to find one with a higher draw length. I also get concerned, because well, I don't have a good grasp on the subject at all.

Anybody got any wise words for me?

One thing to keep in mind about Scheels is the guys who work there are paid on commission. That’s not to say they don’t know their stuff, because a lot of them do, but they also know how to get you to buy the more expensive bow.

As far as what he told you, a lot of that is true. Drop away rests are the way to go, you’ll take a bath selling a bow whether it’s expensive or not, buying cheap accessories isn’t a bad idea if you’re going to cheap out on something because they’re easier to upgrade down the road which is definitely something you’ll want to do. I wouldn’t agree that the more expensive bows are easier to tune. That’s probably just him trying to upsell you.

My opinion would be similar to what a lot of guys have said. New, old stock is a good way to go. The bows don’t change that much from year to year despite what the manufacturers would like to tell you.

If tuning is a big concern, look into Bowtech. They make good bows and with the deadlock cams tuning is as easy as turning a screw. Not sure if your local Scheels carries them but mine does.

Hoyt and Mathews are the biggest names in archery but neither are perfect. Mathews biggest selling point always seems to be being “dead in the hand” or vibration free after the shot. Not sure why that makes a difference but they marketed it well enough to make it a selling point. I’ve never owned a Mathews so I can’t talk much about them, but I can say Hoyts quality control and customer service has gone way down lately. I know them trying to produce bows in the middle of a material shortage is their excuse for the poor QC but there really is no excuse for poor customer service. That being said, they make some great bows which is why I’ve always found myself shooting one of them.

At this point, every company makes a good bow. If they didn’t, they wouldn’t survive. Find one that works for you and fits your budget. Don’t let the salesman talk you into buying something you can’t afford. If you really want to go into it with the buy once, cry once mentality, you should probably up your budget (8-900 for the bow, 200 for the sight, 150 for the rest, 150 for arrows and broadheads, 150 for a release). I’d avoid used bows if possible because it’s hard to know how they’ve been treated but used accessories (sight, rest, release, stabilizer) from the marketplace here will save you some money.

 

[Superdoo]

Hoyt and Mathews are the biggest names in archery but neither are perfect. Mathews biggest selling point always seems to be being “dead in the hand” or vibration free after the shot. Not sure why that makes a difference but they marketed it well enough to make it a selling point.

He said the exact same thing!

I did ask about previous years models and they don't have any. In fact even their new stock is dwindling and they're only down to 3 or less in the longer ATA models.

I'm able to save more and do it right the first time around (and that's probably what I'll end up doing), but I wish I would be able to convince myself it's legitimately worth it.

 

[MOwhitetail]

He said the exact same thing!

I did ask about previous years models and they don't have any. In fact even their new stock is dwindling and they're only down to 3 or less in the longer ATA models.

I'm able to save more and do it right the first time around (and that's probably what I'll end up doing), but I wish I would be able to convince myself it's legitimately worth it.

I guess I didn’t think about what they have in stock. With how hard of a time they’re having producing new I’m not surprised they’re out of all the old. I’m sure you could find them on eBay or something like that but then you couldn’t shoot them.

As far as being worth it, there’s nothing better feeling in the field than having a setup you’re confident in. It doesn’t have to be the most expensive to be the best option for you but ask yourself this, “Is it worth saving $100 and having something you’re not sure about?” To me that answer is always no.

 

[ramsdude47]

Superdoo find yourself a Bear Anarchy. I got my single cam (2012) for like $225 on EBay and my HC (2014) for $300. I like the SC better, but the HC is great as well.

The HC is adjustable without mods, the SC you can easily get mods from Bear for $25. I got mine in like 10 days. The draw length runs a solid 1/2 inch to 3/4 long and both models go up to 31.5”.

Edit: searched my FB groups and I got 2 names of people selling them. One listing is from September, so I wouldn’t be surprised if his sold, it was $500 loaded with 2 sets of limbs!

 

[BryanL]

Superdoo find yourself a Bear Anarchy. I got my single cam (2012) for like $225 on EBay and my HC (2014) for $300. I like the SC better, but the HC is great as well.

The HC is adjustable without mods, the SC you can easily get mods from Bear for $25. I got mine in like 10 days. The draw length runs a solid 1/2 inch to 3/4 long and both models go up to 31.5”.

I picked up a Bear Approach HC 2018 for $200 delivered on AT.