I have a nephew with a similar situation - when we run the numbers on modifying the existing space, it’s hard to get things to pencil out. Rather than spend a lot to remove and rebuild what you have, it might be nice to add on a great room with a higher vaulted ceiling. The additional sqft also adds to the appraised value, whereas vaulting an existing ceiling won’t change the valuation at all.
I don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze in this case when you look at it objectively. There are way better ways to spend the money that this would cost and the fact that none of the 4 contractors you spoke to didn’t say that is scary. There’s been some good guidance on here so far, but it’s not just the best way to spend your money.
Nope, just looks like this. We never finished it off because we weren't sure how we wanted to do the ceiling. Yeah, I figured there were better ways to spend the money. Stayed in one too many cabins that had cathedral ceilings and kind of pushed me to look into getting it done on my place. Estimate I have now to do the work and finish it with Tongue and Groove is $20K.
To do the project or how the current roof is with the metal and OSB?
There’s really no need for OSB and felt paper if you’re installing metal roofing over the purlins.
Does this not cause condensation issues in your area? I know Colorado is a lot different than where I'm from in Southern MO (my hunting partner runs a spray foam business in the Fort Collins area), but here metal panels over purlins will give you a lot of dripping in certain conditions.
Agreed that they are not insulative, however, if we have to mess with a rolled insulation I'd just as soon sheet it with Zip and be dried in. It seems like having that barrier generally is just enough to isolate the panel tempwise. I also like solid sheeting when there are complicated flashing details or valleys involved, as appropriate blocking for trim can get pretty extensive. And it should go without saying that sheeting or rolled insulation is only supplementing proper attic insulation, whether loose fill above the ceiling or foam encapsulating the attic.
Curious, just another option. Would engineered Timber Trusses every so feet OC be another solution instead of going with a ridge beam?
Roof sheathing with OSB usually serves a few purposes: 1) something to walk on and secure roofing 2) it is what provides the resistance from horizontal forces (wind/seismic). If you eliminate it, you need another way to handle the horizontal forces, which probably could be done with standing seam metal but you'd need careful detailing because the cladding would become a structural element.
they could be used as the rafters if sized correctly but not the ridge
without redoing everything youve done... No that is a post and beam style construction. those would be set. then T&G installed then insulation board on top of that then roofing panels. you insulate out instead of in like you have currently
