Compound bow setup/ tuning

[Adkhunter3]

Just getting back into bows after a 5 year hiatus. Need a little refresher. Here’s how I remember it, open to suggestions or tweaking.

1. New strings/ cables fire 100 arrows to settle strings
2. Set draw weight, max out limb bold back off 1/4 turn
3. Set draw length
4. Check cam timing at full draw
5. Setup arrow rest. Adjust center shot, start at 3/4” out and through center of Berger hole.
6. Set nocking point (plumb string, level arrow).
7.tie in D-loop
8. Tie in peep (halfway distance of typical range)
9. Set 1,2,3 axis on sight
10. Paper tune with fletched arrow at 7 feet. Shim cams according to tear
11. Walk back tune. Adjust arrow rest
12. Bareshaft tune to make final rest adjustments
13. Record specs/ measurements

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Going thru this as we speak

 

[Adkhunter3]

Going thru this as we speak

Your process the same?

 

[ArcherAnthony]

I usually just paper tune mine in the beginning. Then shoot it a lot and come back and shoot paper again to make sure everything is still good. But honestly unless you notice your arrows spiraling in the air or see that your timing is off leave it alone if it is shooting well. Sometimes we over tweak things. I would also add a nose button. Really helps being consistent with your anchor position.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Pretty much,I tend to overthink it and get frustrated but just taking my time.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

That looks Iike a pretty good setup/tuning protocol. Here are a few minor notes/suggestions:

2. Check draw weight with limb bolts fully tightened. Adjust cable twists to get draw weight to spec then set draw weight where you want it using the limb bolts.

5. 13/16" is the most common recommended centershot (but 3/4" is close enough)

10. Lateral cam adjustment method varies by bow. Current Hoyt and Mathews models use cam shims. Bowtech uses a worm screw on the cam axle ("Deadlock"). Elite torques the limbs at the pocket ("SET"). PSE uses a combination of shims and adjustable yokes. A lot of older bows used yokes to adjust cam lean. You may also need to adjust rest elevation and/or nocking point location to resolve vertical tears while paper tuning.

Add a rest timing step (if you're shooting a dropaway). Timing process varies a bit by rest make/model.

Add broadhead tuning as your final step to make sure your arrows are flying well in their actual hunting configuration.

 

[bigunit]

Don't forget to double check spine otherwise most other steps are a waste of time

 

[Beendare]

( past posts on my process, C&P)

I always start by checking timing marks, Cam rollover and exact axle to axle measurements as first steps.

Note- if you skip steps, it can result in frustration

Ive been shooting a recurve for many years but this was my tuning process with a compound;

1. Set the bow to factory specs; cam timing, axle to axle, rest
Cams- most have timing marks now. If not, check on a draw board at full draw then scribe the cam when they roll over perfectly timed- (no skipping this step)
Confirm Axle to axle measurement- factory distance is a perfect cable and string setup
Rest- its usually 13/16” in the new compounds but its designed to shoot at factory distance. Dropaway rests need to be timed to come up late

2. arrow; Make sure your arrows arent underspined. A over spine arrow tunes well in a modern compound and gives you a more durable arrow. I’ve had the 8gpi and under shafts not hold up well. Look at 9 or 10 gpi min for a hunt arrow shaft.
Spin check arrows for perfect straightness and nok tightness. A tiny wobble and your BHs won’t group.

3. Set string loop with a tiny spacer ( wraps of floss or thread on the inside of the loop, one side is fine) so the loop isnt tight on the nok. The strategy here is not to have the loop itself applying up/down pressure on the arrow nok. Nok pinch is bad.

At this point you have multiple options for arrow tune; shooting a bareshaft with FPs, shoot paper, or just shoot BHs and FPs. Follow the charts in the OP.

Worth noting;
Paper tune with FPs is only 1/2 tuned

If your BHs dont hit with FPs, the BH arrow is telling you your arrows are coming out of the bow cockeyed. When the BH arrow hits with FPs, thats when your arrows are truly coming out of the bow perfectly straight.

When BHs aren’t perfect:
1. If the above steps are done and BHs still don’t hit with FPs its worth experimenting with your form and grip before you start moving stuff. Sometimes its just a minor grip change. Check form alignment.

2. check for fletch contact with powder.

3. Bow Adjustments; It usually takes tiny movements to get it right. That can either be accomplished by adjusting yokes, shimming cams, twisting the Yokes or tiny 1/32” rest moves. If you move your rest more than about 3/16” from factory recommended setting, something else is wrong…it doesnt take that much.

Rest adjustments are tricky. when I BH tune; shoot BHs and FPs for groups- I typically chase the FP group ( move rest toward the FP group) in 1/32” incriments. This usually works…but if not….(and you have checked all of the other factors above) I have had it where a paper tuned for FP was past the perfect setting- over shoot the adjustment- and to keep chasing FPs with my rest made it worse, go back the opposite direction a tiny bit.

Key Point is; its never much past factory recommended setting for your rest.


I probably forgot something…but thats essentially my process. If you skip a step….or have a form flaw especially alignment…or are shooting arrows that don’t spin perfect….you will not get that bow to tune.

I hope that helps….Best wishes to my bowhunting brothers….

It sounds like a lot ^ but its one of those things thats worth getting your arms around, understanding the factors in perfect arrow flight. Your bow will be quieter, faster, smoother…and more forgiving of a form error in the woods

 

[NYSKIER]

I agree with Beendare.

Spec is #1, for the rest you can usually look up the recommended center shot.

fire a bunch of arrows after you set up dloop to make sure it’s settled in and not effecting arrow flight

When it comes to broad head/arrow tuning I just shoot bareshafts out to twenty and when then make adjustments. Once I’m good here I switch to a broad head and if it’s in line I’m good to go

 

[pHill30]

I often end up checking and tweaking my cam timing a couple times throughout the process. After rest cord is through the cable, after peep sight has been installed, after paper tuning (if I had to move my nocking point at all).