Easton BAR for Axis 300?

[Zac]

i have a dozen number 5 BAR I’ve had for years and never used other than to test fit a few. If the 6’s don’t work let me know and I’ll send these your way.

Thanks man

 

[nphunter]

I would doublecheck the end of the shafts for square, I always cover the entire end of the shaft with pencil lead and square them until the lead is 100% cut off of the front, I then apply it a second time and do it again just for good measure. I've never had an arrow with a HIT not spin true after doing this and I've been shooting them for close to 10 years. I've also only had one brass HIT bend and that was from hitting a boulder with 75lb bow, it hit hard enough to kill my IW collar and FP, the arrow still works well enough for FP but doesn't spin true.

 

[Zac]

I would doublecheck the end of the shafts for square, I always cover the entire end of the shaft with pencil lead and square them until the lead is 100% cut off of the front, I then apply it a second time and do it again just for good measure. I've never had an arrow with a HIT not spin true after doing this and I've been shooting them for close to 10 years. I've also only had one brass HIT bend and that was from hitting a boulder with 75lb bow, it hit hard enough to kill my IW collar and FP, the arrow still works well enough for FP but doesn't spin true.

Yeah I use a marker on the point end with the Firenock squaring tool. The pencil lead is interesting I may try that. Oddly enough the thing that almost worked for all the shafts was matching heads to shafts. Some of them wouldn't spin with a head while another would. They are Thorn broadheads so the ferrule is really long.

 

[doverpack12]

Yeah I use a marker on the point end with the Firenock squaring tool. The pencil lead is interesting I may try that. Oddly enough the thing that almost worked for all the shafts was matching heads to shafts. Some of them wouldn't spin with a head while another would. They are Thorn broadheads so the ferrule is really long.

I've built alot of arrows for myself and others and almost always matching broadheads to shafts is necessary and the best way to get perfect spinning arrows. I spin them on a pine ridge spinner with white paper behind or something like that where I can see any little amount of wobble or chatter and also have a block of wood beyond the point with a tiny dot for referance. Some broadheads are better than others but every single broadhead (I've tried alot) cheap to expensive at a minimum benefits from trying on different arrows. Then the key is shooting that arrow, broadhead combo before hunting with it. Some of my best spinning combo's ever that were on perfectly nock tuned arrows flew like junk compared to the next arrow in line.

For me a broadhead can wobble on the first arrow then spin perfect on the second arrow. Grab another broadhead from the same package and it might spin on the first arrow then. This hold true from the most expensive broadheads available to cheap ebay fake knockoffs or rebranded versions in retail stores.

 

[Zac]

I've built alot of arrows for myself and others and almost always matching broadheads to shafts is necessary and the best way to get perfect spinning arrows. I spin them on a pine ridge spinner with white paper behind or something like that where I can see any little amount of wobble or chatter and also have a block of wood beyond the point with a tiny dot for referance. Some broadheads are better than others but every single broadhead (I've tried alot) cheap to expensive at a minimum benefits from trying on different arrows. Then the key is shooting that arrow, broadhead combo before hunting with it. Some of my best spinning combo's ever that were on perfectly nock tuned arrows flew like junk compared to the next arrow in line.

For me a broadhead can wobble on the first arrow then spin perfect on the second arrow. Grab another broadhead from the same package and it might spin on the first arrow then. This hold true from the most expensive broadheads available to cheap ebay fake knockoffs or rebranded versions in retail stores.

Yeah that is definitely what I am finding. I'm trying to just circulate one head on all the shafts for nock tuning. Not sure how else to do that, didn't really want to put them all through foam before I shot them at animals.

 

[fatlander]

I've built alot of arrows for myself and others and almost always matching broadheads to shafts is necessary and the best way to get perfect spinning arrows. I spin them on a pine ridge spinner with white paper behind or something like that where I can see any little amount of wobble or chatter and also have a block of wood beyond the point with a tiny dot for referance. Some broadheads are better than others but every single broadhead (I've tried alot) cheap to expensive at a minimum benefits from trying on different arrows. Then the key is shooting that arrow, broadhead combo before hunting with it. Some of my best spinning combo's ever that were on perfectly nock tuned arrows flew like junk compared to the next arrow in line.

For me a broadhead can wobble on the first arrow then spin perfect on the second arrow. Grab another broadhead from the same package and it might spin on the first arrow then. This hold true from the most expensive broadheads available to cheap ebay fake knockoffs or rebranded versions in retail stores.

I’ve found this as well. The process is follow from start to hunt is: Build and square arrows, number each arrow, match broadheads with the arrow that they spin best with, shoot to verify, and then number the broadheads so that they match the corresponding arrow they’re supposed to be on.


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[5MilesBack]

I use the light gray Sharpie on the ends before squaring them and then make sure it's completely gone and clean to be sure they are square.