Changing main hunting rifle, what to do?

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texag10

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You aren't seeing game good enough to shoot 30 minutes after sunset in the woods or on cloudy evenings. You also aren't seeing the reticle in low light on low magnification.
Or if you do, your eyesight must be in the top 0.5% of the population.
The scope is certainly worthless an hour after sunset, which is the legal time in my state.
How about starting your own thread if you feel so passionate about this topic? I'm not changing the scope.
 

AZ_Hunter

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While AR’s can be very precise, they are more critical of errors (especially large frame AR’s). They have a much longer lock time, almost all are effected by forend flex and POI shifts, and to get one setup for excellent shootability- they are heavier.

I shoot a lot of rounds from the AR family per year and a properly setup AR is one of the most useful tools made; but their use isn’t optimized for general hunting. Lots of targets, lots of shooting- yes. One or two targets- no.
I have been building and shooting AR’s in all types of contexts, including hunting since 2001. 95% of my hunting has been with AR’s (all AR15 sized) most in wildcat or non-556 calibers. I love the platform for hunting. It is very easy to build a light weight, highly accurate system.

I have taken a field a large frame and I agree with you on that platform not being well suited for hunting due to bulk and weight mostly.

Before I ever even heard of Rokslide and using 223 on elk, I was doing my thing using a 12.5” 6.8 on them, which all the Fudds said is not possible. I put three rounds in this guy’s lungs in the time a person would be able to shoot once with an 06.

I set up my hunting AR’s with low mass carriers, adjustable gas and of course suppressed. This results in a soft recoil impulse, keeping me in the scope and allowing rapid, accurate, follow up shots. In thick timber like the pic, I’ll have the scope on 1x by default.

The bull below was about 30ish yards and got 3 rounds in likely just over 1 second. Went to his front knees, then just rolled on his side, kicked a little then expired.

But I have an incalculable amount of rounds through the system. So it’s complete muscle memory to me.
 

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atmat

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What does the Rokslide hive mind say?

I am abut people learning to shoot correctly, not buying new gear. However, a 6cm, with that scope (you may need higher rings), a suppressor, and a RokStok is about as good as it gets for Colorado- and is as near a one and done rifle as exists.
@texag10 — I did what Form suggested above, and it’s what I’d recommend to you, as well. I shoot a 16” Tikka 6creed suppressed with UM rings and the RS1.2 and it’s awesome. My Rokstok should be showing up any day now, and that makes me even more excited.
 
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I don’t have experience with all of the various options you posted especially with reloading… but I’ve been nothing but happy with my 6CM Tikka. Easy to shoot. Accurate. And maneuverable with how I have it set up: 20” barrel, suppressed, RokStok, Maven (previously SWFA 5-20).

I’d do another one in a heartbeat
 

Macintosh

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Hmmm. The one I just looked at was not above bore. I’m not sure if it was an earlier or later version maybe?

What is that inlet for?
Mine is inlet for a tikka. It is an older stock that I purchased used, I was told it was from right before the company name changed to “allterra”. Certainly possible they have changed since, although that does seem odd to me on a molded stock. I have big hands (grin) so the grip works for me, and having a parallel bottom side would help too, can definitely see why you and others dont like the trigger reach, but Ive found it to handle recoil exceptionally well compared to most other stocks. I really like mine. I guess if theyve changed the stock geometry would be good to know so I can keep my mouth shut if the newer version is different??
Regardless, if the grip doesnt work for the OP then maybe a swap is in order, my statement was only that IF the stock works then upgrading to a different stock wont make the LARGEST difference specifically in spotting shots when the other alternative is rebarreling to a 6cm or similar.


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texag10

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Are you killing animals with your current rifle chambered in said cartridge?
I've only shot an antelope with this barrel (worked very well), killed 4 or 5 mule deer and a couple antelope with the factory 6.5 Creedmoor barrel and Hornady match 147 factory ammo. I've never had an issue with how either combo killed. I should've just stayed with the factory barrel and reloaded for that.

@Macintosh I have the stock from around the same time, prior to the name change. It works, and was the best option at the time, but the grip doesn't really let me have my trigger finger positioned optimally without choking up on the grip so far that my thumb ends up between the back of the bolt and the scope's ocular housing.
 
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MT_Wyatt

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Mine is inlet for a tikka. It is an older stock that I purchased used, I was told it was from right before the company name changed to “allterra”. Certainly possible they have changed since, although that does seem odd to me on a molded stock. I have big hands (grin) so the grip works for me, and having a parallel bottom side would help too, can definitely see why you and others dont like the trigger reach, but Ive found it to handle recoil exceptionally well compared to most other stocks. I really like mine. I guess if theyve changed the stock geometry would be good to know so I can keep my mouth shut if the newer version is different??
Regardless, if the grip doesnt work for the OP then maybe a swap is in order, my statement was only that IF the stock works then upgrading to a different stock wont make the LARGEST difference specifically in spotting shots when the other alternative is rebarreling to a 6cm or similar.


View attachment 732429
Axial Precision was their original name before rebranding to Alterra - they stopped doing component stocks for a good while, but are selling them again. They recently released a different version of their stock that is very similar to what the Rokstock is doing, geometry wise.
 

Formidilosus

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Mine is inlet for a tikka. It is an older stock that I purchased used, I was told it was from right before the company name changed to “allterra”. Certainly possible they have changed since, although that does seem odd to me on a molded stock. I have big hands (grin) so the grip works for me, and having a parallel bottom side would help too, can definitely see why you and others dont like the trigger reach, but Ive found it to handle recoil exceptionally well compared to most other stocks. I really like mine. I guess if theyve changed the stock geometry would be good to know so I can keep my mouth shut if the newer version is different??
Regardless, if the grip doesnt work for the OP then maybe a swap is in order, my statement was only that IF the stock works then upgrading to a different stock wont make the LARGEST difference specifically in spotting shots when the other alternative is rebarreling to a 6cm or similar.


This one was different then- though I’m not sure why.

You just have monstrous hands and finger length for that grip to work. I was the first person to call Axial and talk to them about making a Tikka inlet, but after shooting the first one- I was no longer interested.
 
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Axial Precision was their original name before rebranding to Alterra - they stopped doing component stocks for a good while, but are selling them again. They recently released a different version of their stock that is very similar to what the Rokstock is doing, geometry wise.

That new x stock looks pretty nice. I think I like the comb better than the rokstock in theory although it's nothing a little redneck engineering couldn't easily do to the rokstok. The grip seems to have a longer reach to trigger - I love the grip on the rokstok so would be tough to overcome if the alterra X has a longish reach.
 

Marbles

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A 6 Creedmoor would be my answer. If you must have the expensive dies to reload, that changes things slightly on the cost analysis. RCBS 6 Creedmoor dies are only $50.

To really save money this is a great option https://jaoutdoors.com/product/tikka-factory-barrels/
I'm using a 17 inch 1:8 twist Tikka 243 barrel at the moment. 20 inches is a touch longer than I would want with a can, but for that price I would live with it. A $30 dollar adapter from Precision Armament will get you to a standard thread size, a bottle of Rocksett is another $15.

VV lists N565 loads for 109 and 108 Bergers in 243.

Edited after I read that you have the tools to screw on a pre-fit. $200ish all in for a new threaded barrel is a steal and CO is dry enough I would not think twice about the chromoly.
 
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A 6 Creedmoor would be my answer. If you must have the expensive dies to reload, that changes things slightly on the cost analysis. RCBS 6 Creedmoor dies are only $50.

To really save money this is a great option https://jaoutdoors.com/product/tikka-factory-barrels/
I'm using a 17 inch 1:8 twist Tikka 243 barrel at the moment. 20 inches is a touch longer than I would want with a can, but for that price I would live with it. A $30 dollar adapter from Precision Armament will get you to a standard thread size, a bottle of Rocksett is another $15.

VV lists N565 loads for 109 and 108 Bergers in 243.

Edited after I read that you have the tools to screw on a pre-fit. $200ish all in for a new threaded barrel is a steal and CO is dry enough I would not think twice about the chromoly.

20" 8 twist 243 with muzzle threads for $180 is definitely the cost effective way to go about it!
 

KenLee

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You can keep posting the same nonsense about SWFA, but hundreds of people do everyday what you say can’t be done.
I (and multiple other RS’ers) just spent two weeks with more than two dozen people using 6x, 10x, 3-9x, and 3-15x SWFA’s shooting up to total darkness- right next to people shooting S&B’s, Trijicons, NF’s, Vortex Razors, Zeiss, Maven, Leupold, and others. Not one person could see and shoot a target from less than 100y to over 800y that everyone with SWFA’s couldn’t also see and shoot as well.
Shooting targets must be vastly different from shooting brown or black haired creatures at dark. I have no clue on this, as I've never had the need or desire to shoot at targets in the dark.
I will say that I'm glad you folks love your SWFA scopes and the 3-9 does seem better than the 6x and 10x. I personally wish the supply of SWFA scopes would increase 20 fold. Maybe the purchases of those scopes would drive down demand and prices of alpha scopes.
 

Macintosh

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@Macintosh

Wanted to make sure that I wasn’t crazy…

View attachment 732529



I’m guessing the original Hunter Tikka stock were a different geometry as here is the new one-

View attachment 732530
Huh, thats really interesting. That line intersects with the mid-point of the comb on mine—in the pic I posted the stock was pressed against the fence on my table saw, and you can see where the end of the fence intersects the comb. Surprised they would have changed it like that, but good to know.
 

Formidilosus

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Shooting targets must be vastly different from shooting brown or black haired creatures at dark. I have no clue on this, as I've never had the need or desire to shoot at targets in the dark.
I will say that I'm glad you folks love your SWFA scopes and the 3-9 does seem better than the 6x and 10x. I personally wish the supply of SWFA scopes would increase 20 fold. Maybe the purchases of those scopes would drive down demand and prices of alpha scopes.


Oh no doubt- the hundreds of animals that have been killed using them by myself and the people I hunt with, from Florida swamps to NY big woods, to AZ deserts and Rocky Mountain timbers; all the way to Alaskan tundra and rain forests- ignoring everyone else that had done so; definitely shows that they are unusable.

Have you actually used in the field a SWFA 6x, 10x, or 3-9x?
 

KenLee

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Oh no doubt- the hundreds of animals that have been killed using them by myself and the people I hunt with, from Florida swamps to NY big woods, to AZ deserts and Rocky Mountain timbers; all the way to Alaskan tundra and rain forests- ignoring everyone else that had done so; definitely shows that they are unusable.

Have you actually used in the field a SWFA 6x, 10x, or 3-9x?
Yep I tried a 6x and 3-9x in the field. Sold the 3-9x probably a year ago and still have a 6x and 10x. Got offered more for the 3-9x than it was worth to me.
Only use the 6x and 10x now to see how new to me rifles I'm unsure about shoot. Basically to determine whether the rifle shoots good enough to justify buying a hunting scope I like for it.
 

Formidilosus

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Yep I tried a 6x and 3-9x in the field. Sold the 3-9x probably a year ago and still have a 6x and 10x. Got offered more for the 3-9x than it was worth to me.
Only use the 6x and 10x now to see how new to me rifles I'm unsure about shoot. Basically to determine whether the rifle shoots good enough to justify buying a hunting scope I like for it.

I’m not trying to be a jerk here- are you properly adjusting the diopter to your eye?

There is no functional difference between the glass clarity and brightness of those SWFA’s and a Trijicon, Maven, NF, etc at the same power.
 
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texag10

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A 6 Creedmoor would be my answer. If you must have the expensive dies to reload, that changes things slightly on the cost analysis. RCBS 6 Creedmoor dies are only $50.

To really save money this is a great option https://jaoutdoors.com/product/tikka-factory-barrels/
I'm using a 17 inch 1:8 twist Tikka 243 barrel at the moment. 20 inches is a touch longer than I would want with a can, but for that price I would live with it. A $30 dollar adapter from Precision Armament will get you to a standard thread size, a bottle of Rocksett is another $15.

VV lists N565 loads for 109 and 108 Bergers in 243.

Edited after I read that you have the tools to screw on a pre-fit. $200ish all in for a new threaded barrel is a steal and CO is dry enough I would not think twice about the chromoly.
Appreciate it! Looks like VV has a load for N565 with 6 CM and 105 Bergers as well, so I could probably do ok with my existing powder stash!
 
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