Calling all yee tile setters

[4rcgoat]

Tore out an old fiberglass shower in the basement, want to do a tile shower. Standard 5' width bathroom. Can I make a curb myself with some forms and mortar mix? Would redi mix concrete be better? Should it be doweled into the slab? Rebar or mesh?.........dumb idea?

 

[Nickofthewoods]

For the curb I've done 2x4's or 2x6's to get whatever height and width you want the curb to be, leave enough of your oatey membrane to lay over the top of the boards, then your durock over that, and then your mortar and tile.

 

[Dust Rider]

^^ What Nick said. Hardy 1/2“ tile cement board is easier to work with than Durarock. Seam seal the tile board with fiberglass tape and thin set. RedGard or similar waterproofing compound over cement board. Same if you build a bench/seat and relief between studs for shampoo shelf etc.

 

[Fatcamp]

Save yourself a lot of hassle and use the Schluter Kerdi system.

 

[justpassingthru]

I do the stuff for a living and I agree with the Schluter system. Get one of their shower pans that fits the area best, trim it down as needed. And get their drain system. Very much worth the money. For the walls cement board/hardie with a liquid waterproofing is good. Maybe the best option is a product called GoBoard, very easy to install. You just seal the seams with their caulk. Use the Schluter Kerdi band where the shower floor (pan) meets the walls. I’ve installed dozens of showers this way and I’ve never had a problem

 

[Fatcamp]

Ya, I'm an RN now but set tile for 15 years. It's the only way I would do it, and I could dry pack float the whole thing if I wanted.

 

[HighUintas]

I would also go the schluter pan route. I happened to find a regular pan that would work in the space with the screwing bench I built in, so opted out on the schluter.

I used GP DensShield for my backer. It was pretty easy to work with and I like the built in membrane. If I were going to build my own curb, this is what I would use.

 

[Deadfall]

Shlueter pan is way to go if you have level surface. Assume your basement is cement. If there's been any heaving the floor isn't level. Would have to be leveled. Also will need to make sure you can get a schluter pan with drain in right place to match existing drain. Otherwise will have to cut cement and change drain.

With shortages on everything these days. You may have trouble getting the right schlueter pan.

With a cement floor you may not have enough room for a schluter drain. Be careful going that route

 

[4rcgoat]

I do the stuff for a living and I agree with the Schluter system. Get one of their shower pans that fits the area best, trim it down as needed. And get their drain system. Very much worth the money. For the walls cement board/hardie with a liquid waterproofing is good. Maybe the best option is a product called GoBoard, very easy to install. You just seal the seams with their caulk. Use the Schluter Kerdi band where the shower floor (pan) meets the walls. I’ve installed dozens of showers this way and I’ve never had a problem

Thanks for the replies all. I'm familiar with the old school 2x4 curb with the rubber sheet. I like the idea of the schluder system,just didn't seem worth the money if one could be made,obviously I'm no expert. My plan was to try and slope a dry pack and waterproof everything with kirdy fabric. Seems like that is what is being used in most houses.
Pre sloped floor would be great,my drain is not in the center if that makes any difference.

 

[Jon Boy]

I'm not sure if laticrete has a pre made pan but I enjoyed working with there hydro ban board for walls more than the schluter system.

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[justpassingthru]

OP, to answer your curb question. If you go with a kerdi shower pan which I HIGHLY recommend especially if you’ve never done a dry pack sloped mortar bed, then you can just Tapcon some PT 2x4s to the slab and cover them with whatever you cover the walls with and waterproof accordingly

 

[Nickofthewoods]

Found some pictures of my master shower that I built a few years ago that might help you. This project was similar in that I had to tear out the old fiber glass insert and start over from the concrete subfloor and studs. I did it the hard way and sloped the floor myself because the drain also wasn't in the middle and I didn't know how else to do it. It turned out great but since then I've helped a friend with his and he used a pre-pitch system to help with sloping, but his drain was in the middle so it was easy to use the guides. I think I used three 2x6's for my curb.

 

[Muley82]

An option that might work really well for you is a precast Redi-Tile pan system. They're not cheap, but if your time is worth enough to you it may be worth it in time savings and simplicity. The curb is built in, floor is pre-sloped to drain, and floor to wall/inside corners are preformed and naturally waterproof. As long as the subfloor is level both directions, the install is super easy and straightforward, (set in thinset and check for level) . They have a variety of sizes and drain configurations. Floor and curb tiles are set in epoxy. If you have all the floor tiles pre-cut and fully test fit before you mix the epoxy it goes really quick. I recommend the available plastic seam flashing for wallboard to pan lip joint. I used a precast quartz window sill slab for the curb which made those corners and dealing with a sloped room floor a breeze. Hardi-board walls with mesh taped seams, and 3 coats of Redgaurd or equivalent, or you can use the newer tech foam panels which cost more but are water proof, lightweight and really easy to work with (cut with a razor blade or sheer. With those you only need to seal the seams and fastener penetrations. Best of luck on your project whichever method you choose!

 

[couesbitten]

I've done quite a bit of tilework for myself, from 800 sq ft of floor tile and two showers in my last house, to the two showers and bathroom floors in my current house. Can't say enough good things about the information I was able to glean from https://www.johnbridge.com/. I also bought his book and recommend watching as many YouTube videos as you can to brush up on your questions and ideas. It's not rocket science, but doing an adequate amount of research prior to starting can make a huge difference in the outcome.
If you don't use something like the Schluter pan and decide to do your own dry pack shower floor, I'd highly recommend this, takes out all of the guess work and makes it "easy".

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W0Z3W4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck, ask lots of questions here and don't rush.

 

[Hoosker Doo]

I also used to do tile full time and now do it as a side gig part of the year. Schluter stuff is great but is pricey. If you're wanting to save money on overhead or your drain isn't centered so you need to do a custom shower pan, I like to use the Goof Proof shower kit by Mark E Industries.

https://www.amazon.com/Mark-Industries-Standard-Shower-SSK-401/dp/B018A1PU3W/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=61753648022&gclid=CjwKCAiA-8SdBhBGEiwAWdgtcIaAupR0UpmGQFR5MjTiVWWt6fFDfKLjCJKu9kfRw1AG2V7LKHjb6BoC6RkQAvD_BwE&hvadid=580808005897&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9029384&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11943265069491429191&hvtargid=kwd-377244387104&hydadcr=20125_13324748&keywords=goof+proof+shower+pan+kit&qid=1672623452&sr=8-4

I just order off Amazon and it makes it very easy to pour your own pan without having to guess on slope. The curb is just 3 2x4's stacked and they provide a plastic framework that you pack with mud and end up with a solid concrete shower pan and curb. There's videos on amazon and YouTube that show how to do it all. Very easy if you already have some construction and tile skills.

 

[woods89]

Another fan of the Schluter Kerdi system here. I'm a remodeler. Yes, the Kerdi system is extra cost but for me it saves some labor.

 

[gbflyer]

I called a guy that does tile as a job. I have no idea what he did. It took some time and I’m happy.


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