Cam and a Half Timing

[Brandon Pattison]

Advance the top 1/16" or even?

 

[RosinBag]

Each bow is different, lots of factors that determine which way shoots best.

 

[c5mrr270]

I start a hair fast and then creep tune.

 

[mt100gr.]

I doubt mine is even a 16th fast but it is definitely advanced just a hair. I have found this to be the spot for my last two cam and a half rigs.

 

[Manosteel]

I've got mine advanced by a hair more then 1/16. Never had a bow tuned and shoot so well before.

 

[Styles]

Mine is just a hair advanced!! Maybe 1/64 early!! Shoots lights out!!

 

[boom]

Should I be worried that I have zero clue as to what you guys are chatting about?

 

[Brandon Pattison]

Should I be worried that I have zero clue as to what you guys are chatting about?

Most guys on this website like their top cam to hit the draw stop first (so the bottom cam has a 1/16" gap when the top hits). Over on AT, the results are quite different.

 

[ChadS]

Im with everybody else, top cam advanced

 

[Craig Van Arsdale]

I am a little over an 1/16th right now and I really like the feel with the top slightly advanced.

 

[ChadS]

Not to hijack this thread but im fighting with a 2011 Hoyt CE right now and I cannot get the brace height to shorten, its 1/4" too long and no matter how many twists I take out of the string, it doesnt change at all. What am I missing?

 

[boom]

Draw stops are even with each other and cam advanced?

Mine might be like that but it was just dumb luck if anything b

 

[Eagle]

Not to hijack this thread but im fighting with a 2011 Hoyt CE right now and I cannot get the brace height to shorten, its 1/4" too long and no matter how many twists I take out of the string, it doesnt change at all. What am I missing?

The string doesn't do much of anything to the specs on a Hoyt, the two cables are what drive the specs. I couldn't tell you which one to mess with as it's been too long since the last time I played with one, but messing with the string won't change much if anything.

 

[RosinBag]

If the cams are times properly, twist both cables up equally. Two twists each may shorten it a 1/4". Peak weight will change a little also.

 

[Styles]

Not to hijack this thread but im fighting with a 2011 Hoyt CE right now and I cannot get the brace height to shorten, its 1/4" too long and no matter how many twists I take out of the string, it doesnt change at all. What am I missing?

If your draw length and draw weight are where you want...I would be too concerned about the BH!! Did you put new strings on?

 

[Styles]

*wouldnt*

 

[Craig Van Arsdale]

Not to hijack this thread but im fighting with a 2011 Hoyt CE right now and I cannot get the brace height to shorten, its 1/4" too long and no matter how many twists I take out of the string, it doesnt change at all. What am I missing?

Did someone take the grip off??

 

[ChadS]

Grip is off, but I measured it both ways. They are new strings and im not sold on how 'to spec' they were made. I got the bow real close to where I want it, except for the BH, so maybe I will jusy leave it as is. The more I twist the buss and control, the more I get yoke twist up at the 'v'

 

[RosinBag]

You can just unhook one side of the yoke and untwist it from the other without untwisting the yoke itself.

If it is all good and the only thing off is BH, leave it. Realize the spec numbers come from bows with the limb bolts all the way down and a specific module. So an A module will measure different from an E module but the specs show they are all the same.

Specs are a guide, if it is close it is good.

 

[Craig Van Arsdale]

Through my trials be it I am still very new to tuning I found that I had to twist the cables under some tension for best results. This should help with the yoke twisting up on you while trying to get the cables back to spec.