Dialing for Elevation/Windage with Capped Turrets?

gtriple

WKR
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Dumb question that I just cannot find an answer to while looking for the unicorn scope...

Assuming that the scope tracks and returns to zero correctly when dialed, which might be a tall assumption.

What are your thoughts on dialing a scope with capped turrets?


The why: I'm looking at the SWFA Ultralight scope for my mountain rifle (Wby Backcountry Ti). I'll try to close the distance and shoot within MPBR of my zero, but, if the circumstance arises, I may remove the cap to dial for elevation if I have time.
 
Dont know that scope, but Ive done it shooting steel targets with my hunting rifle. the only downside is the extra time to unscrew the cap (and not lose it), and the liklihood the internal dial is marked and set up in a way that isnt quite as easy to see numbers and then return to zero as it would be with an exposed turret thats designed for the purpose. Some of my scopes it would be a non-issue, others it could be problematic.
Also People have a hard enough time remembering to return to zero at the range when they dial, this may be easier since you also have to pick up the turret cover (maybe a sort of reminder?), but theres prob not a zero stop, large numbers, maybe not a way to set your dial to the numeral “0” when the scope is zeroed so you may be counting clicks with mittens on, etc. Im sure people do it successfully, just not something that I would personally want to rely on without knowing the particular scope. Id rather rely on a graduated reticle if I didnt have a turret that was conducive to dialing (covered or not).
 
Dumb question that I just cannot find an answer to while looking for the unicorn scope...

Assuming that the scope tracks and returns to zero correctly when dialed, which might be a tall assumption.

What are your thoughts on dialing a scope with capped turrets?


The why: I'm looking at the SWFA Ultralight scope for my mountain rifle (Wby Backcountry Ti). I'll try to close the distance and shoot within MPBR of my zero, but, if the circumstance arises, I may remove the cap to dial for elevation if I have time.
I had 2 ultralights and sold them both. I don’t think you will be happy with that scope on a long action. The eye relief is really short. Not an issue I guess if u put a rail and rings on but on a lightweight rifle like that I would be putting talley’s on it. I used a 3-10 forceplex SHV on my light rifle and it is a great combo. Has cappped turrets as well. Also shorter eye relief but much easier to get behind than the ultralight and would still look good on the WHBY
 
I do it, and prefer doing it vs holding over. If I'm shooting something far enough away that I have to dial windage, I'll typically have time to take off my cap and get a good wind reading. I wouldn't be shooting otherwise. At least at a critter.

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I have a trijcon 1-6 credo on my 350. Capped turrets but had no issues at all. Yep kills this year.

I agree with above comments. I’ve already lost the cap… and learn discipline to dial back down to zero right away
 
I have an old school nightforce SHV that has capped turrets and a zero stop, so I have never run into an issue dialing.

However, I am interested in finding a way to make it an exposed turret. I wish there was an easy way to convert them.
 
I have been trying to get a reasonably lightweight hunting scope with an elevation turret instead of reticle marks. It seems my choices are a $500 Leupold or a $1500 Swaro.
 
I have been trying to get a reasonably lightweight hunting scope with an elevation turret instead of reticle marks. It seems my choices are a $500 Leupold or a $1500 Swaro.
You might check out Trijicon’s offerings.
 
If you don’t care about drop tests, VX5hd, VX6HD, Vortex LHT , zeiss V4 are all in play for less than the swaro.
 
I shoot capped SHVs.It works fine. Usually if I have to dial I'm far enough away that I have time to take off the cap and setup the shot.

Practice good habits like resetting the zero always before you put the cap back on. Also write the rev number for the zero on a piece of tape and put inside the cap if you don't have a zero stop. This way you can double check you are on the right rev for zero.

Last thing is keep a very small amount of oil or wax on the cap threads. If you don't do this over time they get dry and will squeak when you take the cap off which you probably don't want when hunting.
 
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