Exposed turrets?

[ResearchinStuff]

You weren’t wrong though Maybe a touch heavy on the direct but spot on otherwise

Now, All we need is an ethics post on why anything over 250 is un- ethical

I mean, if we are talking about guessing holdovers using box velocity numbers with scopes that don't hold zero at distances the shooter is not proficient at, and with no understanding of how wind affects bullet flight, yeah, that shot is unethical.

 

[cuerro viejo]

I mean, if we are talking about guessing holdovers using box velocity numbers with scopes that don't hold zero at distances the shooter is not proficient at, and with no understanding of how wind affects bullet flight, yeah, that shot is unethical.

Well played!!

 

[mad_angler]

@mad_angler what caliber are you shooting? I may have missed it in one of your comments.

With a bit of info you can calculate your point blank range with your current scope where you can just aim out to certain yardage and not have deal with holdover. It is the route I would go if not dialing.

I prefer to dial for big game, and I try to limit my shots to 350 yards. I will go longer for antelope but I'm not a sharp shooter like others here. Antelope get mighty small past 300 yards. I have my hands full managing windage. I don't need to add holdover to the mix. Anything I can do reduce the risk of a bad shot I'm going to do. Getting as close as possible is number one. Dialing is number two. Despite what everyone says, 400 yards is not a chip shot. Add a 10 to 15 mph crosswind and gets interesting fast.

But if you are not setup to dial, point blank range. It just works. And if you have to shoot further, it will reduce less holdover. It may not be the solution you're looking for but check it out. I posted a link.

NRA Family | What is "Point Blank Range"?

As with many phrases related to marksmanship, everybody uses it...not everybody knows what it really means.

www.nrafamily.org

My rifle is a Tikka 7mm Rem mag.
My ammo is 162 grain factory ELD-X.
My scope is Vortex Viper HS 4x16 x 44 (https://vortexoptics.com/viper-hs-4-16x44-dead-hold-bdc-moa.html).

I already sorta do the point blank range.
I think 6 inches is too much leeway. I use about 2.5 inches.

I zero at 200 yards. From 0 to 250 yards, I am never off by more than 2.5 inches. So out to 250 yards, I just shoot without any messing around.

Here is my range card:

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[peterk123]

My rifle is a Tikka 7mm Rem mag.
My ammo is 162 grain factory ELD-X.
My scope is Vortex Viper HS 4x16 x 44 (https://vortexoptics.com/viper-hs-4-16x44-dead-hold-bdc-moa.html).

I already sorta do the point blank range.
I think 6 inches is too much leeway. I use about 2.5 inches.

I zero at 200 yards. From 0 to 250 yards, I am never off by more than 2.5 inches. So out to 250 yards, I just shoot without any messing around.

Here is my range card:

View attachment 1004150

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Nice. I think you have that set up just right. Can't ask for much more than that.

 

[Chris in TN]

My rifle is a Tikka 7mm Rem mag.
My ammo is 162 grain factory ELD-X.
My scope is Vortex Viper HS 4x16 x 44 (https://vortexoptics.com/viper-hs-4-16x44-dead-hold-bdc-moa.html).

I already sorta do the point blank range.
I think 6 inches is too much leeway. I use about 2.5 inches.

I zero at 200 yards. From 0 to 250 yards, I am never off by more than 2.5 inches. So out to 250 yards, I just shoot without any messing around.

Here is my range card:

View attachment 1004150

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And you've verified those numbers?

(FWIW< if I were you, *AFTER* I verified all of those, I'd redo the chart and round those numbers off. You aren't holding 0.3" at 500 yards)

 

[mad_angler]

And you've verified those numbers?

(FWIW< if I were you, *AFTER* I verified all of those, I'd redo the chart and round those numbers off. You aren't holding 0.3" at 500 yards)

I have sorta verified the numbers. Adjusting my scope 2 MOA had me doing okay at 300 yards at the range.
I need to find a 400 yard range and verify that number.

But that gets back to the original question. At 400 yards, I need to adjust 4.2 MOA (assuming it doesn't change after verification). I was planning on removing my scope caps and making the adjustment. That is pretty easy to do at the range. I was asking that is what folks do in the field.

It seems that I have 3 options:
- Find where 4.2 MOA is on my marked retical and then hold over using that mark
- Remove my caps and adjust my scope 4.2 MOA. Then hold dead on.
- Buy a new scope with exposed reticals and make the scope adjustment without the need to remove my caps.


It seems that about half the folks recommend the first option and about half recommend the 3rd option...
-

 

[peterk123]

I have sorta verified the numbers. Adjusting my scope 2 MOA had me doing okay at 300 yards at the range.
I need to find a 400 yard range and verify that number.

But that gets back to the original question. At 400 yards, I need to adjust 4.2 MOA (assuming it doesn't change after verification). I was planning on removing my scope caps and making the adjustment. That is pretty easy to do at the range. I was asking that is what folks do in the field.

It seems that I have 3 options:
- Find where 4.2 MOA is on my marked retical and then hold over using that mark
- Remove my caps and adjust my scope 4.2 MOA. Then hold dead on.
- Buy a new scope with exposed reticals and make the scope adjustment without the need to remove my caps.


It seems that about half the folks recommend the first option and about half recommend the 3rd option...
-

I have one scope with capped turrets. It's on my tikka 223. I remove the elevation cap when hunting coyote.

 

[LongWayAround]

@mad_angler I had that same scope as my introduction to dialing elevation. I was removing the cap and dialing. That part was easy.

Over time I began to notice that the scope would occasionally return to zero with recoil.

As a general example, let's say I went to the range and checked zero at 100. Then, I would go to the longer range I dial to targets at 400-800. Before I went home I would return to the 100 bay. I would sometimes completely miss the target and be unsure why. The following shot or shots would be "close" to where my zero had initially started.

I also generally think BDC reticles are dumb. They typically don't line up that well with what they are supposed to be. Your 400 hash may be 380 or 420 depending on your load and it could be off by more than that. It might be close enough to hit an animal, but I see it as an unnecessary source of error.

I sold that scope with the disclosure that I think it's fine for a typical fairly short range "set and forget" optic.

Last year I ran into a guy with the same scope who was convinced that he was "good to 600" based on having that reticle. I could almost guarantee that guy didn't shoot a box of ammo a year...