DIY barrel cut & crown?

[LargeAvos]

I recently picked up a Peak 44 stock for my Weatherby Vanguard 6.5 CM. After a couple seasons of hauling a 9.6lb gun around I want to give a good budget conscious attempt at lightening it up.

With the new stock it’s at 8lb4.5oz without the sling or pic rail I may or may not add.

I hunt with the rifle strapped to my pack with the FHF quick detach sling and have often thought about how nice it would be to not have a flagpole sticking up past my pack. I currently have the factory 24” barrel and have started to wonder the secondary effects of lightning up the rifle by removing 4-5” from the barrel. I hunt 400 yards and in and I don’t believe cutting my barrel would hinder my ability to remain lethal at these distances.

I am new to firearm modifications like this but have seen/read many people doing it on other forums and YouTube and feel confident in my ability to cut and crown the barrel myself.

Posting this to see if I’m missing anything or if you have any advice..

 

[BLJ]

Probably a little more simplistic approach than you’re looking for.
I used a hacksaw with a hose clamp for a guide. Finished the crown with a file and ball stone in a drill.
The group is an after picture. 3” green dot.
I believe the far right hole is my second shot.
I lost about an ounce per inch from a Tikka T3x.

My advice would be do your research, take your time and don’t overthink it.
IMO the bullet doesn’t spend enough time at the crown to be affected by it that much.
Once again, IMO. Good luck.

 

[gentleman4561]

I don't think it will cause any issues, however, I would go ahead and get a gunsmith to do it so that you can have it threaded to allow the use of a silencer.

 

[mt100gr.]

That's about 5" of kimber 6.5mm barrel.
Recessed the crown with a 1/2" drill bit and polished.

 

[Mtnmilsurp]

I cut my own barrel down with a hacksaw, file, and 11 degree crown cutter. No big deal. Rifle is just as accurate as before.

 

[Steve300xcw]

zip wheel and a portaband for me. Clean up the edge a touch and send it. No issues yet.

 

[Wrench]

Melvin forbes used a ball burr.

 

[ElPollo]

I recently picked up a Peak 44 stock for my Weatherby Vanguard 6.5 CM. After a couple seasons of hauling a 9.6lb gun around I want to give a good budget conscious attempt at lightening it up.

With the new stock it’s at 8lb4.5oz without the sling or pic rail I may or may not add.

I hunt with the rifle strapped to my pack with the FHF quick detach sling and have often thought about how nice it would be to not have a flagpole sticking up past my pack. I currently have the factory 24” barrel and have started to wonder the secondary effects of lightning up the rifle by removing 4-5” from the barrel. I hunt 400 yards and in and I don’t believe cutting my barrel would hinder my ability to remain lethal at these distances.

I am new to firearm modifications like this but have seen/read many people doing it on other forums and YouTube and feel confident in my ability to cut and crown the barrel myself.

Posting this to see if I’m missing anything or if you have any advice..

That’s awesome that the stock took 1# 5 oz off your gun. The only real downside to cutting the barrel will be increased muzzle blast which can be offset with a good titanium suppressor. If you plan to suppress, shorter is better. If not, 20” is a good compromise between portability and muzzle blast. That stock was on a 16” 6.5 cm that I used an AB Raptor 8-stack suppressor on. Still had plenty of speed for the distances you are hunting at. Can’t remember the weight off the top of my head, but I think it was about 8-8.2# with a 20 oz scope mounted and the suppressor.

 

[JBradley500]

If you look at my recent post history I took 6 inches off my 308 and it wasn't difficult, ended up looking good, and didn't change how the rifle shoots.

 

[LargeAvos]

That’s awesome that the stock took 1# 5 oz off your gun. The only real downside to cutting the barrel will be increased muzzle blast which can be offset with a good titanium suppressor. If you plan to suppress, shorter is better. If not, 20” is a good compromise between portability and muzzle blast. That stock was on a 16” 6.5 cm that I used an AB Raptor 8-stack suppressor on. Still had plenty of speed for the distances you are hunting at. Can’t remember the weight off the top of my head, but I think it was about 8-8.2# with a 20 oz scope mounted and the suppressor.

I’m looking to go down to about 18”. Unfortunately in the very “free” west (CA) suppressors aren’t an option. If I want to add a brake at a later time then I’ll have a smith bring it down a bit shorter and thread it but for now muzzle blast isn’t too much of a concern. I frequently (like most I’d imagine) don’t put on ear pro on for a quick shot hunting and because of this hesitate to put a brake on.

 

[LargeAvos]

I currently have a 23oz scope but it sits on top of a 20 moa rail and pic rings. It’s too high and on my previous stock I had a kydex cheek riser to compensate.

@ElPollo did you have any luck with scope mounts on your previous Howa 1500? I’d hate to add all that back on this stock just to get a good cheek weld and add additional weight.

I know the talley’s have a bad reputation and I’m not looking to risk it.

 

[ElPollo]

I’m looking to go down to about 18”. Unfortunately in the very “free” west (CA) suppressors aren’t an option. If I want to add a brake at a later time then I’ll have a smith bring it down a bit shorter and thread it but for now muzzle blast isn’t too much of a concern. I frequently (like most I’d imagine) don’t put on ear pro on for a quick shot hunting and because of this hesitate to put a brake on.

That’s a bummer on the suppressor, but I would not want to be anywhere near an 18” barrel with a break. That starts getting to the point where even the ear pro won’t keep you from getting hearing damage.

 

[ElPollo]

I currently have a 23oz scope but it sits on top of a 20 moa rail and pic rings. It’s too high and on my previous stock I had a kydex cheek riser to compensate.

@ElPollo did you have any luck with scope mounts on your previous Howa 1500? I’d hate to add all that back on this stock just to get a good cheek weld and add additional weight.

I know the talley’s have a bad reputation and I’m not looking to risk it.

I used the Burris steel 2-piece picatinny mounts with Warne Mountain Tech rings. It’s about the lowest and strongest option you will find.

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

 

[SDHNTR]

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Probably a little more simplistic approach than you’re looking for.
I used a hacksaw with a hose clamp for a guide. Finished the crown with a file and ball stone in a drill.
The group is an after picture. 3” green dot.
I believe the far right hole is my second shot.
I lost about an ounce per inch from a Tikka T3x.

My advice would be do your research, take your time and don’t overthink it.
IMO the bullet doesn’t spend enough time at the crown to be affected by it that much.
Once again, IMO. Good luck.

I very much disagree. The crown is an incredibly important part of the barrel and a huge contributor or detractor to accuracy. It’s the last bit of support before the bullet is sent out the gun. I want my bullets flying straight. I’m certainly not trying to dissuade the OP from giving it a go DIY, but don’t for a second think a clean cut and evenly ground crown isn’t important.

 

[LargeAvos]

I used the Burris steel 2-piece picatinny mounts with Warne Mountain Tech rings. It’s about the lowest and strongest option you will find.

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

Stupid question: Does the Rem700 pic bases (the link that you sent) work with the Howa as well?

 

[ElPollo]

Stupid question: Does the Rem700 pic bases (the link that you sent) work with the Howa as well?

Yes, they fit the Howa 1500.

 

[Choupique]

Old man did one with a hacksaw and countersink bit. Still shoots great.

 

[BLJ]

I very much disagree. The crown is an incredibly important part of the barrel and a huge contributor or detractor to accuracy. It’s the last bit of support before the bullet is sent out the gun. I want my bullets flying straight. I’m certainly not trying to dissuade the OP from giving it a go DIY, but don’t for a second think a clean cut and evenly ground crown isn’t important.

Fair enough. And I’ll admit that a perfect crown should provide better accuracy.

My point was that I went from a factory Tikka crown to a hacksaw crown with no loss of accuracy.
My statement came from what I had researched and my experience with my personal rifle.