DIY Sleeping Platform w/ Bin Storage

Joined
May 6, 2021
Messages
306
Location
Colorado
Somebody tell me I’m crazy. I’ve got a 1992 Toyota 4Runner and I want to build a sleeping platform for it.

I’ve slept in the back while hunting before, but it’s pretty cramped trying to get all the gear and my sleeping setup in there. What I want to do is build a platform that I can slide gear and tote bins under - effectively giving me some storage space under the sleeping setup.

I am not handy. I have little more than a basic toolbox. I’m also not looking to spend much money on this - all prefabricated options are expensive, and it doesn’t make sense to pay a handyman to build this for me. I've seen some pretty nice DIY builds, but I don't have the skill for that level of effort, nor do I want to spend the money.

I really think this works, though. Anyone see any big challenges or problems with this design that I haven’t thought out?

DESIGN LIMITATIONS
  • The floor to ceiling height is 31”. Assuming the platform takes up 8” total, that leaves 23” of headroom for my sleeping pad and myself - seems like plenty.
  • The maximum length for the platform is 70”. This is the distance from the front seat-backs to the inside edge of the back tailgate. This does include some overhang into the back seat footwell, though.
  • I plan for a 30” width (although the maximum width could have been 35”).
  • The maximum footprint for the legs is 57” x 30”. At the front, the legs have to be pulled back from the footwell. At the back, there’s a small “cliff” at the edge, so I’ve pulled the legs back from that, too.
  • This leaves an overhang of 6.5” from the head and foot of the plywood to the legs at those corners. The legs will be flush to the edge widthways, though.
  • Longest span between legs is 30” along the width and 28.5” along the length.
  • I considered 4x4 legs (cheapest, but heavy), 2x4 legs (most expensive because of angle brackets), and PVC legs (mid-priced, but lightweight). I decided against 2x4s with angle brackets because of the cost and against 4x4s because of the weight, so I’m planning to use PVC pipe for legs.

PARTS
  • Sandeply 18mm sanded plywood (3/4" x 4' x 8'), $66, cut to 70" x 30" to fit in the back hatch of the 4Runner. This is a smooth faced, interior plywood that is safe to sleep on once sealed.
  • 180 grit sandpaper, $6, for sanding the plywood before sealant and the PVC legs before cementing. (No, I don’t even have sandpaper.)
  • Varathane sealant, $26, sealing the plywood will reduce VOCs and protect against moisture.
  • Charlotte 2" Schedule 40 PVC, $14, cut to 7” segments. I plan a minimum of 6 legs, but might go with 7 or 8.
  • PVC table leg cap fittings, $20, to attach the PVC legs to the plywood and to act as feet at the bottom.
  • PVC primer and cement, $11, to weld the PVC pipe to the leg cap fittings.
  • Screws and washers, $10, to attach the leg cap fittings to the plywood deck.
TOTAL PARTS COST $155

Here’s a drawing. Roast me.

Screenshot 2025-06-28 at 12.00.02 PM.png

Random additional note: I might even get a 4" - 6" foam mattress custom fabricated by https://www.foambymail.com as well. My super plush Exped Megamat is like 78" long, so it wouldn't fit in the 4Runner. If anyone ever wants to have a foam mattress fit to a specific size, this looks like a good option.
 
Nice @mtnwrunner! What height did you go with? And it looks like maybe you’re using 3” or 4” PVC?

I hadn’t considered building a whole frame of PVC and setting the plywood on top. I would think that will cost more in materials than mounting PVC legs right on the plywood. Probably works better, though.

What did you use to carpet the plywood? Just wrap it around and staple underneath?
 
2.5 inch pvc and from floor to pvc is 10 inches. Just used a Boise State blue outdoor carpet, glued and stapled. I also made it modular in 3 pieces so I could adapt to different needs and loads. Velcro on top of pipe and corresponding Velcro on plywood.

Randy
 
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