Cam and a Half Timing

Advance the Top Cam or Even

  • Advanced

    Votes: 9 81.8%
  • Even

    Votes: 2 18.2%

  • Total voters
    11
I get asked this quite frequently in regards to tuning so I figured I would share a short reasoning behind it.

Most hybrid cams will require the top cam to hit slightly ahead. This will be more apparent when you get into really fine tuning a setup with creep tuning. The reason behind this is do to the the extra flex on the Control cable as your top cam hits at the same time as the bottom. When you synch so top cam is ahead you are pre loading the control cable and then when the bottom cam hits the buss cable your top cam is more firm with pressure on the control cable. This will give you less variance when pulling through the shot and tighter groups as a whole. With that said, it is a small window and never nothing drastic as far as cam advancement.

When this is done it is not a matter of adjusting for it and calling it good. Your rest will need to be adjusted accordingly to work together to get the best possible vertical nock travel.

Now if you have a drawboard you can take your bow to full draw and lock it in just before the cams hit your cables. Then apply pressure with your finger where the cams will hit the cables on top and bootom. You will notice how much extra flex is in the control cable in comparison to the bottom cam hitting the buss cable.

Hope this helps shed some light as to why it works and the reasons behind it.
 
Creep tuning has always dictated my cam
Position on cam and a halfs, but usually they seem to tune with the top cam slightly advanced.
 
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This is where Im at this the bow I was talking about earlier. But brace is still long and max draw weight is hitting right at 68.8lbs w 70lb limbs. Leave it or adjust it???? And the top cam is advanced about 1/16th.
 
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This is where Im at this the bow I was talking about earlier. But brace is still long and max draw weight is hitting right at 68.8lbs w 70lb limbs. Leave it or adjust it???? And the top cam is advanced about 1/16th.

I would retune for 70# then recheck timing. A turn and a half in the Buss and one turn in the Control should leave your timing about where it's at and should put you spot on for poundage. Generally, most Hoyts I have worked on will hit a touch higher than 70.
 
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This is where Im at this the bow I was talking about earlier. But brace is still long and max draw weight is hitting right at 68.8lbs w 70lb limbs. Leave it or adjust it???? And the top cam is advanced about 1/16th.

If it shoots good and is comfortable id leave it. But shooting bareshafts into a bag target is hard to judge how they are really entering the target. Also I have never seen a hoyt not max out at least 2lbs over advertised draw weight. I've heard that if cams are switched IE from 2-3 cam or vice versa that poundage can change but I have no proof of that, just somethin I've read so take that as it is.
 
My bow isn't maxing out either. But it's shooting so well I'm not gonna touch it.

A good problem to have. I seem to be hunting all the time! Deer in two weeks. Pronghorn, pronghorn, then pigs. I don't have time to get my bow tuned better. :)
 
My bow isn't maxing out either. But it's shooting so well I'm not gonna touch it.

A good problem to have. I seem to be hunting all the time! Deer in two weeks. Pronghorn, pronghorn, then pigs. I don't have time to get my bow tuned better. :)

Turn it up and check it. If it is too much hassle, turn it back down.
 
So the more I twist the buss, the leg yokes wind up, I unwrap a leg and then I have too much cam lean, I twist that leg back up some for the lean, and it wraps itself around the other leg again. Its driving me insane. Im starting to wonder if the strings werent made quite right, if I could get the buss to twist up more I thing I could reach my goals, it just wont tolerate anymore without negative results, and im still only at 69.8 pounds. I should have just left it, thanks a lot guys!
 
Take the cables off and measure them. Then twist them to spec under tension. Put them back on and you should be just a few twists away from where you need to be.


It was recommended to me by Darin Cooper to put a 1/4 peg in my archery bench to put one end of the cable around and allows you to put tension on them.
 
Ok I will try that, like how much tension? As much as I can with my hand? And how do you do that with the buss and the two legs?
 
I believe they are supposed to be measured under about a 100lbs of tension so you can use that as a reference. The yoke will twist up while under tension but once your done just untwist it and measure. If it needs more repeat.
 
Just use your body weight. I bought a piece of 1/4" steel dowel and drove a peg into my bench slipped one end on it and the other I put around a old valve out of a 350 Chevy Nice smooth surface on the valve stem. Twisted them up and measured as I went along. I also bought some sticky sided steel measuring tape and laid that out on the bench from the peg to take measurements from.
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I engineered a little and put a 1/4" peg in my draw board and using my scale measured and twisted then stretched to 100lbs then put them back on. Made the world of difference, everything fell right I to spec. Only thing I noticed was I could only get about 70.50lbs out of it, but everything else was good. I switched legs on the yoke and that really helped with adjustment for cam lean. Thanks for all the help gents.
 
I engineered a little and put a 1/4" peg in my draw board and using my scale measured and twisted then stretched to 100lbs then put them back on. Made the world of difference, everything fell right I to spec. Only thing I noticed was I could only get about 70.50lbs out of it, but everything else was good. I switched legs on the yoke and that really helped with adjustment for cam lean. Thanks for all the help gents.

I found that I had to twist them a 1/16th or so shorter to get my bows to max out at 72-73lbs.
 
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