Does this make sense

[GregB]

I had noticed my arrows were impacting consistently left and I could tell they were not flying straight. They were all 350 spine victory vforce and BE renegade cut 30” and 30 5/8” respectively, about 300 grains total up front. I grabbed one of my compound arrows rip tko 300 spine 28” put a 200 grain head on w/ 75 grain insert and it flew great. Went and shot through paper all the 350s were considerably weak after raising the nock point the rip shot bullet holes at 6’ and 15’, I also had bohning bronco vanes on the rip. Bow is 58# at my draw 28” off an elevated rest. I’m not gonna turn my nose up at a good flying arrow, I am surprised at how stiff a spine I needed and the fact that I was so underspined after I thought I had done a good job of bareshaft tuning. To really any trad folks around to talk to about it so I thought I’d get some thoughts here. But I guess if I shoot the bronco vanes off an elevated rest am I really “trad”.

 

[sneaky]

Well, I shoot 300gr up front on a 31.5" arrow out of a 55@31 recurve and I shoot 350 spines. How far past center is your riser cut? You can shoot some pretty stiff arrows out of some risers with a substantial center cut.

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[GregB]

It’s a stalker so 3/16” past center. With the elevated rest the arrow is just outside the string when I eyeball it.

 

[sneaky]

It’s a stalker so 3/16” past center. With the elevated rest the arrow is just outside the string when I eyeball it.

Which Stalker? He cuts different models differently past center. You have a Wolverine? My Coyote is only 1/16" past center I believe.

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[GregB]

Which Stalker? He cuts different models differently past center. You have a Wolverine? My Coyote is only 1/16" past center I believe.

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It’s a Wolverine.

 

[oldgoat]

Shoot some broadheads and see if they fly good, that's the real benchmark for tuning! If they fly good, you're golden!

 

[Kentucky]

Shoot some broadheads and see if they fly good, that's the real benchmark for tuning! If they fly good, you're golden!

this is best advice, I’ve chased bareshafts, for hours before, I ha e a Toelke whistler, hard side plate, hard base plate, if I’m not perfect every time the bare shaft will give false readings... I mean perfect..

Broadheads however, clean up nicely and still require a good release, but a flier is 3-6” off rather that 12”..

 

[Beendare]

I agree with Sneaky....my ILF bows cut past center need a stiff arrow.

49#, 31" 340's with 225 up front....but those limbs I'm shooting really spit an arrow out...also requiring heavier spine.

 

[GregB]

Yeah I think I’m going to have to stay away from tuning w/ bare-shaft, shooting paper gave me the most accurate results, don’t know why I didn’t try that before. Gonna try to shoot some broad heads later today. And it looks like I have one set of arrows that will work for my compound and recurve. Thanks for the replies.

 

[ledflight]

Have you tried the slow motion video features on your smart phone?
To be clear, I am only a few years into trad archery but most phones these days can do 120 fps clearly which I think can show some good details of the shot

 

[GregB]

Have you tried the slow motion video features on your smart phone?
To be clear, I am only a few years into trad archery but most phones these days can do 120 fps clearly which I think can show some good details of the shot

Tried it on my iPhone and it was pretty hard to see the arrow and how it was flying. Shot some broad heads today and they flew well. There was some corkscrewing a few times but I am sure it was operator induced.

 

[Beendare]

There was some corkscrewing a few times but I am sure it was operator induced.

Yeah, I have the same problem- inconsistency- trying to deduce tuning with a stick bow. Its better now-a-days as my form has improved and I can feel when I make a bad release....so I toss bad shots out...not using those to analyze tune.

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