Deer Blind Ideas for the DIY guys

TxAggie15

FNG
Joined
May 29, 2023
Messages
27
With the prices off all the blinds these days it seems like the better play is to build your own. I built a 4x6 two man back in 2018 and the skin is starting to look raggedy. Thinking after this season it’s coming home for a make over. Blind is currently a 1” square tubing frame all welded with a 2” square base, skinned in half inch plywood. Here’s my dilemma:

1. Had a son back in 2022 and plan to start getting him out when he’s 3-4 years old. I know kids get side tracked easily and tend to get “bored”
2. Sell the blind completely and start from scratch to go bigger like a 6x6 on a 4 foot tower/skid?
3. Splice into the metal frame and expand it out another 2 feet?
4. Go for longevity and skin it in sheet metal and throw the pink insulation board on the inside to quiet it down so I’m not blowing ear drums out? Or go back with plywood and use a latex paint on the exterior.
 

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Torque

FNG
Joined
Oct 5, 2022
Messages
69
I made 2 4x8's skinned them in Tin and I love them. Easy hunting for me, and room for my 7 year old daughter to stretch out in a sleeping bag on the floor when she gets bored. Easy dimensions to build around too. Not so easy to get into the woods lol. I built it all with nut and bolts and painted numbers on all the parts. I disassembled it all to be able to build it back wherever I wanted instead of being limited to where I could drag it.
 
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TxAggie15

FNG
Joined
May 29, 2023
Messages
27
I made 2 4x8's skinned them in Tin and I love them. Easy hunting for me, and room for my 7 year old daughter to stretch out in a sleeping bag on the floor when she gets bored. Easy dimensions to build around too. Not so easy to get into the woods lol. I built it all with nut and bolts and painted numbers on all the parts. I disassembled it all to be able to build it back wherever I wanted instead of being limited to where I could drag it.
That was kinda my thought. If I keep it with simple dimensions to reduce amount of waste and put it on skids to drag it on and off the trailer since we’re leasing the land it needs to be easy to get out if the old man ever were to pass and our lease is lost. Just feel like starting from scratch I could remedy things I didn’t like about this one and keep from hacking this one to pieces to remodel.
 

Torque

FNG
Joined
Oct 5, 2022
Messages
69
My father is getting older and climbing ladders isn't something he can do very well anymore. The two stands I build are 10" to the base of the stand. I built two stair cases so he could hunt out of them with me when we get the chance. I mention this to say, pay attention to your scrap wood. The triangles I cut out of the stringers made excellent cup holders and at the same time made incredible stabilizers when placed in each corner. I used a solid triangle on bottom and used a hole saw to cut a cut a hole in the one I placed about 2" above the other.
 

WCB

WKR
Joined
Jun 12, 2019
Messages
3,640
I've used the T1-11 Plywood Sheathing on a couple stands. Paint it well and no issues. Hell my shed finally needs two of the sides replaced because of rot along the ground but the shed has been there for 15years. Well painted plywood will last plenty long.

4x6 for a semi portable would be perfect size. I just built my wife a 6x6 with a 2 foot deck on the front to hold the propane tank and make it easier to get in and out of especially with a kid (or two). IMO that would be on the big side for moving around and getting on and off a trailer.

Also, to quiet it down look at synthetic Jute Rug/carpet pad. Any stand I have been in with foam sheet insulation turns to junk. The pad will quiet it down probably as much and not take up the same amount of room. when you are dealing with a 4ft measurement on with a couple inches is noticeable imo.
 
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TxAggie15

FNG
Joined
May 29, 2023
Messages
27
I've used the T1-11 Plywood Sheathing on a couple stands. Paint it well and no issues. Hell my shed finally needs two of the sides replaced because of rot along the ground but the shed has been there for 15years. Well painted plywood will last plenty long.

4x6 for a semi portable would be perfect size. I just built my wife a 6x6 with a 2 foot deck on the front to hold the propane tank and make it easier to get in and out of especially with a kid (or two). IMO that would be on the big side for moving around and getting on and off a trailer.

Also, to quiet it down look at synthetic Jute Rug/carpet pad. Any stand I have been in with foam sheet insulation turns to junk. The pad will quiet it down probably as much and not take up the same amount of room. when you are dealing with a 4ft measurement on with a couple inches is noticeable imo.
Not a bad idea for the carpet padding. I considered just going stupid with it and adding to it year by year if I go the 6x6 route. Sheet metal skin, insulate/sound dampen the inside, feeling froggy cover the inside in 1/8” plywood. Then following year add solar to it for fans or phone chargers. Or go complete idiot and slap a window unit in there like tank blinds. Haha
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Messages
328
I have built a bunch of box blinds and found 6x6 to be the best size. It also works out really well with 8 foot sheets of material to cut down on waste.

I wouldn't use plywood if you are looking for longevity. Use LP SmartSide for your wall panels.

For an easy base use 4x4 elevator brackets to elevate a 6x8 base so that you have a porch off the back to make it easy to enter the blind.

I build everything at the house wall by wall and then assemble it in the field. blind.jpg
 
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TxAggie15

FNG
Joined
May 29, 2023
Messages
27
I have built a bunch of box blinds and found 6x6 to be the best size. It also works out really well with 8 foot sheets of material to cut down on waste.

I wouldn't use plywood if you are looking for longevity. Use LP SmartSide for your wall panels.

For an easy base use 4x4 elevator brackets to elevate a 6x8 base so that you have a porch off the back to make it easy to enter the blind.

I build everything at the house wall by wall and then assemble it in the field. View attachment 592560
Looks good! I am considering the porch. I will stick to metal tubing for the frame to cut weight of the wood. So it’s going to 100% be built at the house then moved. Still coming up with an idea so that I’m not 12’ tall on the trailer going there.
 

WCB

WKR
Joined
Jun 12, 2019
Messages
3,640
Not a bad idea for the carpet padding. I considered just going stupid with it and adding to it year by year if I go the 6x6 route. Sheet metal skin, insulate/sound dampen the inside, feeling froggy cover the inside in 1/8” plywood. Then following year add solar to it for fans or phone chargers. Or go complete idiot and slap a window unit in there like tank blinds. Haha
The Jute pad I mentioned does not rot. We built a stand 20+ years ago between 3 big oak trees. Just your typical midwest 2x6...2x4 and cut branch type stand. Used that padding as the side walls. still there today. Rebuilt the floor 2x put new rails on it and reattached the pad. Fully exposed all year round.

I'll be putting it in my wife's blind here in a few days on the lower walls so when the kids pump up against it...it isn't as loud. Also, should help keep it warmer even though she has a 20lb propane tank outside.

Another route I am thinking about going if I build another is find insulated garage doors. and use them as the walls. Inside and outside are finished metal (obviously insulated). Stand them up on end to get the height and each section is about 2ft. so your width and length depends on how many sections you have. Went wolf hunting in Alberta and the outfitter did this. pretty slick and cost effective if you can put feelers out for people taking out old doors.
 
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TxAggie15

FNG
Joined
May 29, 2023
Messages
27
The Jute pad I mentioned does not rot. We built a stand 20+ years ago between 3 big oak trees. Just your typical midwest 2x6...2x4 and cut branch type stand. Used that padding as the side walls. still there today. Rebuilt the floor 2x put new rails on it and reattached the pad. Fully exposed all year round.

I'll be putting it in my wife's blind here in a few days on the lower walls so when the kids pump up against it...it isn't as loud. Also, should help keep it warmer even though she has a 20lb propane tank outside.

Another route I am thinking about going if I build another is find insulated garage doors. and use them as the walls. Inside and outside are finished metal (obviously insulated). Stand them up on end to get the height and each section is about 2ft. so your width and length depends on how many sections you have. Went wolf hunting in Alberta and the outfitter did this. pretty slick and cost effective if you can put feelers out for people taking out old doors.
I wish that was an option. Texas doesn’t have many insulated garages so it’s just hot as shit
 

Pn8hall

WKR
Joined
Jan 22, 2017
Messages
692
Location
St. Louis, MO
I made this haybale blind back in 2015. It has a 5x8 floor and then i took cattle panels and bent them around the frame and attached to base. Made plywood ends and put 2x4s across to frame out windows. Covered it in Tyvek then wrapped the straw blanket around it. Straw blanket lasted about 4 years and now its tyvek that got painted with some black rubber floor runners over the top to keep it dry. I built it on 4x4 skids so I can drag it around with my 4 wheeler.
 

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Novashooter

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Aug 14, 2023
Messages
286
I've built quite a few box stands like that, some much less elaborate too. Over the years I've learned some things, both about the stands, and myself. About the size, we've built a variety from 4x4 up to 8x8. 4x4 is ok for maximizing plywood, but that's about it. You can't really put a seat in the middle, they are ok with a bench on one end, then they are just big enough for rifle hunting. They are too tight for bows. One of my favorite stands is built from an old metal staircase which ends up being about 50"x60" inside. It's just big enough for one guy. You could bow hunt from this, but it's tight unless you have really short walls. I have a swivel seat in it, but moved it more to one end. I think 6x6 is the sweet spot. Lots of room for one guy, still big enough for two. Hardly any wasted material. You can have a swivel seat in the center with tons of leg room, yet still see everything. Never tried a 7x7, but we used to have an 8x8 ice fish house on a stand. It worked, but you couldn't really see all the sides at once. I didn't build that one, and I suspect the two that did were more interested in just sitting out there than hunting. This obviously depends on your height, but I feel 6x4 is not ideal. 4' is enough leg room if you are against the wall. I really think 6x6 is a sweet spot, but a 8x5 would be great for 3 adults and plenty of leg room.

Steel sides and roof are obviously going to hold up forever. I'm not a fan of the noise. I'm sure animals get used to it, but I don't like how loud they are in the rain. I like plywood, 1/2" green treat can hold up for 30 years. Even plain plywood isn't that bad after 20 years. No paint needed. They turn gray over about 5 years, then maintain that for a long, long time. My brothers stand we built last year is the only one we ever insulated. It keeps them super warm if you use a heater. I don't think it does anything for noise. It's insulated with pink foam.

One of the biggest things I've learned about myself is that every time I build a stand, I want to move it. Not always a long distance, but any stand I build now has skids so it can be pulled. If you have access to a big tractor, build it with some kind of fork holes so it can be picked up .
 

ganngus

WKR
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
334
Location
Texas
I have had a lot of success with cattle panel blinds similar to this. I use old trampoline matts for the roof.
 

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