Field Sharpening Advice Wanted.

[seldomseensmith]

I've used replaceable blade knives for a while now and just bought a fixed blade skinner I want to use in the field but only if I can get and retain a razor blade in the field. Any equipment/Technique advice from guys that use a fixed blade knife? Thanks.

 

[muddydogs]

Second knife. I can skin and quarter a whole elk with one knife and I know sharp. What I mean is my knives are sharp and as soon as I feel it dragging due to getting dull it drives me crazy and I have to sharpen the knife or grab another one. I carry 2 fixed blades as there's times I have an issue removing a lower leg or two and tend to dull the blade on the joint so I like having a second around. I did purchase an Outdoor edge replaceable blade knife to give a try this season, it will never be my primary blade but I thought it might be nice to have a second knife that I could replace the blade on just in case.
The just in case situation happened last season when I put a cow and bull down within one minute of each other 30 yards apart. Buy the time I got done both knives were getting dull.
I just don't see wasting time field sharpening a blade when a second knife doesn't weight much more then a sharpening whatever. My skinning knives are for skinning and quartering, I have a knife in my pocket for camp chores so my skinners are always sharp.
I'm definitely kind of anal with my knife sharpness, I have about 15 fillet knives that I use for cleaning and processing my game meat and I will go through half or better when processing an elk. First sign of dullness I drop the knife and grab another. Once I'm done I have no problem setting around watching TV sharpening knives on my sandpaper block for a couple hours a few nights in a row.
I prefer the sandpaper sharpening method. Start out with 400 grit on a new or mistreated blade, move to 800, 1000, 2000 grit then leather strop with rouge on it and finish on clean leather strop. I have a 1"x2" board with a carved handle that I have glued leather to each side one side clean the othere with rouge. I then cut sandpaper to fit on the board and hold it in place with a Ranger Band.

 

[Dameon]

I'm kind of like Muddydogs, I keep my Benchmade Contego folder in my right pocket for field use, a Leatherman Charge Ti in the left pocket, and a Buck Kalinga Pro for skinning and quartering in my kill kit. I carry a very small diamond stick for field sharpening and keep my blades sharp before I hit the trail. The diamond stick just take a few swipes to get a knife sharp again if it started out sharp and doesn't have serious issues. I use the Lanky and Spyderdco sharpening systems at home. I personally don't care for replaceable blade knives.....I'm just old fashioned like that.

 

[seldomseensmith]

That's great feedback. I'll look into the sandpaper method. I'm scared I've spoiled myself with the Havalon. I would never take anything away from them. I'm just a tinkerer and once something works well I'm off to figure out another way to tackle the same problem. My wife loves that about me. My hunting partner too. Yeah right.
Plus I have to confess I'm a bit of a phony. I've taken several knives into the field and ceremoniusly made a few cuts on an elk, put them away and got to work with my Havalon. Just so I could say I used them.
I want to fix this.

 

[muddydogs]

It sounds like you're all about sharp as well. Once you figure out how to sharpen a fixed blade youall probably be happy with it. There are good sharpening systems like Dameon stated that are almost foolproof at keeping the angle consistent. Start with one of them and branch out to more free hand methods once you get the hang of sharpening.

 

[FLAK]

A very small sharpening rod about the size of a pen.

 

[Felix40]

Should be able to do it with a small rod. If the blade has good steel it takes just a few swipes to maintain it and keep it razor sharp. Ive learned this recently as I just got a really quality knife.

 

[Old_Navy]

DMT has some really nice dual grit folding hones, for touch-up in the field the fine/ex-fine should be all you need.

Double Sided Diafold Sharpener | DMT Diamond Sharpening

 

[gmajor]

Honestly I have found that a havalon (or something simlar) plus a small folding/fixed blade is what I like. I've tried dropping one, and relying only on one or the other, but at the end of the day I like what both offer.

 

[robtattoo]

I'm utterly anal about my knives. I've spent a lot of time cutting meat, in one way or another, & spent a lot of years making knives & blades. The one thing I've learned & learned to love is a ceramic crock stick.
I have several in my shop, house & truck & always carry at least one (plus a spare) in the field. It's a tiny little thing, maybe 3" long & 3/8" diameter. They're dirty cheap too.
I doubt I make more than 5 or 6 cuts, ever, without giving my blade at least a lick on either side.
One thing I learned making knives, is that it's much, much easier to keep a knife sharp than to make a knife sharp.

 

[robtattoo]

Lansky Mini Dog Bone Crock Stick Ceramic Knife Sharpener - KnifeCenter - LCDOG

This is what I carry in the field. Just thinking on it; I have 2 in every day pack I own, 2 in the truck, 6 in my desk drawer & God only knows how many stashed in my hunting room.

I've used them on knives (fixed, folder, kitchen & Havalon) & broadheads and as long as your blade isn't actually blunt, chopped, rolled or deformed it'll put an edge back on in seconds. Just use it often & you'll never have to 'sharpen' again.

 

[todde1792]

I'm also old school in the sense that fixed blades​ will always be dear to my heart. I make sure they're sharp before I leave and slide the fine grit deal on my work sharp in my pack while I'm away. I think I'll look into that ceramic stick. Thanks for the link robtattoo

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[5MilesBack]

I used to carry a sharpening stick in my pack along with my S30V steel fixed blade knife, but I never needed the stick with that knife. It will break down a complete bull and still slice paper. So I took the stick out of my pack and put in a Havalon as they weigh about the same. I used the Havalon for most the skinning and caping work and my knife for the meat work last year and that worked really well. So, no more field sharpeners for me.

 

[muddydogs]

A guy needs to be careful with a field stone or crock type stick as not using one right is the fastest way to loose and edge on a knife and field conditions with bloody cold hands and tools isn't ideal conditions. I knife with a good bevel (concave, convex or what ever you choose) and a good edge that's not to thin should last more then 5 or so cuts. I would say if one is hitting there blade on a sharpener every few cuts then the blade isn't truly sharp and the edge and or bevel isn't conducive to holding an edge and probably got that way from not keeping a consistent angle while sharpening on a stick or field stone. All the stick or stone is doing is lining the knife edge back out but after a couple cuts the microscopic edge is rolling over again because its to thin for the task at hand. After skinning and quartering an elk my knife is still sharp and I have had people pick it up and comment how sharp it still is but to me it's dull as a butter knife as it has lost that almost scalpel smooth clean cutting ability.

I just cringe when I see some guy pull out the latest and greatest sharpening whatever and start slapping there blade back and forth while stating just how great the sharpener is and how they use it all the time. I thinking "Yep I bet you do as your edge probably looks like a snake slithering back and forth."

 

[Shooter19802003]

Lansky Tactical Collapsible Diamond Rod Knife Sharpener

That is what I use. Why it is tactical is beyond me, but it works. I use a mora in the field because I like them...to each their own.

 

[cnelk]

Know your angles for the edge your are working with, or want it to do.
Scalpels are very sharp but wont last a long time.
Kitchen knives are 'sharp' but the angle makes them last a long time

Under 10 Degree Angles

The lowest angles are reserved for edges that are typically cutting softer materials. In this case, the edges are not subject to abuse so the lower angle can be maintained without damage or edge failure. The lowest angles that we typically see are on straight edge razors. These are sharpened to an angle which is roughly 7 to 8 degrees (although the back of the blade is used as a guide so knowing the angle isn’t important and it is not adjustable). A straight razor has a very delicate edge that is very easy to damage. In proper usage, a straight razor would never see the type of use that would damage the edge.

10 to 17 Degrees Angles

A sharpening angle of 10 to 17 degrees is still quite low for most knives. With a total angle of 20 to 34 degrees, this is still a very fine edge. This edge is typically too weak for any knife that might be used in any type of chopping motion. Also consider that harder steels are also more susceptible to impact damage because they are more brittle. If your knife is used for cutting soft items or slicing meats, this lower angle can hold up and provide a very smooth cutting action.

17 to 22 Degree Angles

A 17 to 20 degree angle covers most kitchen knives. Some knives (typically Japanese manufacturers) will sharpen their knives to roughly 17 degrees. Most western knives are roughly 20 degrees. It is our experience that kitchen knives sharpened to 15 to 20 degrees cut very well and are still durable. These angles are still not highly durable as a total angle under 40 degrees will not respond well to rougher treatment in harder materials.

22 to 30 Degree Angles

In this range, the knife edges are considerably more durable. A pocket knife or a hunting knife will inevitably see abuse not seen by knives meant primarily for slicing or chopping softer materials. While the edge may not ultimately cut as well (but you may not notice a difference) it will be considerably more durable.

Over 30 Degrees Angles

Any edged tool or knife that is sharpened past 30 degrees will be very durable. Its cutting ability will be noticeably reduced. This durability has an advantage because more force can be used to make the cut. While the majority of knives won’t benefit from this sharpening angle, an edged tool like a machete, cleaver or axe must be durable as the typical cutting action of these tools would damage other edges.