Easton axis 4mm spine help

[Tyc]

Hello, i am looking at purchasing some easton axis 4mm arrows and am on the edge to which spine i should choose. I shoot a bowtech realm sr6 at 65 pounds on comfort mode. 28" draw length, looking at putting ethics inserts in so ill have around 230 grains up front. 5" arrow wraps with 3 fletch aae hybrid 26 vanes. I currently shoot 27.75" c to c easton 5mm fmj 340 arrows with the normal insert and 100 grain points. I'm unsure if i should go with a 340 or 300 spine. If i had to go 300 spine i would think it might be a bit stiff so i would have to probably have 29" or longer arrows. Any help would be great, thanks.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

qSpine says 300 should be about right.

Bow inputs: 352 fps IBO, 65# DW, 28" DL, 32" ATA, 6" BH, 85% LO
Arrow inputs: 28" C2C, 230 gr on front, 37 gr on rear

 

[Tyc]

thanks

 

[Tyc]

qSpine says 300 should be about right.

Bow inputs: 352 fps IBO, 65# DW, 28" DL, 32" ATA, 6" BH, 85% LO
Arrow inputs: 28" C2C, 230 gr on front, 37 gr on rear
View attachment 399627

i got a question about that pinwheel software, I just downloaded the trial and it only has bows up to 2014 on there. When i purchase does it update? If it doesn't then i wont bother purchasing.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

i got a question about that pinwheel software, I just downloaded the trial and it only has bows up to 2014 on there. When i purchase does it update? If it doesn't then i wont bother purchasing.

I'm using the mobile app, which doesn't have a bow database at all. I don't know if the paid desktop version of the software will have an up-to-date bow database.

 

[Bill V]

I'd use the 300 spine since I've never seen a problem being slightly stiff, and yes, when you buy the software you get the latest database.

 

[Arctic Hunter]

I shot those for a while out of my ventum 33. With that much weight on the nose, I’d go with the 300’s. I’d probably start a little long and cut them down if you need to.

 

[Tyc]

Ya, im thinking ill probably go with the 300s then. The pinwheel software says its fine and when i enter it into archers advantage its marginally stiff. Wondering if i should get them cut at 29" or 28.5".

 

[Arctic Hunter]

If you don’t have an arrow saw, I’d have them cut two or three at 28.5 and see how the bare shafts fly. If you get it to fly well, fletch it and test broadheads. It it still flies well, have them cut the rest of them. If it acts weak, cut half to a quarter inch off and try again. But I bet 28 will be about right. I’d think 340’s would work to, but you would probably be shooting about a 27” or less arrow.

But that’s just my opinion.

 

[Tyc]

Ok, so when shooting the 28.5" arrows just mainly see how they are shooting through paper? If they are tearing nock left quite a bit then its probably a weak spine and i should cut the other ones down? Or should i see if i can get the shaft to shoot perfect bullet holes by adjusting my rest accordingly before i decide if i need to cut them down?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Ok, so when shooting the 28.5" arrows just mainly see how they are shooting through paper? If they are tearing nock left quite a bit then its probably a weak spine and i should cut the other ones down? Or should i see if i can get the shaft to shoot perfect bullet holes by adjusting my rest accordingly before i decide if i need to cut them down?

The "nock left tear = arrow is too weak, nock right tear = arrow is too stiff" (for a right-handed shooter) advice applies to traditional bows shot with fingers but doesn't have much relevance to a modern compound shot with a mechanical release. Compound bows can typically handle a fairly wide range of arrow spines. At the specs you provided, I think you'll be able to get a 300 to tune just fine anywhere in the 26-30" range.

If you get a horizontal paper tear while tuning, I wouldn't automatically assume it's spine related. I would first adjust the rest to 13/16" centershot then use the yokes to try to correct the tear. If yoke tuning doesn't fully correct the tear, then start adjusting rest windage. If you get more than 1/4" away from centershot and still have a horizontal tear, then start adjusting draw weight and/or point weight to test the effect of dynamic arrow spine on the tear (increase draw/point weight to weaken dynamic spine, decrease to stiffen). If the tear were to improve at a lower draw/point weight and I could confirm the improvement with bareshaft and broadhead tuning, only then would I consider trimming the arrow.

 

[Arctic Hunter]

Inconsistent bare shaft flight or tears that aren’t form related can be a sign of a weak arrow, in my experience. High tears as well.

 

[ForrestHorsehunter]

Last year I shot the 4mm Axis long range. I ended up waiting too long to change my setup so I ended hunted with these. They shoot great and hit super hard, they pass through targets that the 5mm axis only stick half way in. I'll never hunt with them again though. 2 lung shots and no exit wounds on a bull. I found the back end of the arrow where I hit him and the arrows broken in multiple pieces inside of the elk. Both arrow broke in multiple places. I'm shooting #70 @ 29in draw with with single bevel iron wills & ethics insert/outsert sleeves ending up right around 500 grains. Yes my bow was tuned shooting bull holes.

 

[Arctic Hunter]

Last year I shot the 4mm Axis long range. I ended up waiting too long to change my setup so I ended hunted with these. They shoot great and hit super hard, they pass through targets that the 5mm axis only stick half way in. I'll never hunt with them again though. 2 lung shots and no exit wounds on a bull. I found the back end of the arrow where I hit him and the arrows broken in multiple pieces inside of the elk. Both arrow broke in multiple places. I'm shooting #70 @ 29in draw with with single bevel iron wills & ethics insert/outsert sleeves ending up right around 500 grains. Yes my bow was tuned shooting bull holes.

Seems like the lighter gpi 4mm shafts sacrifices some durability. Injexions were heavy, but they were tough arrows.

 

[Tyc]

I ended up just sticking with the 300 spine 28.5 inch 5mm axis arrows instead with 255 grains up front . I am having issues bare shaft paper tuning now. I had my bows centershot set and everytime i shoot a bareshaft through the paper its about a half inch to 3/4 inch tear (point hitting left, nock end right). The only way for me to get it to shoot bullet holes is having the rest about 1/8 inch or more to the left. So if im looking at my arrow nocked on the bow its centershot is pointing off to the left quite a bit. I tried bareshaft tuning after doing this, but im running into a problem where i cannot move my sight far enough to the left to get a good 20 yard pin set. Any tips? Should i ignore paper tuning and just reset back to my default centershot and do bare shaft tuning to adjust everything perfectly?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I ended up just sticking with the 300 spine 28.5 inch 5mm axis arrows instead with 255 grains up front . I am having issues bare shaft paper tuning now. I had my bows centershot set and everytime i shoot a bareshaft through the paper its about a half inch to 3/4 inch tear (point hitting left, nock end right). The only way for me to get it to shoot bullet holes is having the rest about 1/8 inch or more to the left. So if im looking at my arrow nocked on the bow its centershot is pointing off to the left quite a bit. I tried bareshaft tuning after doing this, but im running into a problem where i cannot move my sight far enough to the left to get a good 20 yard pin set. Any tips? Should i ignore paper tuning and just reset back to my default centershot and do bare shaft tuning to adjust everything perfectly?

Put the rest back at 13/16" centershot and tune with the yokes. If you're getting a nock right paper tear, add twists to the right leg of the yoke and remove the same number of twists from the left leg.

 

[Marble]

Put the rest back at 13/16" centershot and tune with the yokes. If you're getting a nock right paper tear, add twists to the right leg of the yoke and remove the same number of twists from the left leg.

This is the solution. We just went through this with a prevail. Swapped rests and in order to get a bullet hole I had to shift the rest like a 1/4" which is too much. Reset center shot, gave some yoke twists, shot it a dozen times and checked timing, all was good.

Even if you do get a bullet hole with it being that far out you'll be ok at shorter yardage but at distance it will be inconsistent.

255 up front is quite a bit.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Tyc]

Thanks guys, ill take my bow to the pro shop and get them to twist the yolks for me and see if that works.

 

[Tyc]

Got another question for yall. So i took my bow to the pro shop and the yokes fixed that issue. He turned them 1.5 times and set the centershot perfectly. So my question is, should i now not touch the left and right on my rest. My plan is to bareshaft tune it now. Which usually requires moving the rest slightly. Just wondering if its ok for me to micro adjust to get the bare shafts and fletched shaft shooting basically next to each other.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Got another question for yall. So i took my bow to the pro shop and the yokes fixed that issue. He turned them 1.5 times and set the centershot perfectly. So my question is, should i now not touch the left and right on my rest. My plan is to bareshaft tune it now. Which usually requires moving the rest slightly. Just wondering if its ok for me to micro adjust to get the bare shafts and fletched shaft shooting basically next to each other.

I assume you're now getting bulletholes through paper, which is a good start, but it's not the ultimate goal. For a hunter, broadheads hitting with field points is the ultimate goal of tuning. Bareshaft tuning is a good next step after paper tuning, but it isn't entirely necessary. You could jump straight to broadhead tuning.

Without a bow press, adjusting rest windage is your only option for tuning in the horizontal direction. I have no qualms about moving my rest up to 1/4" inside/outside of 13/16" centershot. If I needed to go beyond 1/4", I would adjust the yokes again.