Fine Tuning Arrow& Spine Help

[BTK]

Hey guys, I have a few questions concerning making the right arrow selection. Even though I have been archery hunting for 25 years, I have never dug into anything too seriously until the last year or two. I have been reading as much as I can and watching any content I can get my hands on. In the last year, I have had the itch to really dial things in and would like to lean on some of you experts for your opinion. Please know that I am not trying to create controversy while asking these questions even though I know the topics can be controversial.

My current setup includes:

• Hoyt Ventum Pro 33
• 30" Draw Length (I will have to ask a few questions on this in another thread as to how to really dial in your true draw length)
• 70# draw
• Currently shooting Easton Axis 5 mil 300 spine 28" C2C with standard 16g insert, 3 fletch Max Stealth, 100g tip, 450g TAW

Prior to shooting the Easton Axis, I was shooting Gold Tip Airstrikes with standard components (405g TAW). I really liked these initially as they grouped well initially and had a very flat trajectory keeping my pin gap fairly tight. This is important to me as I like to chase antelope and mule deer. The problem I had with the AirStrikes is, after shooting them for about 2 months, I noticed that my groups opened up a bit. I put them on an arrow spinner and found the the aluminum inserts that I had were bending despite the collar. This is the same issue that I had with the Easton Axis 4 mil arrows. From this point going forward, I have determined that I have spent enough on arrows and swear that I will not put any more aluminum on the outside of my arrows again (lesson learned the hard way).

I decided to go back to my old trusted Easton Axis 5 mil with standard inserts. I have paper tuned, nock tuned, shot bare shafts through paper, and bare shaft tuned out to 30 yards. I have 6 of theses arrows and am trying to decide what I would like to do going forward. I have been told by a few local guys, who I do value their opinion, say that I could be a bit over-spined with the 28" C2C and standard 16g insert (I know it is shorter than most guys run, but I comfortable with where the tip of the arrow sits). They seem to think that it might benefit me to shoot a similar setup in the Easton Axis 5 mil with a 340 spine and maybe adding a light titanium collar to the end. They have also suggested that they have found these Easton Axis to run a bit stiffer than the spine charts suggest. My goal is to stay between the 435 and 450 TAW for now to keep the pin gaps fairly tight. If I were to run the Easton Axis 340 with 28.5" C2C, I could put the standard insert with a 15g titanium collar and be around 438g TAW with 12% FOC (not that FOC is a top priority for me but I think I would be more than happy with 12%).

Based upon your knowledge, would this be a good avenue to try? Is there a such thing as being over-spined? Or is there a benefit to having a bit more flex in the arrow to a certain point? If there is another avenue that you think that I should try, I am all ears! I am still pretty green when making these decisions and would like to lean on some of your experiences.

Thanks!

 

[Billy Goat]

A 5 mil arrow doesn't use a standard insert, it uses a hit. Personally that's the smallest I would go for a hunting arrow, as you found the problems with going smaller.


I don't think you can be overspined in a hunting arrow with a centershot compound. Stiffer spine makes it a lot easier to broadhead tune.

I wouldn't bother with a collar. Biggest thing with .204 shafts and hit inserts is squaring the ends of the shaft. As you screw a broadhead on, if the end of the shaft isn't square, it will push on one side of the broadhead ferrule and it won't be aligned. Should also always square your nock end. Collar just adds more variables into the fit that can add up to more wobble. If you are shooting a light GPI shaft that's brittle it would be a different story, but the AXIS is a pretty stout shaft.


At a 28" shaft and 70#, I'd stick to 300 spine.

 

[BTK]

A 5 mil arrow doesn't use a standard insert, it uses a hit. Personally that's the smallest I would go for a hunting arrow, as you found the problems with going smaller.


I don't think you can be overspined in a hunting arrow with a centershot compound. Stiffer spine makes it a lot easier to broadhead tune.

I wouldn't bother with a collar. Biggest thing with .204 shafts and hit inserts is squaring the ends of the shaft. As you screw a broadhead on, if the end of the shaft isn't square, it will push on one side of the broadhead ferrule and it won't be aligned. Should also always square your nock end. Collar just adds more variables into the fit that can add up to more wobble. If you are shooting a light GPI shaft that's brittle it would be a different story, but the AXIS is a pretty stout shaft.


At a 28" shaft and 70#, I'd stick to 300 spine.

Thanks for the response! I appreciate it!

 

[Bump79]

You're very well spined at 300. Don't go 340 or else you'd be under spined.

If you want to get lighter - There is a wide variety of 300 .204 shafts that are lighter. Or use the Easton Sonic 300 as they are lighter and there isn't going to be a real tangible wind drift or penetration loss from the .204. Excellent shaft for the money.

 

[fatlander]

You’re probably fine at .300. I think you might a be a little light on the upfront weight at that length and your specs, but you should still be able to get it to tune.

I really like the Easton 6.5 arrows. They’re lighter overall than axis, heavier than sonics, and dirt cheap. My ventum 33 tuned out great @29” 72# with a .300 6.5 shafts with 175 grains upfront.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Billy Goat]

Also, you might be able to cut/remove the factory half-out on your air strike shafts, then use a hit insert instead.

Don't know how many you have left, or how long they are but it's an option. You don't need to stick to GT components with GT shafts.

 

[Bump79]

Also, you might be able to cut/remove the factory half-out on your air strike shafts, then use a hit insert instead.

Don't know how many you have left, or how long they are but it's an option. You don't need to stick to GT components with GT shafts.

Yeah typically I put in a field tip and add a little heat to it and I can get most stuff out - outside of epoxy.

 

[axeforce6]

I believe your bow has already told you what you wanted to know. If it’s broadhead tuned and bare shaft tuned I wouldn’t care what number is wrote on the side of your arrow.

 

[BTK]

You're very well spined at 300. Don't go 340 or else you'd be under spined.

If you want to get lighter - There is a wide variety of 300 .204 shafts that are lighter. Or use the Easton Sonic 300 as they are lighter and there isn't going to be a real tangible wind drift or penetration loss from the .204. Excellent shaft for the money.

Thanks for your reply!

 

[BTK]

I believe your bow has already told you what you wanted to know. If it’s broadhead tuned and bare shaft tuned I wouldn’t care what number is wrote on the side of your arrow.

That’s a great point! Thanks!

 

[JRB7]

I shoot a very similar setup just slightly heavier point weight, and I’ve been very happy with it for several years.

5 mm Easton Axis 28.5” C2C
3 AAE max stealth vanes
100 grn point 50grn insert
Hoyt RX1 70lbs @ 30”

Any easy test if you want to break the spine down more would be to pick up some 125grn field points and see if your groups improve or not.

 

[Beendare]

Shoot the Axis 300’s. Underspined is bad….over spined tunes fine In a centershot riser.
Put them on a jig to mill the ends with fine sandpaper…that makes a huge difference with these.

Make sure your noks are tight.

Number the shafts and shoot for groups logging each. Take the arrows that don’t group as well and nock tune twisting the nok and/or refletch.

That said, there is more a shooter can do form wise to improve Than messing with your arrows.

 

[Bump79]

Make sure your noks are tight.

And make sure your nocks aren't too tight. Dudley has some good YouTube videos on nock fit.

 

[BTK]

And make sure your nocks aren't too tight. Dudley has some good YouTube videos on nock fit.

Thanks! I just had my local shop reserve my string as they noticed that this was an issue. My groups actually tightened up a bit afterwards.