Can someone just tell me what broadheads to buy?
- Thread starter Augustus46
- Start date
Agree but its great for practicing to really show any faults in your shooting. With that said you may find yourself in need of a follow up shot at 60 yards one day.
Tag_Soup
WKR
It has been fairly well covered here, but i'll add my $0.02...
It is going to depend on what qualities are most important to you in a head. A few things to consider:
1) mechanicals are not legal in every state and can have deployment issues in some cases, but I would bet more deer are killed with them nation wide than fixed. Not my cup of tea, so I won't recommend them.
2) A mechanical that is poorly tuned will GENERALLY fly more true to field points than a fixed blade
3) "Barbed" broadheads are not legal in every state (angle less than 90 degrees to the shaft from the back edge of the blade)
4) Penetration on any head will be greatly reduced if the arrow is out of tune
5) Large cutting diameter heads will typically have less penetration. I prefer to stay under 1 1/4" cut diameter for mule deer and elk
6) In my personal experience, the majority of replaceable blade fixed heads do not spin test perfectly as often as fixed/non-replaceable blade heads.
7) your broadhead should be the same weight as the field points that you shoot with in general - since you are fairly new to this, i would try to stick with this until you know how to tune the different point weights.
Some good heads:
1) Shuttle T-locks - always spun well for me and have killed shit with them. Never failed me or had a head break when hitting ribs/offside shoulder
2) Montec CS - sharp out of the box and spin well. Have several buddies that shoot these to good effect. Like them much better than standard montec
3) Magnus Stinger or Stinger Buzcut - great value for fixed blade heads. Requires a well tuned arrow to shoot with field points
4) VPA - 2 blade is very solid and have shot well for me. Haven't tried the 3 blade, but I assume they are great as well.
5) Ramcat - great head, have seen them tune well. not leagal in idaho (barbed)
6) Slick Tricks - Tune very easily in my experience. Have seen them get damaged fairly easily, but they fly well out quite a ways
7) QAD Exodus - Have seen these fly identical to field points way out there. Not Idaho legal in the swept version (barbed).
8) Solid broadheads or Iron Will - These fall into the "high end" category, but are awesome. Up to you if you want to spend the money required.
Any of these heads will serve you well, as would a number of different options, depending on what qualities you want in a head. With your spec of a 60 yard max shot, I would grab some Magnus on sale somewhere and shoot them. The biggest factors at ranges inside 60 is having a well tuned bow and arrows set up for hunting IMHO. I would suggest staying north of 450 grains overall arrow weight if you can. Spin test your arrows and practice with broadheads attached enough to be confident.
All this said, I personally still use the shuttle T-locks most of the time. This is because I have confidence in them and can get replacement blades. I will practice with them for a month before season, then swap out blades and spin test. I will shoot them once to validate prior to going out. I may swap to a "premium" head for next year...we shall see?
It is going to depend on what qualities are most important to you in a head. A few things to consider:
1) mechanicals are not legal in every state and can have deployment issues in some cases, but I would bet more deer are killed with them nation wide than fixed. Not my cup of tea, so I won't recommend them.
2) A mechanical that is poorly tuned will GENERALLY fly more true to field points than a fixed blade
3) "Barbed" broadheads are not legal in every state (angle less than 90 degrees to the shaft from the back edge of the blade)
4) Penetration on any head will be greatly reduced if the arrow is out of tune
5) Large cutting diameter heads will typically have less penetration. I prefer to stay under 1 1/4" cut diameter for mule deer and elk
6) In my personal experience, the majority of replaceable blade fixed heads do not spin test perfectly as often as fixed/non-replaceable blade heads.
7) your broadhead should be the same weight as the field points that you shoot with in general - since you are fairly new to this, i would try to stick with this until you know how to tune the different point weights.
Some good heads:
1) Shuttle T-locks - always spun well for me and have killed shit with them. Never failed me or had a head break when hitting ribs/offside shoulder
2) Montec CS - sharp out of the box and spin well. Have several buddies that shoot these to good effect. Like them much better than standard montec
3) Magnus Stinger or Stinger Buzcut - great value for fixed blade heads. Requires a well tuned arrow to shoot with field points
4) VPA - 2 blade is very solid and have shot well for me. Haven't tried the 3 blade, but I assume they are great as well.
5) Ramcat - great head, have seen them tune well. not leagal in idaho (barbed)
6) Slick Tricks - Tune very easily in my experience. Have seen them get damaged fairly easily, but they fly well out quite a ways
7) QAD Exodus - Have seen these fly identical to field points way out there. Not Idaho legal in the swept version (barbed).
8) Solid broadheads or Iron Will - These fall into the "high end" category, but are awesome. Up to you if you want to spend the money required.
Any of these heads will serve you well, as would a number of different options, depending on what qualities you want in a head. With your spec of a 60 yard max shot, I would grab some Magnus on sale somewhere and shoot them. The biggest factors at ranges inside 60 is having a well tuned bow and arrows set up for hunting IMHO. I would suggest staying north of 450 grains overall arrow weight if you can. Spin test your arrows and practice with broadheads attached enough to be confident.
All this said, I personally still use the shuttle T-locks most of the time. This is because I have confidence in them and can get replacement blades. I will practice with them for a month before season, then swap out blades and spin test. I will shoot them once to validate prior to going out. I may swap to a "premium" head for next year...we shall see?
mfllood3800
WKR
Ha ha. That's what I was thinking.
I thought , oh boy can't ask that and not Get more confused
By the way Get a set of 125 gr Montec fixed blades
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
I thought , oh boy can't ask that and not Get more confused
By the way Get a set of 125 gr Montec fixed blades
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Hunt Oregon
FNG
Shuttle T's haven't let me down yet and fly great out to 110 yards
Jeff Martin
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No, we can't as you can see.
LIWolverine
WKR
Slick Trick Mag
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HookUp
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I did a lot of testing on broad heads shot into Rhinehart targets and into wood. After repeadtly shooting heads you quickly see who uses higher grades of steel. There is also a rather lengthy youtube video shooting 40 heads into bone, a lot of them do not do well.
Kudu 100 grain bent to 30 degrees on a wood block at 30 yards.
WASP Drone 100 grain came apart in rhitehart target
Wasp Drone 125 no issue blades seem weak as they chip from foam targets.
Muzzy Trocar great head occasional nicks from foam.
WAC em most accurate, blades fall out occasionally and are thin.
QAD exxodus have had several blades and chip from my foam targets, I hear amazing reports from hunters with this head.
Slick Trick viper stainless steel, by far the most durable head I have shot yet. Stays solid through foam and did not bend when shot into a block of wood. I am hands down the most impressed with this head and will be taking it to the field.
For a mechanical my choice is NAP KILL Zone, depending on the state I will use mechanicals if legal.
BROADHEAD PENETRATION TEST PART 3 | BONE TESTING | MECHANICAL VS FIXED BLADE - YouTube
Kudu 100 grain bent to 30 degrees on a wood block at 30 yards.
WASP Drone 100 grain came apart in rhitehart target
Wasp Drone 125 no issue blades seem weak as they chip from foam targets.
Muzzy Trocar great head occasional nicks from foam.
WAC em most accurate, blades fall out occasionally and are thin.
QAD exxodus have had several blades and chip from my foam targets, I hear amazing reports from hunters with this head.
Slick Trick viper stainless steel, by far the most durable head I have shot yet. Stays solid through foam and did not bend when shot into a block of wood. I am hands down the most impressed with this head and will be taking it to the field.
For a mechanical my choice is NAP KILL Zone, depending on the state I will use mechanicals if legal.
BROADHEAD PENETRATION TEST PART 3 | BONE TESTING | MECHANICAL VS FIXED BLADE - YouTube
Last edited:
same here, since 1990.
Both my cousin and brother in law are new to archery this year. both are shooting a little slower bow with lower poundage and 50yds max ranges. after researching all the fixed heads we always came back to either Shuttle T's and any of the slick tricks. Only test done was an accident with a 100gr shuttle t. Shot a concrete retaining wall @ 20yds. did not bent the head and all and only dulled the blades "broke the arrow" stepped back to 50 and it still grouped with field points.
No experience on game, but in research, i have almost never heard anything bad about either shuttle t's or any of the slick tricks.
125 shuttle t's and 125 slick trick viper tricks around the campfire this season.
No experience on game, but in research, i have almost never heard anything bad about either shuttle t's or any of the slick tricks.
125 shuttle t's and 125 slick trick viper tricks around the campfire this season.
R
roadrunner
Guest
If you want to just screw on a BH and go, Wac'em is tough to beat.
Beendare
"DADDY"
Thats because there are tradeoffs in BH design......you have to pick which 'feature' you think is a priority.
So you need to decide on a design first.
You didn't say what your setup was; it makes a difference as a guy shooting 350gr arrows in a 50# bow is better off with a very efficient design [ie- 2 blade fixed or tapered 3 blade COC] A guy shooting higher #s has more options; just about anything works.
Fixed or mech;
Yes a fixed head steers a little out of your bow....IF YOUR BOW IS NOT TUNED. So if you are incapable of tuning for perfect arrow flight you are better off with a mech head or small low profile fixed head with less steerage. This doesn't completely solve your less than perfect arrow flight problem which creates peripheral problems on hunting shots...but with solid shot selection and decent shot distances, you will get by.
Since you are a rookie; its worth mentioning that improper arrow assembly is crucial with any BH. They have to be perfectly straight....spin checked...with zero wobble. Years ago when testing arrows that were .002" vs arrows that were .004" [.004" is right where they appeared to spin perfect vertical on a hard surface but showed a slight wobble on spin checker] My 50 yd groups avg'd 50% larger with the .004" vs .002" and small fixed design. You want them straight with any BH.
225nontypical
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Ag111
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I really enjoyed watching this video, thanks for posting it.
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