Carbon barrel opinons

[jt4]

I'm ready to pull the trigger on a carbon barrel and a can for my tikka build so I'd like some input on the barrel length and twist rates.

T3X lite - will be sitting in a Mesa stock
30-06 (not intending to rechamber)
Currently shooting 168 ttsx @ 2885 FPS

Planning to add a 7" can at the same time.

It shoots well as it is, and there will be a lot of opinions about leaving it alone bc it works, but I'm justifying it by saying I'm too far down the rabbit hole for that now.

What barrel length and twist ratio would you recommend? Tikkas have a "slower" factory twist rate at 1:11 for the -06. Is there a benefit to going 1:10 or 1:9 shooting 168g?

 

[NSI]

1) Carbon is for looks (and ease of suppressor mounting), not performance or weight.

2) Faster 30 cal twist rates are more versatile with no real downside. I like 1:10 for my 175 Barnes. See the Berger twist calculator.

I did buy a Proof Carbon recently for my 6.5 PRC all terra build. This was ONLY because it was an in-stock Tikka pre-fit at an outstanding price on Optics Planet, and I needed it for an October hunt. Otherwise, my preference remains high quality metal sporter barrels threadedwith 5/8x24 faced flare adapters.

-J

 

[ElPollo]

I am not seeing the carbon barrel thing. The light weight argument doesn’t hold water. I’ve got lighter stainless barrels than you can get in carbon and they shoot fine. The requiring a thicker barrel barrel for your can thing doesn’t hold water. Thread adapters work just fine for me. If you want to shorten a barrel for use with your can, you are SOL with a carbon barrel but not with a steel barrel. There is also no evidence that accuracy is any better. In fact more people are likely to tell you that accuracy is worse with larger calibers. And I personally don’t think they look better. I might not be a cool kid, but the juice is not worth the squeeze for me.

 

[Brontosaurus]

1) Carbon is for looks (and ease of suppressor mounting), not performance or weight.

2) Faster 30 cal twist rates are more versatile with no real downside. I like 1:10 for my 175 Barnes. See the Berger twist calculator.

I did buy a Proof Carbon recently for my 6.5 PRC all terra build. This was ONLY because it was an in-stock Tikka pre-fit at an outstanding price on Optics Planet, and I needed it for an October hunt. Otherwise, my preference remains high quality metal sporter barrels threadedwith 5/8x24 faced flare adapters.

-J

Are you liking the ergos on the allterra stock?

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Buy a Proof or Bartlein or don’t bother. I like a 18-20” for standard calibers when adding a can. It gets your short and handy enough without really neutering the round.

 

[wind gypsy]

If you want to burn $1000 to feel good about having a carbon barrel, go for it. Doesn't make much sense but neither does a lot of the stuff we burn $ on.

11 twist is fine for 168 ttsx. I might lean towards a 10 twist on a new barrel just to have a little more flexibility and margin on stability with other bullets in the future but at the same time i probably wouldn't want to shoot heavies due to velocity with a shorter barreled '06. 18-20" is where I'd want to be if using a can.

I only hunted with a can for 1 season on a 22" barrel (ultra 7) and went back to bare muzzle or brake because it was too long for my liking. Will be using an 18" rifle this year with the can again.

 

[jt4]

How do you like the ultra 7? Worth the $?

 

[NSI]

Are you liking the ergos on the allterra stock?

After hitting a wall with gunwerks it seemed like the logical option for a hybrid stock. So far CS experience has been 10/10, I'll let you know how it shoots in a few weeks.

-J

 

[jt4]

Alright, I went with a 20” 1:10 twist. Hopefully there isn’t too much lost speed with only cutting off just over 2” from the factory length and increasing the twist a bit.

 

[opti12206]

Alright, I went with a 20” 1:10 twist. Hopefully there isn’t too much lost speed with only cutting off just over 2” from the factory length and increasing the twist a bit.

If you haven't already bought a barrel I have a NIB Proof carbon sendero blank 20" 1:10 twist 30 cal I'd sell for cheap.

 

[wnelson14]

If you haven't already bought a barrel I have a NIB Proof carbon sendero blank 20" 1:10 twist 30 cal I'd sell for cheap.

I’m interested if you still have it

 

[thinhorn_AK]

My 18” 30-06 shoots great, it’s super nice with the TBAC ultra 7 on it. If I was getting a new barrel for this gun, I’d get a 1:10 but I’ve never had issues wi the the 1:11. Also, I’d avoid carbon barrels, they are a waste of money and are dumb.

 

[opti12206]

@wnelson14 The barrel is still available. Send me a PM and we can discuss the details.

 

[Smithb9841]

I am not seeing the carbon barrel thing. The light weight argument doesn’t hold water. I’ve got lighter stainless barrels than you can get in carbon and they shoot fine. The requiring a thicker barrel barrel for your can thing doesn’t hold water. Thread adapters work just fine for me. If you want to shorten a barrel for use with your can, you are SOL with a carbon barrel but not with a steel barrel. There is also no evidence that accuracy is any better. In fact more people are likely to tell you that accuracy is worse with larger calibers. And I personally don’t think they look better. I might not be a cool kid, but the juice is not worth the squeeze for me.

The biggest benefit I see and prefer from a carbon barrel is being able to shoot over and over without the need to let the barrel cool down like you usually have to with thinner metal sporter barrels.

My kimber and browning x bolt start to open up after 3-4 shots. My rifle with a carbon barrel I can shoot and shoot and not have to let cool down.

 

[ElPollo]

The biggest benefit I see and prefer from a carbon barrel is being able to shoot over and over without the need to let the barrel cool down like you usually have to with thinner metal sporter barrels.

My kimber and browning x bolt start to open up after 3-4 shots. My rifle with a carbon barrel I can shoot and shoot and not have to let cool down.

I’m curious what experience/data you are basing that observation on. I don’t consider 3-4 shot groups to be long strings so I would appreciate a little explanation if you don’t mind. I pretty regularly shoot 10+ round strings from my steel barrels. What is a long string for your carbon barrels? Also, what do you consider starting to “open up” for both steel and carbon barrels?

 

[Smithb9841]

I’m curious what experience/data you are basing that observation on. I don’t consider 3-4 shot groups to be long strings so I would appreciate a little explanation if you don’t mind. I pretty regularly shoot 10+ round strings from my steel barrels. What is a long string for your carbon barrels? Also, what do you consider starting to “open up” for both steel and carbon barrels?

I don’t consider 3-4 shot groups as a long string either, that’s what I mean if I shoot 3-4 shots with my Kimber or X bolt my groups will open up dramatically sometimes 2” at 100 yards especially with the kimber. these are both thin sporter barrels so that is somewhat expected

In comparison I can shoot 15-20 rounds in a short period with my carbon barreled rifle
And then shoot the same Group I did with a cool barrel without letting it cool. I’ve never specifically shot just to see how many rounds before my groups open up, but I have also shot quite a bit and seen no change.

 

[Formidilosus]

The biggest benefit I see and prefer from a carbon barrel is being able to shoot over and over without the need to let the barrel cool down like you usually have to with thinner metal sporter barrels.

My kimber and browning x bolt start to open up after 3-4 shots. My rifle with a carbon barrel I can shoot and shoot and not have to let cool down.

I don’t consider 3-4 shot groups as a long string either, that’s what I mean if I shoot 3-4 shots with my Kimber or X bolt my groups will open up dramatically sometimes 2” at 100 yards especially with the kimber. these are both thin sporter barrels so that is somewhat expected

In comparison I can shoot 15-20 rounds in a short period with my carbon barreled rifle
And then shoot the same Group I did with a cool barrel without letting it cool. I’ve never specifically shot just to see how many rounds before my groups open up, but I have also shot quite a bit and seen no change.

That isn’t a “thin sporter barrel” thing, that’s a non stress relieved barrel thing- I.E., good barrels don’t walk or open up when hot.

 

[TxLite]

That isn’t a “thin sporter barrel” thing, that’s a non stress relieved barrel thing- I.E., good barrels don’t walk or open up when hot.

Not to derail, but what stress relieved steel prefit would you recommend that comes in a hunting profile?

 

[MT_Wyatt]

I’ve got a 20” C6 in sendero. It heats up super quick in my 7 PRC compared to my previous 26” 300 WM Barrrel from Christensen. Although sendero the C6 is certainly a thinner profile at the muzzle end.

 

[4th_point]

My kimber and browning x bolt start to open up after 3-4 shots. My rifle with a carbon barrel I can shoot and shoot and not have to let cool down.

Do you know who made the barrel for your Kimber?

I had a factory 84M that shot well screaming hot or cold. Unfortunately, I didn't check the barrel stamp for manufacturer.

My latest Kimber has a Bergara but I have not shot it yet.