customized Kimber rifles

[Mangata]

It's not just your action, it's all of them. Rough, choppy, chattery, binding... all the above. I will say, I took about 30 min a few months ago to polish my bolt and the lug races; it helped immensely and I wish I did it 10 years ago. It's not Tikka-smooth, but it was a noticeable improvement.

Really appreciate the input!!
What did you use to polish with?

 

[Antares]

I don't remember exactly. I'm guessing I used sandpaper in finer and finer grits, probably 600>1000>1500>2000 and then finish with jeweler's rouge and a felt wheel on a Dremel. Just take it easy, you want to smooth it out while removing as little materiel as possible. You don't want to remove so much materiel that you affect the tolerances of how the parts fit together.

Edit to add: I am not a gunsmith. I am a hobbyist with enough knowledge to get myself into trouble. Proceed at your own risk.

 

[ianpadron]

Depends what you're used to I guess. I wouldnt describe any of my Kimbers as rough, choppy, etc. They feel like a CRF action, that's the best description.

Definitely isn't a Tikka or Sako, but there shouldn't be any difficulty chambering a round with reliability.

To me, that is of concern and would warrant a call to CS. Beforehand, make sure your extractor is riding properly on your bolt raceway. If it's off even a tiny bit it'll catch on the front of the ejection port and make it seem like something is up.

Every 84L in my safe feeds like butter

The bolt travel through the receiver is rough and choppy and will bind at times even without ammunition. It is without question the least smooth bolt travel of any rifle that I own. Add to above 280AI feed issues makes for a difficult platform to have confidence in for rapid cycling in follow up shots.

Question being, is this unique to Kimber, Mountain Ascent, or my action in particular???

 

[Lonewolf72]

18" is the sweet spot imho

View attachment 1055015

Thanks for the heads-up. Also been thinking of chopping/suppressing my 7mm-08 Montana. Was thinking I had to cut to 16" to feel balanced. But if I can get away with 18" and retain some velocity, that would be optimal. What projectile did you settle on? I will be chasing elk/mule deer.

 

[Mangata]

Depends what you're used to I guess. I wouldnt describe any of my Kimbers as rough, choppy, etc. They feel like a CRF action, that's the best description.

Definitely isn't a Tikka or Sako, but there shouldn't be any difficulty chambering a round with reliability.

To me, that is of concern and would warrant a call to CS. Beforehand, make sure your extractor is riding properly on your bolt raceway. If it's off even a tiny bit it'll catch on the front of the ejection port and make it seem like something is up.

Every 84L in my safe feeds like butter

Mine cycles exactly the same as the the Gunwerks Clymr in the video that is in General Discussion thread today “Gunwerks Clymr Cycles Terribly” for visual representation …

 

[MTBackroads]

Asking for a friend…

Mountain Ascent 280AI that chambers a round painfully rough. I mean, I can make it work but sometimes it seems like jamming a cat into a burlap bag would be easier.

Is there a remedy for the rough feeding issue or is this as good as it gets ???

Blind mag? Pull it out of the stock and reassemble without the follower and spring.

Check for binding with the mag box, really common and easy to fix.

 

[EuroOptic]

you guys see these? 5.5 lbs... $749.99
Kimber .308 Win 22" EuroOptic Exclusive Rifle

 

[ianpadron]

you guys see these? 5.5 lbs... $749.99
Kimber .308 Win 22" EuroOptic Exclusive Rifle
View attachment 1055197

Like throwing crack into a hobo camp, smart move

 

[ianpadron]

Thanks for the heads-up. Also been thinking of chopping/suppressing my 7mm-08 Montana. Was thinking I had to cut to 16" to feel balanced. But if I can get away with 18" and retain some velocity, that would be optimal. What projectile did you settle on? I will be chasing elk/mule deer.

The rifle i posted is a 243 so different bullets.

I do have a 7mm08 MT as well and the 150 ELDX shoots lights out in it. 22" factory threaded, only reason that kne didn't get chopped as well.

 

[Lonewolf72]

The rifle i posted is a 243 so different bullets.

I do have a 7mm08 MT as well and the 150 ELDX shoots lights out in it. 22" factory threaded, only reason that kne didn't get chopped as well.

150 ELD-X is probably where I'll start. If I don't have enough velocity, then will try 140 of some sort, or drop down to 120 NBT.

 

[Kimber7man]

Just got my Montana 7mm08 back from warranty service. They fixed the light primer strike issue.

Thinking I might chop/thread it. Is there any consensus what length would be best for the 708?

If it matters, my other rifle is a 7saum, 18” and suppressed with a Nomad Ti XC.

So covering some bases for short range vs long range, and some how I’m hooked on 7mm for now.

18”

 

[Kimber7man]

150 ELD-X is probably where I'll start. If I don't have enough velocity, then will try 140 of some sort, or drop down to 120 NBT.

My 18” has the 120 NBT going almost 3,000 over Big Game with less than 100 rounds down the pipe…. Definitely a killer load.

 

[Lonewolf72]

My 18” has the 120 NBT going almost 3,000 over Big Game with less than 100 rounds down the pipe…. Definitely a killer load.

Thoughts on 120 NBT for elk? I take it is adequate for the task like a 95 NBT in a 243.

 

[Kimber7man]

Thoughts on 120 NBT for elk? I take it is adequate for the task like a 95 NBT in a 243.

I’ve never used one on elk, but have multiple friends who have so I’d do it. Heck good old Buzz H has helped tons of people kill an elk with a 120 NBT.
If I don’t draw a bull tag and just go for cow elk this fall, that’s definitely in the running for what I’ll be taking.