Does annealing or crimping mean start load development from scratch?

Wodez

FNG
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
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Hi people
I have been having some issues with my groups. I thought I would try annealing. Just a backyarder job. blow torch and drill for 7 seconds. I am yet to confirm but is it possible that it made a group worse? 300wm with rem brass. Should I try a little more or less powder to compensate for the

also I am considering getting a neck crimping die to hopefully help tighten up some inconsistencies for 300wm and 243. Would I have to start load development again... or just use my existing load and try different neck tensions?
Thanks
 
I would recommend pumping the brakes for a second.

There is nothing to be gained from a crimping die in a precision rifle cartridge. What is your reloading process and what were your group sizes?
 
I thought consistent neck tension was good for accuracy. Is it neck tension from Turing the necks I should be concerned about? Not crimp?

I hydrosonic clean, full length size, trim, seat to suit magazine for 300wm and short of lands for 243.
Groups can go from 1/4moa one day to 1.2moa the next.
 
I thought consistent neck tension was good for accuracy. Is it neck tension from Turing the necks I should be concerned about? Not crimp?

I hydrosonic clean, full length size, trim, seat to suit magazine for 300wm and short of lands for 243.
Groups can go from 1/4moa one day to 1.2moa the next.
There are a variety of factors, the fact that your groups are varying by a margin of 1 MOA tells me that you need to look at your entire process, a crimping die or annealing your brass will not fix that.

Are you measuring your cartridges by overall length or by base to ogive? If not using base to ogive I’d recommend switching to base to ogive right away. When full length sizing how much are you bumping the shoulders? Should be bumping them back .002”. You can anneal your necks to prevent work hardening but if you’re going to do that get some 750* tempilaq to make sure you’re not burning the brass or not putting enough heat on the cases.

If you’re concerned with neck tension, you can switch to a full length bushing die to set your neck tension.

IMO neck turning is not something to concern yourself with at this time.
 
Do you have a chronograph? Might be worth seeing if you are experiencing large velocity swings between loads.

I do not think crimping will help. It just adds another variable. And it’s not common for precision shooting.


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No chronograph but I have put 3 of each through one a while ago. 243 had a spread of 13fps but the 300wm had a spread of 40.

I am measuring overall length. If I switch to measuring to ogive is that to make that measurement more consistent? Do I adjust seating die back a little, seat bullet, measure ogive, then adjust seating die down a little bit by big to get each bullet seated to the same ogive depth?
These are the dies I have. What brand and specific set should I be looking for?
 

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The above links are one article in two parts from Bryan Litz, if you're not familiar with Bryan Litz, he is the end all be all of knowledge when it comes to ballistics.

So when it comes to seating to CBTO I will explain what I do, others may do something different but this is what has worked for me.

I use a Hornady OAL Gauge (which will need a modifief case) and Hornady Bullet Comparator. I usually start by finding the lands with the OAL gauge, modified case, and whatever bullet I intend to use. I will lock that in and measure with the comparator attached to my calipers. I typically repeat this about 5 times to make sure I get a consistent measurement.

One thing that you should know when you are doing this is also the base to ogive measurement of the bullet you are using. I can tell you from first hand experience that Berger VLD's vary. Usually when I buy a new box of bullets I try to sort them by ogive measurement to make sure everything is consistent. I just put them in bins or cheap IKEA Tupperware with a note taped on it for the measurement. This is not necessary in hunting ammo, I do it because I'm chasing tight groups, low SD's and like to shoot long range, too.

Once I know the measurement to the lands I back the bullet off some for my seating depth. A good starting point is usually .020" off the lands. Some bullets will like it closer and some further, if you are loading Barnes then start at .050" off the lands.

This is where a chrono comes in handy because you first want to find an accuracy node in your powder charge and having the speed helps you find if you are on track or not. You don't need to invest in a lab radar, a pro chrono or Magneto Speed sporter would do great.

When you have found the powder charge your rifle likes, you can start to tune the seating depth. You can start at .005" of the lands and back it off in .005" increments, so .005", .010", .015", etc.

If you keep notes and track all of the data you are going to find a load that is extremely accurate in your rifle.

Just a thought, in terms of neck tension, I'd recommend you take the expander ball out of your sizing dies and invest in a Sinclair expander mandrel with the appropriate sized mandrel for your caliber. I've got a 300 WSM that I'm F/L sizing with a standard RCBS die and expanding the neck with a mandrel. It is a consistent .25" gun with SD's in the 4s.
 
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