Dumb Q about Scope turrets and BC. Please help!

[The Guide]

Hi Jay,
You are very right. I checked my numbers in the JBM ballastics calc and got something very different.
I'm using factory Hornady Precision Hunter 6.5 creedmoor. 143 gr eldx out of a Tikka t3x hunter. Here's what I get with JBM. I'm going to print this and take to the range to check at 300 and 400 yards.

That looks much closer! You might have an input error in your other program. Once you get your good verified velocity you can redo your Hornady calculator and check it with a secondary app to see if you get similar numbers with the same inputs.

With what you have now, dial 2.5 MOA for 300 and 5.5 MOA for 400. So if you have your dial on the 0 marker, dial to the number 2 and then 2 clicks for 300 and dial to the number 5 plus 2 clicks for 400. The Shooter App gives you your solution in MOA/MIL and clicks if you can not get the Hornady calculator to work for you.

Jay

 

[The Guide]

OP it sounds like they've got you on the right track. If you really wanted to use clicks the Strelok Pro app allows output in clicks.

Strelok isn't available for download anymore because the designer is in Russia and the government stopped all payments to Russia due to Ukraine.

Jay

 

[ATL]

Zero the scope for 100 yards. If during the hunt you wish to carry the gun with a 200 yard zero, or calculated MPBR, dial to that from the 100 yard zero.

 

[Macintosh]

IMO the best way to deal with your zero distance is to zero at 100 (which gives you the benefit of being close-enough that your zero is not affected by altitude or environmentals or much by wind, so you can get a better zero in the first place that isnt subject to future changes in location/weather), and then if you want to have a "walking around" Max Point Blank Range zero, you dial your 200-yard dope and simply walk around that way. With your 6.5cm that would have you about 1.5" high at 100 yards, and about 2" low at 250 yards if you simply aim center of crosshair at any range 250 or less. Just be careful pushing this too far, some people make it work but the built-in error stacks on top of the error in your shooting ability, and the error in your gun, and it doesnt take much to cause a miss or a wound on a deer-sized target at 300 yards if you havent practiced this a bunch.

300 yards really isnt far enough to need to change around your inputs that much due to environmentals. With a 100-yard zero and 140-ish gr lead bullet you're going to be really close to .75moa at 150, 1.75 at 200, 3.5 at 250, 4.5 at 300. At those ranges, even with a big elevation change, the difference is 1 click or less, which is less than an inch error at 300 yards--it's not going to be the reason you miss or wound an animal. Verify when you get to where you are hunting if you want to check zero hasnt shifted, but I just ran numbers for my 6.5cm and it's .3moa difference at 300 yards between where I live at about 2000' DA to 11,000'DA...which is one click on your scope. less elevation change will be less difference. If you have access to a 300 yard range you can just colllect your own dope at 25 or 50 yard increments, and make a simple dope card you can stick on your stock or scope eyepiece.

Also, you do not need a chrono if you use the truing function on your app. Just plug in box velocity to start, shoot the farthest distance you are going to shoot, and true the app to your actual drop at that distance, and it will correct your velocity for you. Then you verify the output at a couple distances to make sure you dont have an error in your inputs. This works well way past 300 yards.

All of this is prefaced by having a really perfect zero, becasue any error in your zero can be amplified throughout your corrections, so getting in the habit of making sure its perfect, not just close-enough, will be an asset as you start shooting farther. I like to fine-tune my zero off a 10-round group, not a 3 or 5-round group, for this reason.

Above all practice from positions other than the bench. That's what will make the most difference. I've been able to get prone for most shots I've taken at antelope, but there are plenty of places where grass, rocks, sage is too high and you need to shoot sitting or standing. Practice shooting off shooting sticks or hiking poles, sitting off a pack, etc.

 

[KHntr]

What scope are you actually using? I know you stated “Leupold”, but which one?

Is it equipped with turrets, or are you just taking off the cap and cranking on the elevation adjustment?

 

[wildfish]

Macintosh--what a great answer. This has got to be the most generous board. Quite a lot of help for someone asking a very green question!

KHntr--I'm using an old vx3. It doesn't have CDS dials, just taking of the cap and cranking. Is that wrong?

Regarding 100 vs 200 yard zero, my gun was already dialed in a 100 yards. I've been shooting it for a long time. It's totally set at 100. I just upped the point of aim to 200 yards off of that 100 yard zero for this hunt. So I think I'm already doing what everyone is suggestion.

 

[Antares]

OP it sounds like they've got you on the right track. If you really wanted to use clicks the Strelok Pro app allows output in clicks.

Strelok isn't available for download anymore because the designer is in Russia and the government stopped all payments to Russia due to Ukraine.

Jay

Shooter outputs clicks. Just FYI.

 

[Macintosh]

As does applied ballistics, you can toggle it on or off in the settings.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

For big game shots up to 400 yards, you should not be dialing. It is totally unnecessary. Study your ballistics and point blank ranges. Use a holdover reticle if you like, but no need to dial at the specified ranges.

OP. I would advise against going with this advice especially with your lack of experience with long range shooting.

Get a good and solid/repeatable 100 yard zero on your gun. If you don’t have access to a chronograph to know your actual MV there are ways to “true” the MV we can walk you through.

Lots of folks have their elevation turret “dialed” to 200 before they start the hunt. That way, any shot from 100 yards to 300ish yards will have minimal holds to “skip dialing”. I don’t do this, but it works well for some guys and gals.

What reticle and scope are you using?

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Hi Jay,
You are very right. I checked my numbers in the JBM ballastics calc and got something very different.
I'm using factory Hornady Precision Hunter 6.5 creedmoor. 143 gr eldx out of a Tikka t3x hunter. Here's what I get with JBM. I'm going to print this and take to the range to check at 300 and 400 yards.

Is your hunter model the 22” or 24” barrel? 2,700 would be towards the fast side for the 24” barrel. Depending on barrel length you’ll be high 2500s to high 2,600s most likely.

 

[Hnthrdr]

Okay, without having an exposed turret for dialing elevation I would advise against doing so. Returning to zero could be very, very problematic, maybe figure out your MPBR and roll with all shots inside of that.

 

[eric1115]

KHntr--I'm using an old vx3. It doesn't have CDS dials, just taking of the cap and cranking. Is that wrong?

Can you post a photo of your turret? Are you open to considering replacing your scope?

I would be hesitant to try and dial this scope, and if it's one of the way older ones without resettable turrets there's no way I'd recommend it.

With that scope, here would be my inclination (and what I used to do back in the dark ages of friction turrets with caps)...

With a 100 yard zero confirmed, aim at a piece of target paper that has grid lines marked every 1" and measure the distance from the center of the cross-hair to top of the thick post where it transitions to the finer line. This is often between 4-6 MOA.

I would 100% rather have, say, 5 and 2.5 MOA reference points (top of post and mid point between there and cross-hair) vs taking the cap off and dialing an old VX3 for individual shots.

OP, there appears to be a bit more going on here that needs to be sorted out, but I think a holding solution is a more appropriate path to pursue as we help sort it out vs trying to figure out how to dial that scope.

 

[Macintosh]

Ah, I thought you had a scope made to dial. With a Regular point and shoot scope, dont plan to dial. Its certainly possible, but that particular scope doesnt have an easily repeatable marking to assist in returning to zero, and the clicks arent super tactile, so theres a very realistic chance you lose your zero. Given the scope Id zero at 200 yards and leave it, and try to get within 250 yards for a shot. If you practice at 250-300 with that setup you’ll probably be able to stretch your range to 300 if needed, but Id personally try to stay closer. My wife has used a scope like this to take antelope several times now, it works. We’ve also never had to take a shot longer than 250 yards, and she’s always been able to get inside 200. That depends a lot on exactly where you are hunting, but its very realistic even in some seemingly very open country. It’ll make the hunt a little more challenging, and if its a halfway decent unit that might be even more fun.

 

[wildfish]

Again, amazing help with zero "you idiot" comments. Thank you so much (esp Macintosh). I had NO idea that I wasn't meant to spin the elevation dial. I thought all old school scope turrets were spin-able in the field (I mean, I know they CAN spin, but I guess it isn't really done). I will make a dope chart and then zero at 100, move the point of aim to 200, and shoot nothing over 250 yards. Most shots in this area are between 88-250 yards anyway. I have a week to pull the trigger, so I'll be judicious. Thank you all so, so much

 

[Hnthrdr]

No worries man, we all started somewhere. Good place to learn, ask all day about gear, tactics, shooting, just avoid the “i got a tag I know nothing about”can someone tell me what drainage to hunt? Those draw some ridicule haha

 

[wildfish]

For sure. I've been hunting forever. Lots of deer under my belt. Just never have to shoot more than 100 yards! I'm all dialed in on location. It's just a matter of getting the ballistics right. Again thanks