DIY E-Boiler for Euro Skulls

[SteveAndTheCrigBoys]

I bought a cheap propane burner for this job and just use a stock pot with it.

That's what I've done in the past. Haven't seen it perform the way that Grakksaw e-boiler does. Hence the thread about imitating it in a DIY setup that's 1/5 the cost.

 

[N.ID7803]

View attachment 989933
Sous vide -hefty tote-plastic wrap

How big is that tote? Obviously, big enough for two deer skulls, so probably an elk or moose skull as well?

 

[NV HUNTER]

How big is that tote? Obviously, big enough for two deer skulls, so probably an elk or moose skull as well?

I am not sure how big it is . I have a couple different ones . I use a smaller one for whitening . But I would assume an elk skull would fit.

 

[Qholum37]

I have been wanting to do something like this after seeing some of Ryan Olsen's (whitebonecreations) recent videos using that E-Boiler. I've done quite a few skulls using his techniques and they have turned out great. This way definitely seems like the easy button though.

I ended up getting the 1500W version of the same heater that the OP posted a link of. I built a box today to insulate and house my big turkey pot that I do elk skulls in. I initially started using the Great Stuff Fire Block spray foam, but I ended up running out and didn't feel like making another trip to Home Depot. It is also kind of spendy at $10/can and would have required about 6 cans for this 20"x20" box. I had some R15 insulation on hand and ended up using that around the sides. So, Fire Block spray foam on the bottom which is rated for 240 degrees and fiberglass insulation around the sides which is rated for 850 degrees. Both insulations are obviously rated way above what this will see so should be good there. The plywood that contacts the pot should also be good as long as I don't take it up near 200 degrees which I won't be doing.

I heated it up to about 110 degrees and the heater worked great. Decided to shut it off and let the foam fully cure before trying to get it up to 170 degrees. I'll fire it up tomorrow and see how it does at that temp and post back here, but I think it should work fine.

 

[N.ID7803]

@Qholum37 did you just lay the heater in the bottom or ?

 

[Qholum37]

@Qholum37 did you just lay the heater in the bottom or ?

Yea I will come up with something to make it stay put. The brick idea that someone mentioned in this thread sounds like a simple way to do it! I thought about mounting it on the side, but I think having it in the bottom would be best.

 

[2rsquared]

I just use one of those black & gold plastic totes, fill it with water to the antler bases and set it out in the hot Texas sun.

The black tote absorbs the heat and using my laser thermometer, the water temps got over 120 degrees.

Yes, it took longer (3 weeks) at the lower temperatures. Just change the water once a week to keep the smell down.

On the 4th week, started the degreasing phase using Dawn and 20 Mule Team Borax. Let it soak for a couple weeks then take it out and dry in the sun.

No need to use 40 volume peroxide or any other additional whiteners.

To me, the finished product is more natural looking and not as brittle if you try to speed up the process by boiling, simmering or using bleach or peroxide.

If you live in a colder climate, the plastic tote, a cheap disposable aluminum foil pan in the bottom and a water tank heater/de-icer is all you need.