Epoxy Bedding scope bases

[krossh]

Do a lot of people do this? Is it worth it?

 

[Broz]

I wont run a rifle without doing it. Here is why and how.

How to Bed a Rail Scope Base by Jeff Brozovich - Long Range Only

Another instructional video where Broz shows his complete process to properly bed a rail to a receiver. If you have questions or wish to discuss this video go HERE

www.longrangeonly.com

 

[krossh]

That’s actually the video that was the catalyst for asking the question.. it’s a great video.. it has me thinking of doing this on my Bergara

 

[Felix40]

I have done the last two rifles I put scopes on. Idk if it makes any difference but its so easy I wouldnt skip it.

 

[AirborneEScouter]

I've done this before based on 8451 Tactical's instructions, albeit i just bedded the rear contact as that's all he did, though on future bed jobs I will do both points. With my first attempt, I'm pretty sure the method I used was using play dough putty for the rear screw holes with clear kiwi on the action - after applying the bedding compound, I torqued the front screws of the base down to handtight and let the compound set. After waiting overnight, I used a drill bit to open up the screw holes on the rear of the base. This was a simple and effective method but missed the front attachment point like I mentioned.

In the LRO method, he applies the compound without covering the screw holes - what I'm wondering from others is if you had any issues or took precautionary measures to ensure the bedding compound doesn't get in the threads of the action other than applying release agent to the screws - anyone have any insight?

 

[Broz]

In the LRO method, he applies the compound without covering the screw holes - what I'm wondering from others is if you had any issues or took precautionary measures to ensure the bedding compound doesn't get in the threads of the action other than applying release agent to the screws - anyone have any insight?

At 8:56 into my video I offer the screws are coated with release agent (Johnsond Floor wax) I keep the bedding away from the screw holes in the rail when applying it. If you want to fill the action holes, you sure can, but keep in mind any epoxy can always be pushed through the hole if you get any in there, with the exception of the front hole. The key is to keep epoxy back from the holes when applying, and don't push down on the rail till the screws are started. This is how I keep the holes clean.

 

[krossh]

I appreciate that explanation Broz.. this was the biggest hesitation I had in bedding the mount.. my Bergara came with a shim for the scope base but i am going to give this a try instead. The next question is Lapping the scope rings vs bedding? What’s best? Or should i do both?

 

[WeiserBucks]

I absolutely bed the scope base of any rifle that doesn't have an integral rail. Broz is right on point in all regards .

 

[Broz]

I appreciate that explanation Broz.. this was the biggest hesitation I had in bedding the mount.. my Bergara came with a shim for the scope base but i am going to give this a try instead. The next question is Lapping the scope rings vs bedding? What’s best? Or should i do both?

I use high quality rings and do not lap anymore

 

[GLB]

I have always used blue loctite on my bases and proper screw torque. Using epoxy will be a more solid bond, but with blue loctite I have never had an issue.

 

[HellsCanyon]

It’s never a bad idea. On any factory Remington running factory 6:48 screws bedding the base is a must especially if you aren’t running a rail with an integral lug (Seekins). I’ve slipped a lot of scope rings and bases on rifles over the years. Never had a base slip with it bedded. Awhile back I had a customers 338 Norma on a rem 700 action. The factory screw holes were off preventing the base lug from contacting the ejection port putting the full recoil force against the 6:48 screws and they eventually sheared. Bedded the base and problem solved.

Now any magnum 700 build gets 8:40 screw upgrade and a bedded base. Overkill is underrated....

Another trick to do with scope rings is use Elmer’s rubber cement between the rings and the scope tube. Sounds weird but it works great and it rubs off if you even take the scope out of the rings (unlike loktight). I just got a Zeiss V6 to test and the anodizing on the scope tube is a bit rough and SLICK. First trip out on my 300HCA and it slipped the scope tube. Remounted with the Elmer’s and scope has stayed put for over 100 rounds now. This is with very high quality rings that have held more than 3 other 30mm scopes without issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Wrench]

As Jeff said, mud in the holes isn't an issue....you can send it through the hole. The front hole is blind due to the barrel. Plug it with a little clay to keep the epoxy from pushing into the barrel threads and release agent (I too use Johnsons with confidence) and rock on.

 

[Broz]

Anyone that know me, knows I tend to run light rifles, big in recoil with heavy scopes. The perfect storm for something to slip or come loose. Bedded quality rails done properly, and Nightforce rings. I wipe the scope tube and inside the rings with Acetone and torque them down. No problems even on rifles like Robert Vestal just built me in 300 High Country Magnum. 10 .7 lb rifle with a 3 lb scope and mounts, sending 240 gr Cutting edge Lazers at 3200. All is well.

Jeff

 

[Wrench]

Locktite is no cure for zero movement under any circumstances.

After studying "Rifle Accuracy Facts" by Harold Vaughan....an actual NASA scientist and shooting aficionado, one tends to understand how the system works. The flex and motion under recoil, compression of mismatched surfaces, frequency difference between surfaces....it's all recorded and documented by him.

Ounces make pounds, and moving scopes make us throw rifles off of cliffs blaming everything but the problem.

 

[Broz]

Locktite is no cure for zero movement under any circumstances.

After studying "Rifle Accuracy Facts" by Harold Vaughan....an actual NASA scientist and shooting aficionado, one tends to understand how the system works. The flex and motion under recoil, compression of mismatched surfaces, frequency difference between surfaces....it's all recorded and documented by him.

Ounces make pounds, and moving scopes make us throw rifles off of cliffs blaming everything but the problem.

And many do not realize those 4 little screws only provide a clamping force between two surfaces. The screws add little shear strength. The load if lateral, it is the shear coefficient between these two surfaces that do the work. Thus the importance of a 100% contact surface between mount and receiver.

 

[krossh]

Update: I did this the last few days. It’s a simple project that I will be doing on all of my rifles from now on.. thanks to Broz and all of your input and help.

 

[connerh04]

Update: I did this the last few days. It’s a simple project that I will be doing on all of my rifles from now on.. thanks to Broz and all of your input and help.

Resurrecting this thread because I wanted to ask another question I don’t see on here. Do you guys that do this use release agent on the action itself? (In addition to the screws) I know Broz says in the video using the epoxy to fuse the two is good but I’ve also seen some cautions in doing that because it becomes pretty permanent. In a sense, that’s the goal... Anyone had to remove a rail that didn’t have release agent on it? Ive seen folks say some heat works, but 600 degrees seems to be the threshold for JB...that’s hot.

 

[Hill Difficulty]

Unless you want to glue everything together, yes, you need to apply release agent to the top of the receiver. I use Kiwi clear shoe polish but a lot of release products work fine. I grease it on, heat with a hair dryer to melt, wipe it off.

You apply the bedding to the bottom of the pic base (I bed the rear base of a pic rail) before setting. So, the bedding bonds to the base to create new material that fills in any spacial difference between top of receiver and bottom of base.

 

[Varminterror]

I bed any rail or base which isn’t integral to the receiver. Bed most scope rings as well.

Here’s an extreme example of why I find bedding important and valuable - the poor fit was obvious in this case, but it illustrates what might not be so obvious in other rifles.