Dry graphite before seating bullet

[Foster_65]

Wondering if anyone is seeing any results on target from using dry neck line prior to bullet seating. I have been using it for a few years and some of my tests are showing lower es and sd. I also notice about 10 fps decrease in velocity when I use it vs not using it. It def makes my bullets feel like they are seating smooth and consistant. Seat depths are very consistant. I’m getting sick of that step in the process and I wonder if it’s really needed. I don’t hear it talked about a ton but there are enough people that are doing it claiming great results. Is it common practice for you guys. Does it make any difference on target to say 800-1000 yards? Is it worth the extra step in your opinion?

 

[Presis Skyter]

I never tried the graphite but I think another factor in if it’s beneficial or not is if you are using cleaned brass. I used to always clean my brass with an ultra sonic cleaner but found that cleaning the brass caused more friction in seating my bullets. Now unless they land in the dirt I just wipe them and I think it has a similar affect to what the graphite would.

 

[Wiscgunner]

I do not do this for fresh ammo but am experimenting with it for stored ammo to avoid neck welding that jumps my ES up. I notice a difference in ES after as little as a week of sitting. I use really clean brash though so I will also need to get over my OCD and load dirty brass to keep the carbon in the neck

 

[coast range]

I’ve had some new brass that was very snug and was rolling each bullet in graphite. Just went for it didnt do a bunch of research was just trying to get a firing on the brass.

 

[Foster_65]

I never tried the graphite but I think another factor in if it’s beneficial or not is if you are using cleaned brass. I used to always clean my brass with an ultra sonic cleaner but found that cleaning the brass caused more friction in seating my bullets. Now unless they land in the dirt I just wipe them and I think it has a similar affect to what the graphite would.

I have also noticed this with wet tumbled brass. I now anneal, size, wipe of lube then dry tumble to insure all lube is off. I think annealing burns off a lot of carbon residue but not all.

 

[TimberHunter]

I’ve tested with and without and my ES/SD/group was no better with it so I am not using it currently.

I’m learning less is more with reloading. Size, clean lube off (rag with alcohol), cut to length only if over max, primer, powder, seat bullet


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[Shooter Mike]

I’ve tested with and without and my ES/SD/group was no better with it so I am not using it currently.

I’m learning less is more with reloading. Size, clean lube off (rag with alcohol), cut to length only if over max, primer, powder, seat bullet


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same.

 

[Kimber7man]

I use dry neck lube when sizing and then wipe it off the outside of the neck but leave the inside alone. Seating is smooth.

 

[cornchuck]

I have been dipping the necks of my brass in graphite media right before I drop the powder in my cases for about 15 years. I was always concerned of brass welding. My loaded rounds would sit for months before I got to fire it. Never had I problem until this year. I loaded up 300 rounds for my 243 Win for groundhog season. I was always around 3085fps shooting 90TMK with 43.8grs. of H4350. My velocity started out at my average speed and then started to go up after about 3 rounds. I was getting speeds up over 3100-3150fps. Faster than I wanted. And the accuracy isn't as good.

I mentioned this on another forum. Where I also said that I used about 2 1lb. containers of H4350. Some was saying different lot numbers. I have mixed different lots before and never noticed that much of a change.

Then it dawned on me. One thing I did different was dip the bullets in the graphite media instead the necks. I'm wondering if there was too much lube on to bullets to get that speed.

We will see if this is true. Because I did the same thing with my 308 cases. But I haven't shot it yet.

Jason

 

[Foster_65]

I have heard about bullet weld after sitting. If you were to load and shoot within a few weeks, is there a functional difference in accuracy? I generally notice about 10 fps more without and a bit higher sd but not sure how much it actually matters on target.

 

[MallardSX2]

I’m guessing this isn’t the crowd to admit that sometimes my bullets get “shaved” by the case a bit when I stuff them? Lmfao

 

[HuntHarder]

I am testing using moly on my necks this week. Loaded up 10 rounds of moly'd and 10 rounds. Non moly'd. Felt slightly smoother on the bullet seating, but could have all been in my head.

 

[Sylvaneous69]

Wondering if anyone is seeing any results on target from using dry neck line prior to bullet seating. I have been using it for a few years and some of my tests are showing lower es and sd. I also notice about 10 fps decrease in velocity when I use it vs not using it. It def makes my bullets feel like they are seating smooth and consistant. Seat depths are very consistant. I’m getting sick of that step in the process and I wonder if it’s really needed. I don’t hear it talked about a ton but there are enough people that are doing it claiming great results. Is it common practice for you guys. Does it make any difference on target to say 800-1000 yards? Is it worth the extra step in your opinion?

I’ve tested with and without and my ES/SD/group was no better with it so I am not using it currently.

I’m learning less is more with reloading. Size, clean lube off (rag with alcohol), cut to length only if over max, primer, powder, seat bullet


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have to agree with Timberhunter. Except for competitive shooting, if you can even tease-out real data, that would be tough. Remember the Capitalist ocean in which we swim and the incentives therein. The force that brought forth all these wonderful advances and contraptions also has it's own interest in getting your money (and screen time and clicks) I'm a fisherman, and maybe worst of all, a FLYfisherman, which means there is a fair probability that I tie my own flies (I do) As I have gained in-the-field experience over these years, I have found that there are MANY products that produce NO significant, identifiable or defensible increases in performance: magic this, special that, machined aluminum instead of cast, $400 fly reels to basically hold coils of line and to retrieve fish that very, very rarely go over 2 pounds. Somethings do make a difference, some don't, many, you just can't tell. (colors of soft plastic baits for bass... some pros use like 3 max) But if you buy everything, the only one who loses it you (your $$$)
So there will ALWAYS be some product to sell, some procedure that requires it, and someone promoting that procedure, even if it is a small thing like graphite. I, and others like me from the past to the present, did the basics of reloading to get really good "sub MOA" accuracy (I only quote that because it is such a selling point. HEY, MY G I Joe guy has the Kung-Fu grip!!) AND this rifle says "sub-MOA!!) I expect your context is quite advanced, but if a less experienced person happens to read this, I don't want them to get spooked-off of reloading by the immense minutia possible in it. Until recently, no one in my family of relaoders EVER had a media cleaner, and our Reminton 660's, 700's (ADL and BDL) and A-Bolts shot great groups. Use the same brass shot the same # of times (this is even iffy), Watch your case dimensions. Watch your headspace, Find an opitmal bullet seating depth using the Hornady kit. I think every reloading manual has pretty much full reloading instructions in its introduction.

 

[Foster_65]

I am testing using moly on my necks this week. Loaded up 10 rounds of moly'd and 10 rounds. Non moly'd. Felt slightly smoother on the bullet seating, but could have all been in my head.

Interested in your results. Please post back your findings.

 

[Foster_65]

I have to agree with Timberhunter. Except for competitive shooting, if you can even tease-out real data, that would be tough. Remember the Capitalist ocean in which we swim and the incentives therein. The force that brought forth all these wonderful advances and contraptions also has it's own interest in getting your money (and screen time and clicks) I'm a fisherman, and maybe worst of all, a FLYfisherman, which means there is a fair probability that I tie my own flies (I do) As I have gained in-the-field experience over these years, I have found that there are MANY products that produce NO significant, identifiable or defensible increases in performance: magic this, special that, machined aluminum instead of cast, $400 fly reels to basically hold coils of line and to retrieve fish that very, very rarely go over 2 pounds. Somethings do make a difference, some don't, many, you just can't tell. (colors of soft plastic baits for bass... some pros use like 3 max) But if you buy everything, the only one who loses it you (your $$$)
So there will ALWAYS be some product to sell, some procedure that requires it, and someone promoting that procedure, even if it is a small thing like graphite. I, and others like me from the past to the present, did the basics of reloading to get really good "sub MOA" accuracy (I only quote that because it is such a selling point. HEY, MY G I Joe guy has the Kung-Fu grip!!) AND this rifle says "sub-MOA!!) I expect your context is quite advanced, but if a less experienced person happens to read this, I don't want them to get spooked-off of reloading by the immense minutia possible in it. Until recently, no one in my family of relaoders EVER had a media cleaner, and our Reminton 660's, 700's (ADL and BDL) and A-Bolts shot great groups. Use the same brass shot the same # of times (this is even iffy), Watch your case dimensions. Watch your headspace, Find an opitmal bullet seating depth using the Hornady kit. I think every reloading manual has pretty much full reloading instructions in its introduction.

My concern is not the dollars, it’s more about time. I’m trying to eliminate unnecessary steps that have little to no significance. I do notice a difference in searing pressure with graphite and see my speeds increase without it. In my tests it seems like I see a slight, slight decrease in accuracy however I haven’t tested a large enough data set with a known rifle/ load to be certain. I thought folks here may have. I mostly use graphite because I anneal after every firing, size then tumble in dry media to remove lube. I used to never anneal and only wipe lube with a rag alcohol. This left a fair amount of carbon in the necks acting much like the graphite. Since I now anneal and tumble a lot of the carbon is removed from the heat and tumbling so I added the graphite to help add back that carbon element.


Maybe if I pose my reloading process folks can critique it. My purpose is longish range shooting. 600-1000 yards. Prone.
Assuming brass is all fire formed my process is as followed when get back to the reloading room
1. Anneal
2 resize. Full length bushing
3 wipe off lube and tumble for 30ish min
4 prime
5 graphite dip
6 throw, weigh charge (charge master supreme)
7 seat bullet

Is there steps in my process that can be eliminated. I will say I to trim after around d 3-4 loadings or when they get to max case length. I’ve considered adding a mandrel step for more consistency but am hesitant to add more steps if not needed. I feel that may be diminishing returns from what I’ve read. I am using adg, lapua or Peterson brass in an effort to avoid the need for mandrel

 

[greyghostnw]

I have been dipping the necks of my brass in graphite media right before I drop the powder in my cases for about 15 years. I was always concerned of brass welding. My loaded rounds would sit for months before I got to fire it. Never had I problem until this year. I loaded up 300 rounds for my 243 Win for groundhog season. I was always around 3085fps shooting 90TMK with 43.8grs. of H4350. My velocity started out at my average speed and then started to go up after about 3 rounds. I was getting speeds up over 3100-3150fps. Faster than I wanted. And the accuracy isn't as good.

I mentioned this on another forum. Where I also said that I used about 2 1lb. containers of H4350. Some was saying different lot numbers. I have mixed different lots before and never noticed that much of a change.

Then it dawned on me. One thing I did different was dip the bullets in the graphite media instead the necks. I'm wondering if there was too much lube on to bullets to get that speed.

We will see if this is true. Because I did the same thing with my 308 cases. But I haven't shot it yet.

Jason

if you mix containers even same lot you just introduced different humidity conditions. That in doing so introduces variance weight and shows in velocity. If doing so let sit for a few months occasionally mixing to help balance condition and balance moisture and other variance in making powderIn my experience doing so its the best way to achieve any usable use of left over containers of like powder. I absolutely use imperial dry inside necks with q tips. Seating force is near .0005 in doing so. With all other practices being redundant equals results on target. Good luck.

 

[BBob]

1. Anneal
2 resize. Full length bushing
3 wipe off lube and tumble for 30ish min
4 prime
5 graphite dip
6 throw, weigh charge (charge master supreme)
7 seat bullet

Is there steps in my process that can be eliminated.

 

[PanhandlePilgrim]

I've only seen a benefit if the brass is overly cleaned when tumbling in wet media where is removes the carbon from the necks. I had some leftover .204 rounds from a ground squirrel shoot that became extremely over pressured. This is where I found out about cold welding. Bare brass will fuse with the copper jacket over time and create hellacious pressure problems (it broke the extractor spring in my Savage action.)
The solution i got from the accurateshooter forum was to dirty the necks using graphite. It worked like a charm and I've never had an issue since, especially now since I don't wet tumble anymore.

 

[Foster_65]

I've only seen a benefit if the brass is overly cleaned when tumbling in wet media where is removes the carbon from the necks. I had some leftover .204 rounds from a ground squirrel shoot that became extremely over pressured. This is where I found out about cold welding. Bare brass will fuse with the copper jacket over time and create hellacious pressure problems (it broke the extractor spring in my Savage action.)
The solution i got from the accurateshooter forum was to dirty the necks using graphite. It worked like a charm and I've never had an issue since, especially now since I don't wet tumble anymore.

I also eliminated wet tumbling for the reason of necks being to clean as well as the hating to have to chamfer after every cleaning

 

[Foster_65]

Has anyone noticed a difference in speeds on consecutively loaded brass if not annealing? Would i see any difference if I anneal after say 4 firings? I still want to keep brass life as well as consistency. Annealing doesn’t take to long but it is a step I have considered removing. I have just been scared that after each reload I would see slight increases in velocity due to hardening. I have been hesitant to test cuz what I do now is working so I’m just keeping it the same. If anyone has seen or tested this please let me know.