Considering getting a Tikka T3X…

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I don’t need it, but I am thinking about getting a Tikka T3X as a new deer rifle. I’ll be hunting on my farm in SW Virginia. While longer shots are possible, most shots will be under 200 yards. I’m an experienced hunter and this won’t be my first rifle. I already have several bolt action hunting rifles (including .243, .257 Roberts, .25-06, 6.5 Grendel, .270, .30-06, and 8x57). If I like the Tikka enough, I might thin the herd a bit, but I’ll probably just get another gun safe.

I want the wooden stock, so I am currently only looking at the Hunter or Forester. I haven’t handled either of these models yet, because the LGS doesn’t have them in stock. I will almost certainly try to get hands on one or both models before I make a decision. Anything hidden I might need to know?

I understand that the action is the same length, but the bolt stop and magazine follower are different lengths. Is there anything else I need to know about the Tikka T3X that isn’t obvious?

I am trying to decide between 6.5x55, 7mm-08, 6.5 CM, and .308. Those are listed in order of current preference. I reload. I don’t care about the availability of factory ammo.

Whichever one I get, I intend to get it cut down to 20” and threaded for a suppressor. I already have a Scythe Ti for it (yes, I read the threads about the failures with the Scythe Ti).

The alternatives I am considering to the T3X are a CZ 550 FS, BRNO 22, and Sako L579 Forester in something like 6.5x55, 7x57, or .308. As those are not new rifles, they would require a bit more shopping.


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Tahoe1305

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Huge fan of the tikka 6.5Cs. They have longer than saami throats so if you handload you can load to lands and get some extra oomph (100fps).

That said if you don’t handload it takes away about as much as it gives.

with a 20” barrel you can likely achieve 2800fps with 143s and handloads (probably 2500fps with factory though :(. )

Edit. I’ll add. That a hopped up 6.5C tikka will do everything those other rifles will with a good placed bullet. Not that I’m recommending replacing all of them….but you could.
 
OP
Q
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As I said in the OP, I reload. So, within safe limits, I can get the most I want out of any chambering.

What I am really trying to determine is what advantage(s) I gain from 6.5 CM in the T3X versus another chambering in the T3X. I’m not interested in theoretical 6.5 CM vs another chambering in “any rifle.”

All these chamberings have 1:8 twist barrels in the T3X. That’s a constant. My assumption is that all will shoot “current” bullets equally well. Is that a valid assumption?

This is a hunting rifle. Max COAL is limited by the magazine and what will chamber. Single feeding is not an option.

The action length is the same no matter the chambering. The difference is in the magazine block and bolt stop.

Presumably, if I went with the 6.5x55, I would have the long action bolt stop and no magazine block. The case length for the 6.5x55 is 2.165” (55mm). The 6.5x55 lists 3.150” (80mm) as max length, but my Google Fu tells me that I can get 3.34” out of the T3X magazine. So, my max COAL would be limited my the magazine. And I could load whatever “current” bullets I want in it and have them perform just as well as in any other 1:8 twist barrel (up to the 3.34 COAL).

Likewise, if I went with the 6.5 CM, 7mm-08, or .308, I would have the medium action bolt stop and a magazine block. The case length for the 6.5 CM is 1.92” (48.8mm) The 6.5 CM’s max length is listed as 2.825” (71.8 mm). The 6.5 CM would have a small advantage in length vs the 7mm-08 (2.035” (51.7mm)) or .308 (2.015” (51.2mm)). So, presumably, with the same magazine block, the 6.5 CM can seat a longer bullet out a bit further than the other two in an unmodified T3X.

But, can the T3X be easily modified to take full advantage of the longer action by changing the bolt stop and magazine? What, if any, other modifications would be required to ensure reliable feeding? If that works, that might allow me to get the absolute most practical COAL out of one of the shorter cartridges, right?


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AZ_Hunter

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Huge fan of the tikka 6.5Cs. They have longer than saami throats so if you handload you can load to lands and get some extra oomph (100fps).

That said if you don’t handload it takes away about as much as it gives.

with a 20” barrel you can likely achieve 2800fps with 143s and handloads (probably 2500fps with factory though :(. )

Edit. I’ll add. That a hopped up 6.5C tikka will do everything those other rifles will with a good placed bullet. Not that I’m recommending replacing all of them….but you could.

I never measured to the lans on my tikka 6.5cm, so what you say makes sense, since I load to max mag length of the m+ and everything is smooth. I used Staball 6.5 and get 2750 out of a suppressed 16” barrel with the 130tmk.
 

Tahoe1305

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I never measured to the lans on my tikka 6.5cm, so what you say makes sense, since I load to max mag length of the m+ and everything is smooth. I used Staball 6.5 and get 2750 out of a suppressed 16” barrel with the 130tmk.
Yeah lands are within .1” of that mag length so you’re likely solid.

I think I load to 2.930 if I recall.

I get 3050 with 129s in factory 24”. So about 40fps per inch seems reasonable.
 
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Speaks

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I just got a T3X in 6.5cm. I had toyed with the 308 because I have a bunch of ammo on hand (target practice stuff not high quality stuff) but they have a rather slow barrel for that round, does not matter with lighter loadings but can with heavy.

6.5 seemed like the best option for me though I could certainly see an argument for any of them given that you are rolling your own.
 

Marbles

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The 6.5 CM comes with what Tikka calls an M+ magazine, it is longer than the M magazines and works with the short throw bolt stop

Replacing a bolt stop is cheap if you ever want a longer bolt throw.

The Swede and 7-08 are both more interesting to me, but I would go with the 6.5 for the same reason I have stainless Tikkas in carbon stocks rather than Sako Bavarians.

If you are going to stick with factory stock,bid you can find a Sako Forester in 6.5x55 that has a class factor a Tikka doesn't. I've never handled a Forester though, so cannot say if it is better or worse.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Speaking of hot hand loads, Sako/Tikka is the only rifle manufacturing facility I’ve been to that tests over pressure and fires every single gun before it leaves the facility.

They are function tested and shot in a safe chamber at 30 percent over pressure before they are then hand shot by a gun smith for 3 rounds at 1 MOA for Tikka and 5 rounds at 1 MOA for Sako.

If a gun fails either of these they go back to the original smith who assembled the barreled action together for inspection and/or termination.
 
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I don’t need it, but I am thinking about getting a Tikka T3X as a new deer rifle. I’ll be hunting on my farm in SW Virginia. While longer shots are possible, most shots will be under 200 yards. I’m an experienced hunter and this won’t be my first rifle. I already have several bolt action hunting rifles (including .243, .257 Roberts, .25-06, 6.5 Grendel, .270, .30-06, and 8x57). If I like the Tikka enough, I might thin the herd a bit, but I’ll probably just get another gun safe.

I want the wooden stock, so I am currently only looking at the Hunter or Forester. I haven’t handled either of these models yet, because the LGS doesn’t have them in stock. I will almost certainly try to get hands on one or both models before I make a decision. Anything hidden I might need to know?

I understand that the action is the same length, but the bolt stop and magazine follower are different lengths. Is there anything else I need to know about the Tikka T3X that isn’t obvious?

I am trying to decide between 6.5x55, 7mm-08, 6.5 CM, and .308. Those are listed in order of current preference. I reload. I don’t care about the availability of factory ammo.

Whichever one I get, I intend to get it cut down to 20” and threaded for a suppressor. I already have a Scythe Ti for it (yes, I read the threads about the failures with the Scythe Ti).

The alternatives I am considering to the T3X are a CZ 550 FS, BRNO 22, and Sako L579 Forester in something like 6.5x55, 7x57, or .308. As those are not new rifles, they would require a bit more shopping.


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Sako will always be better than tikka…
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Sako will always be better than tikka…
They are made in the same facility that focuses heavily on QC.

A Sako and Tikka barrel are identical other than in some cartridges the Tikka line has adopted some faster twist variants. They are both cold hammer forged and then properly stress relieved. The triggers are identical. There are slight differences in the actions and bolts as you know.

I’d happily and confidently shoot either one. What the top of the line Sako offers over a Tikka are…

Actions sized for the chambering
Bolt handle and bolt are one milled piece
Metal flush mount, double stack mags
Metal trigger guard
Better/more stock options
Set trigger options
 

mxgsfmdpx

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I guess I need to consider a new Sako too.


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I have two of the new 90s, they are pre-production units but were “first article samples” meaning they are final production intent units.

They have been nothing short of phenomenal. I own/owned around 7 or 8 Sako 85s of which two did have some ejection issues that many were plagued with, when combined with scopes with larger windage turrets.

If you can find a lightly used 75 or a new 90 those would be a great choice. Depending on the carriage choice and your planned bullet, you may need to go for Tikka to get the proper twist rate on heavy for caliber higher BC bullets.

Starting with a Tikka and then putting it into a Rokstok is also a great choice.
 
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They are made in the same facility that focuses heavily on QC.

A Sako and Tikka barrel are identical other than in some cartridges the Tikka line has adopted some faster twist variants. They are both cold hammer forged and then properly stress relieved. The triggers are identical. There are slight differences in the actions and bolts as you know.

I’d happily and confidently shoot either one. What the top of the line Sako offers over a Tikka are…

Actions sized for the chambering
Bolt handle and bolt are one milled piece
Metal flush mount, double stack mags
Metal trigger guard
Better/more stock options
Set trigger options
Sorry, not true, at least according to Sako and Tikka when you call and talk to their people. I get why you would want to believe that though…
 

rclouse79

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I am thinking about getting a new barrel for my tikka 270. I looked at the 6.5 x 55 and 25-06. It seems like most things I read about those two calibers said a longer barrel is preferred to take advantage of the slower burning powder.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Sorry, not true, at least according to Sako and Tikka when you call and talk to their people. I get why you would want to believe that though…
Which part is not true? What “people” from Sako and Tikka have told you otherwise?

I only believe what I’ve seen when I visited their facility twice, but maybe some changes have been made there? I can make a call after the holidays and ask as I’m friends with one of the lead QC guys and one of the PMs there. My apologies if I’m mistaken as my info is about 3 years old now (last time I was there).
 
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Which part is not true? What “people” from Sako and Tikka have told you otherwise?

I only believe what I’ve seen when I visited their facility twice, but maybe some changes have been made there? I can make a call after the holidays and ask as I’m friends with one of the lead QC guys and one of the PMs there. My apologies if I’m mistaken as my info is about 3 years old now (last time I was there).
The part where they use the exact same barrels - that is 100% not true.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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The part where they use the exact same barrels - that is 100% not true.
Did they add another cold hammer forge setup and stress relief station, and new reamer starion just for the Tikka barrels?

They were forged, relieved, reamed, and chambered in literally the exact same stations as the Sakos last I was there.
 
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Did they add another cold hammer forge setup and stress relief station, and new reamer starion just for the Tikka barrels?

They were forged, relieved, reamed, and chambered in literally the exact same stations as the Sakos last I was there.
No idea - I just know what I was told. None of that means they are using the same quality steel barrels for both Tikka and Sako. It just means their process was similar.
 
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