Case measurement tools

[CSHunter802]

I am new to reloading, having lots of fun trying to figure this out. I have listened to the hornady podcasts and tried to read up on Forms load development process, (along with my manuals and countless youtube vids) these resources seem to be popular around here. I have a tikka t3x in 7rm that I'm trying to reload for. I have all the tools required to load the ammunition: press, dies, trim/prep station, scales, hand priming tool, trickler, etc. As well as components I'd like to use, Peterson Brass, 160gr accubonds, and a few different powders to try.
My question is about the measurement tools. From what I understand I won't be coming close to the lands with my tikka, and that shouldn't matter too much for accuracy. But in order to ensure consistency/accuracy what would you folks recommend for measuring tools? I have calipers but it seems like COAL may not be the best indicator. If I load to max mag length to start and find a seating depth that works well would you recommend using a CBTO measuring tool like the hornady bullet comparator to match that length with every round. And for sizing the hornady headspace gauge? Does anybody use go/no go gauges?
I just want to be able to load ammo consistently, I am not trying to obsess over tiny seating depth changes, or single feeding to come closer to the lands. Simple is appealing to me. Am I on the right track?

 

[Harvey_NW]

Simple is appealing to me. Am I on the right track?

Yes, you are. Get the Hornady headspace gauge kit, and bullet inserts if you want to measure ogive, but they're not a must. You shouldn't be able to reach the lands in a factory Tikka mag with 160's, so I usually start loading bottom edge of bearing surface on the bullet to the neck/shoulder junction, or to functional mag length if that's deeper. Work up from there.

After firing, you can usually dial in your exact size measurement by chamber checking as you start to size, because the case actually grows in length before the die starts to set the shoulders back. Measure 5 or so pieces for reference before sizing. I usually start with the expander ball removed, and the FL die screwed in until the bottom of the die makes contact with the shellholder when the ram is at full stroke, then back the die out 1/2 turn. Run a piece through, measure, check in chamber. I do this in 1/8 turns. Once you get resistance on bolt close, that is the max headspace measurement. Continue screwing the die down until the shoulders are bumped back .002-3" from the max measurement. Replace expander ball and set the lock ring and your sizing die is set for your chamber. If you get to a point where you start bumping shoulders back and still don't get resistance when chambering a piece of brass, stop there and size all the pieces, fire again, and repeat setup. Dwelling for a second at the top of stroke also helps with sizing consistency. This sounds labor intensive but it only takes a few minutes, and will help tremendously with brass life and avoid potential case head separation. Lanolin lube also makes this process easy.

H1000 and 160's is usually an easy button in 7RM, 160 accubonds shot very well out of my Tikka.

 

[CSHunter802]

Yes, you are. Get the Hornady headspace gauge kit, and bullet inserts if you want to measure ogive, but they're not a must. You shouldn't be able to reach the lands in a factory Tikka mag with 160's, so I usually start loading bottom edge of bearing surface on the bullet to the neck/shoulder junction, or to functional mag length if that's deeper. Work up from there.

After firing, you can usually dial in your exact size measurement by chamber checking as you start to size, because the case actually grows in length before the die starts to set the shoulders back. Measure 5 or so pieces for reference before sizing. I usually start with the expander ball removed, and the FL die screwed in until the bottom of the die makes contact with the shellholder when the ram is at full stroke, then back the die out 1/2 turn. Run a piece through, measure, check in chamber. I do this in 1/8 turns. Once you get resistance on bolt close, that is the max headspace measurement. Continue screwing the die down until the shoulders are bumped back .002-3" from the max measurement. Replace expander ball and set the lock ring and your sizing die is set for your chamber. If you get to a point where you start bumping shoulders back and still don't get resistance when chambering a piece of brass, stop there and size all the pieces, fire again, and repeat setup. Dwelling for a second at the top of stroke also helps with sizing consistency. This sounds labor intensive but it only takes a few minutes, and will help tremendously with brass life and avoid potential case head separation. Lanolin lube also makes this process easy.

H1000 and 160's is usually an easy button in 7RM, 160 accubonds shot very well out of my Tikka.

Thanks, @Harvey_NW h1000 is on my short list of powders, also wanted to try h4831sc and retumbo. So backed out from the bottom it is likely that the brass won't fit well in the chamber? Size down until it does with resistance and then bump back another few thousandths? Would the same thing be accomplished by measuring fired brass with the headspace gauge, and then looking for a measurement of -0.002ish on resized brass and locking in/sizing from there? Maybe I'm misunderstanding, apologies if I sound ignorant, I don't know of anyone in my area who reloads so I'm trying to teach myself.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Thanks, @Harvey_NW h1000 is on my short list of powders, also wanted to try h4831sc and retumbo.

Those should work well too.

So backed out from the bottom it is likely that the brass won't fit well in the chamber? Size down until it does with resistance and then bump back another few thousandths?

Not sure I understand exactly what you're asking here. Run the ram up to full stroke with the correct shellholder in, and screw the FL sizing die into the top of the press. Once the bottom of the die contacts the shellholder, back it out at least 1/2 turn, and start there.

Would the same thing be accomplished by measuring fired brass with the headspace gauge, and then looking for a measurement of -0.002ish on resized brass and locking in/sizing from there?

In tighter chambers, it's usually close. However 7RM is old geometry with loose tolerances, so sometimes the brass isn't fully formed first firing, which is why I prefer to check by feel. Like I said the brass will actually start to grow in length from the body portion being sized before the die makes contact with the shoulders, so you can measure it and attempt to chamber it. If you get resistance on bolt, obviously too long and you can go from there. Essentially a homemade no go gauge.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, apologies if I sound ignorant, I don't know of anyone in my area who reloads so I'm trying to teach myself.

No worries man, I realize if you're not familiar with it the context can get confusing. Hopefully those answers clear it up a bit.

 

[rsipes3]

the way i do it is first figure out your maximum length allowable with the magazine box, if that allows you to seat bullets .010 off the lands then great, i use the hornady bullet comparator gauge to measure oal at the ogive of the bullet not the actual oal at the tip. this is more accurate and its the method i use for load development, youll just have to cross check that measurement with your mag box measurement you took earlier, and as far as case measurement goes, i just take a fired case and bump the shoulder back .002 and i measure that with the hornady case comparator gauge. a tip to finding the measurement to the lands without buying a tool is to just take a fired case, slightly pinch the mouth of the case enough to hold the bullet, take your bullet, color it with a sharpy in the area that will be inside the case mouth, stick it in the case leaving it out a ways, insert the case in the gun and close the bolt, when you close the bolt it will push the bullet back in the case and when you extract the case youll be able to see where the bullet was by the mark from the sharpy. its not a super precise method but it will get you really close. ive found alot of my guns are happy anywhere between .010 and .030 off the lands. you just have to make sure that length fits in the mag.

 

[49ereric]

I have no measurement tools for 40+ years now and I get by but it you are loading a cartridge that burns out barrels quickly then it is probably best to have them.
i measure a case with a 9mm case no primer on top of the fired brass and record the caliper measurement. If the fired case still chambers easily then no shoulder bump is required. If resistance is felt them a shoulder bump is needed. Recording the length measurement Is prudent for future reference but not needed necessaril.
i seat bullets to the spec the manufacturer list in a manual 3 shells at a time and then check accuracy. Seat longer 10-20 or 30 thousands (how far is debatable) for the nest 3 shells etc. you will either see the groups tighten up or get worse and fine tuning can be done. My Savage 110E 06 has a tight chamber and manufacturer listed length was to long.
example is my 1944 Mauser K98 grouped horrible with 175 gr sierras so knowing the k98 was chambered with a 196 grain bullet in mind I seated 30 thousands longer for each 3 shot group and it took several groups to find where the sweet spot was. The bullet is only in the case 17 thousands but it shoot very well.
This an extreme example.

 

[Harvey_NW]

then check accuracy. Seat longer 10-20 or 30 thousands (how far is debatable) for the nest 3 shells etc. you will either see the groups tighten up or get worse and fine tuning can be done.

Up your samples and those groups will likely even out, then you can save a bunch of components by shooting one 10 shot group to verify, instead of ten 3 shot groups that give you false confidence in a load by randomly distributing a tiny 3 shot group.

 

[wind gypsy]

If I load to max mag length to start and find a seating depth that works well would you recommend using a CBTO measuring tool like the hornady bullet comparator to match that length with every round.

I only measure base to Ogive and distance to lands to set the seating die in the press. After that just load, no need to measure anything. If the die setting is not adjusted i wont bother measuring ammo b2o the next time i load with it either, just screw it back in and start seating bullets. Use a consistent force/speed on the ram to minimize possible seating depth variance.

 

[49ereric]

Up your samples and those groups will likely even out, then you can save a bunch of components by shooting one 10 shot group to verify, instead of ten 3 shot groups that give you false confidence in a load by randomly distributing a tiny 3 shot group.

I’m not a long distance shooter so 3 shot groups work me working up a load plus deer hunting in the woods are short range shots.
old guys always said it was the first shot that counts and often the old guys (when I was a kid) would shoot there rifle once to confirm.
unless they had a Remington 742 carbine then shoot a box and still not be happy