Dial or not to dial

[Bcoonce117]

So I’ve never dialed my scope. Always just held higher. With that said I have a 2017 vortex viper hslr 4x16 44mm scope. Top turret is 1/2 moa adjustment. Do any of you ever have any problems dialing and returning to zero or this is something you check during practice?

 

[jjordan355]

Is this a zero stop scope? I have a couple of the newer viper PST gen 2 and have no problem dialing and returning to zero. Mine are MIL which are .1 adjustments. And the MOA version of my scope has 1/4 MOA adjustments which is pretty much the standard on scopes now days.

 

[Bcoonce117]

Yes it has shims to make it to where it can’t go beyond zero. It’s not exact stop at zero but it won’t go a full rotation. Maybe a couple clicks past zero. Ok maybe I’ll use it to dial in if I get a shot past 350 on an elk in Colorado

 

[SteveCNJ]

You should practice dialing at the range to validate the functionality and return to zero.

Sent from my SM-S936U using Tapatalk

 

[chuckD]

I always dial past 200. The return past zero on that scope will work, just go past then back to zero.

 

[mainbeam pursuit2]

I've had a couple of those scopes, now my son uses them. The two samples have dialed reliably in our practice and hunting. They haven't been dropped, so I'm not sure would happen if that occurred.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

I’m developing the habit of always dialing for elevation. It’s hard to break a lifetime spent using Kentucky methods, but having a mechanically reliable scope that operates just as well as the aperture sight on my battle rifle makes a world of difference.

I believe in having a rock solid 100-yard zero. From there, I feel the need to practice dialing at the range so I know how much to dial, but it’s also good to know the easy holds (200 and 300 yards). My goal is to be quick about dialing when I have the opportunity, but to be able to take the quick shot with a hold if I need to do that. My dope cards include the hold and the dialing on them.

 

[jjordan355]

Chrono your rifle, use a ballistics calculator for your exact bullet and speed from barrel. That will give you the drop at distance intervals and test that at the range to verify the info. Keep in mind that your velocity will change at elevation. Always good to recheck zero at altitude if there’s a large variance from the elevation you zero vs the elevation you hunt. If you change bullets or loads that will also reset all of the previous information you have.

There’s a couple good ballistics calculator you can use on an app on your phone. The Hornady one has been reliable for me. I verify all my distances at the range then make a card at 50 yard intervals. And set that as the background on my phone for the lock screen.

 

[NealS02]

I establish a 100 yard zero and then make sure that I have dope for dialing to every 50 yard increment out to 600 yards (the farthest range distance near me). I practice 50/50 dialing and holds with mil or moa using this information. I really believe that you need to be comfortable and practice both though you could get away with being proficient at one or the other.

 

[TheGDog]

I’m developing the habit of always dialing for elevation. It’s hard to break a lifetime spent using Kentucky methods, but having a mechanically reliable scope that operates just as well as the aperture sight on my battle rifle makes a world of difference.

I believe in having a rock solid 100-yard zero. From there, I feel the need to practice dialing at the range so I know how much to dial, but it’s also good to know the easy holds (200 and 300 yards). My goal is to be quick about dialing when I have the opportunity, but to be able to take the quick shot with a hold if I need to do that. My dope cards include the hold and the dialing on them.

Damn... ya know what? That's a darn good idea, including the number of clicks by which to adj on the dope card as well, as opposed to just the MOA number.