Elite Energy 32/Tommy Hogg Problem?

[lastcall]

I attched the Tommy to the bow last night and drew back on target. Looking through the peep, the cables were covering the pins so I adjusted the horizontal travel all the way to the left. I shot a few arrows at 10 yards and they were hitting about 10" left. I then check out my rest and it is also maxed out to the left.

So I reversed the spacer from the back side of the Pin guard to the front side which moved the pin guard about a 1/4" more to the left. I am still hitting about 4" left with no horizontal travel what so ever.

Am I missing something or doing something wrong?

FYI both E-32 and Tommy Hogg are brand new.

 

[trkyslr]

without seeing your bow my best educated guess is your cable slide rod needs to be turned away from the center just a little. sounds like its turned positioned towards the center too much.

 

[HurricaneHuge]

Lot of options there. Generally if your cables are in the way of your sights, it's not the bow, it's you. Your head angle is tilting too far forward versus being more vertical (bring the bow to you, don't go to the bow). Secondly, your arrows would go right if you move your rest right (rest movements go to where you want the arrow to go, not chase your arrows).

That being said, most rests shouldn't be at their extremes when properly set up.

 

[MattB]

If I am reading this correctly, it sounds like there may be 2 issues: improper centershot and bow torque. If your rest is maxed out to the left (presuming you are right handed), your center shot is probably way off. Visually line up the string and the center of the riser above the sight window (the vertical part) and then look down at where the rest launcher is in relation to the string. I would bet your launcher is a fair bit away from the riser relative to the string. The first thing would be to correct that. I would then check the cable guide rod position, ensuring that you have fletching clearance at brace. Presuming that is good, I would then work on hand position to see if the bow is torquing substantially from brace to full draw.

 

[lastcall]

Wow, lots of options here. When I ordered the bow I had them install a QAD Ultrarest, peep and D-loop and tune the bow and rest as much as they could because im currently deployed. I assumed they tuned it before shipping. The rest was/is maxed out all the way to the left (right handed bow).

Would I be better off starting over and try to get centershot first?

As for the cable guide rod/slide, if it was set in the current position from Elite do I need to turn it?

 

[MattB]

I would put the rest centershot to the correct spot as described above (at least as a rough starting point, and adjust from there). You may want to mark it where it is to get back there as a fallback position. Does anyone know a rough measurement from the riser to center of launcher for these bows? Then check your clearance on the cables at brace - if there is enough clearance at brace it is highly unlikely that the cables covering the pins is bow-realted (but rather form related). It might for you to post some side and back pictures of you at full draw to assess if there is something form-related going on.

 

[HurricaneHuge]

You don't need to adjust tg e cable guard. Unless it's broken, the bow was designed and built by someone who engineered it that way for a reason. It's either your head angle or hand torque.

 

[boom]

Don't mess with the guard.

Is the loaded arrow parallel with the stabilizer?

That limbdriver has two sets of holes to allow you to move it further left right?

 

[HurricaneHuge]

QAD isn't limb driven. As stated above, mark the current set up on the rest. Then make sure center shot appears close. If it doesn't, tweak it. Again, as for the cables, it's likely a you problem (we all have them).

 

[lastcall]

After a little research, per the Elite Manual the Centershot should be 3/4" - 13/16" from inside the riser to the center of the arrow. It was off by a good 1/8".

I called Elite today in reference to the QAD and sight issue and he said Spot hoggs are known for not having enough horizontal adjustment. Im not too sure if that is a true statement or not.

I also relocated the spacer between the pin gaurd and the pin gaurd mount, which gave me an additional 1/4" of horizontal travel to the left. I will tinker with it after I get back from the chow hall.

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[RosinBag]

Spot Hoggs will travel plenty, that is why they have a spacer bar. It also wouldn't matter which sight. If your pins are where they need to be to have alignment, they would all be in that spot and therefore cables would be in the sight window regardless.

I don't know anything about elites, but set your center shot, yoke tune it if they have those for arrow flight, then walk back or a modifies walk back tune it to get your alignment figured out.

I would think those adjustments and a little tweeek on your cable guard should do the trick.

 

[HurricaneHuge]

1/8" will bring you a good ways back to center. And thank you for your service.

 

[boom]

QAD isn't limb driven. As stated above, mark the current set up on the rest. Then make sure center shot appears close. If it doesn't, tweak it. Again, as for the cables, it's likely a you problem (we all have them).

Gosh. Got my threads messed up.

 

[boom]

Can't yoke tune an elite.

 

[tipsntails7]

Good god there is A ton of stuff going on in this thread. Here you go

1. Set the rest at 13/16"s off the riser, or eyeball it down the middle, either will work.
2. Make sure your cams are times properly. Best way to do this is take both control cables off stretch the cables out and twist them both to spec. Then put them on. Now time the cams by taking 1/2-1 twist in or out of each cable until they time correctly. Using a draw board is best but you can also use a buddy to draw it.
3. Paper tune it to get the rest settled in closer, I then modify French tune it, but you can walk back tune if you want as well.
4. Shoot broadheads with FP's and make microscopic adjustments till they come together.
5. Finally shoot a bareshaft to check form.

Your done, if you have any questions PM me and I would be happy to walk you through it.

Cables In Your sight window are not a big deal. You will not even notice them when shooting. Make sure your head is straigh tand up. Look forward wit both eyes and don't tilt your head down to make the peep match or to touch the string with your nose. The way to tell if your peep is right is draw your bow with you eyes closed , come to your anchor and open them. If the peep is not lined up then move it till it is.

 

[HurricaneHuge]

Got a bow press over there? Otherwise keep it simple to start off.

 

[boom]

Got a bow press over there? Otherwise keep it simple to start off.

I'm with this guy. Thinking op is not a press owner yet.

 

[HurricaneHuge]

I'm not trying to discount others methods, I just feel like the guy came up with "My car doesn't seem to be steering correctly" and the collective response was "Let's start by rebuilding the engine." In archery, KISS is often overlooked yet normally the appropriate response.

 

[tipsntails7]

I'm not trying to discount others methods, I just feel like the guy came up with "My car doesn't seem to be steering correctly" and the collective response was "Let's start by rebuilding the engine." In archery, KISS is often overlooked yet normally the appropriate response.

If your car doesn't steer it's probably related to the steering, If your bow doesn't shoot straight it could be a number of things with binary cams. The real question is do you want a band aid fix or do you want it to shoot correctly?

If his sight AND rest are maxed in one direction it's something else that is wrong, not just. Move the rest a bit.

 

[HurricaneHuge]

Or it's a rest set up improperly with slight hand torque and/or a little head tilt. But by all means, let's amputate what we can bandage.