Build me a new Tikka

[Harvey_NW]

If I wasn't planning to shoot matches or do that type of shooting, I'd just keep the stock barrel.

What benefit do you think a Proof offers over a factory Tikka barrel for shooting matches?

 

[bazzturd]

What benefit do you think a Proof offers over a factory Tikka barrel for shooting matches?

Heat tolerance. My experience with factory contour especially lite contours is they start to throw flyers and spray after 4-5 shots in a row.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Heat tolerance. My experience with factory contour especially lite contours is they start to throw flyers and spray after 4-5 shots in a row.

You should give this thread a read -

Thread 'Cold bore zero versus (very) Hot bore zero “test”'

Sep 9, 2023

Discussions around “cold bore shifts” and “cold bore zeroes” versus “warm or hot barrel zeroes” are constant. So is the belief that barrels “walk” when they heat up or that groups open when they heat up.

After having multiple discussions, @Ryan Avery and Jake @Unknown Munitions and I set up a day to shoot and measure what happens. Quite a bit of discussion happened with getting everyone on the same page, and explaining the limitations and resolution that would be able to be measured. Basically- the more data, the mare accurate the results will be. However, there is a...

• Formidilosus
• Replies: 306
• Forum: Firearms

• 

 

[bazzturd]

You should give this thread a read -

Thread 'Cold bore zero versus (very) Hot bore zero “test”'

Sep 9, 2023

Discussions around “cold bore shifts” and “cold bore zeroes” versus “warm or hot barrel zeroes” are constant. So is the belief that barrels “walk” when they heat up or that groups open when they heat up.

After having multiple discussions, @Ryan Avery and Jake @Unknown Munitions and I set up a day to shoot and measure what happens. Quite a bit of discussion happened with getting everyone on the same page, and explaining the limitations and resolution that would be able to be measured. Basically- the more data, the mare accurate the results will be. However, there is a...

• Formidilosus
• Replies: 306
• Forum: Firearms

• 

Gun #4 and #8 would be closest to mine stock but neither are fluted like the super lite. Without comparing to a proof barrel or similar, not sure the data is as relevant as I would like given that all shots were at 100 yards. Bullet velocity is most subject to deviation when hot. That was a lot of work they did and was cool to read over their hard work. I didn't see any chronograph data which would really paint a picture of what these shots will start doing after 300 yards. After viewing a video a while back of a stock Sig Cross vs Sig Cross with Proof, I was pretty sold on the affect of a hot barrel on longer shots with significantly better SD on the proof.

Stop making me second guess, I want to trick out my ride man!!! HAHAHA

 

[Harvey_NW]

Stop making me second guess, I want to trick out my ride man!!! HAHAHA

Most of the tests I see elsewhere have zero statistical validity to them so I like coming back to threads like that where it was done with fair sample sizes and actual documented live fire rounds. Not all barrels are created equal either, specifically since this is a Tikka thread is why I would question how much benefit there would actually be to replacing one, and if it were worth the cost.

I'm all for custom barrels! Here I'll give you a supportive reason, Tikka barrels are notoriously "slow" by nature, so if you're building an optimized match rifle you better go with a quality cut rifled to get that extra speed!

 

[Balderdash]

The only competition I do is for grins with friends, so dont really "need" more that what a lot of factory guns will do these days. Just the same, I'm interested in the most accurate rigs I can put together, and I haven't noticed much difference in accuracy potential between OEM Tikka and a few custom barrels I've ran through the years. Certainly, Tikka's twist rates could be a little faster in certain cartridges, but I've still had pretty good luck running heavy for caliber bullets at less than optimal twists at near sea level.

A few years back I needed a new barrel for a Tikka 7mm RM. It was a year or two before 7PRC rumors were floating around, elstwise I likely would've gone that route with an aftermarket barrel. Ended up ordering a take off 7mm RM from JA, and went right back to cutting tiny groups with a number of different loads.

 

[Tikka325wsm]

I've always found Tikka stock barrels to be of pretty good quality and easy to clean with not too many tooling marks. Just my experience.

 

[Tikka325wsm]

Gila,​

I too had a McGowen barrel installed a few years back on my custom Tikka T3 in .325wsm. Fantastic quality and unbelievably accurate. I'm really happy with it.

 

[Balderdash]

I've always found Tikka stock barrels to be of pretty good quality and easy to clean with not too many tooling marks. Just my experience.

I've had the same experiences. I've bought several Tikka take offs from JA and off classifieds, and they shoot every bit as good as the custom shouldered and aftermarket pre fits I've ran through the years. Be nice if they updated some twist rates and offered more modern cartridges, but there's not really a lot that can't be covered with OEM Tikka barrels in 1:8 223, 6.5 CM and 6.5 PRC's

 

[ColPenguin]

It feels very different from my well-seasoned T3 Stainless. If I side load the bolt at all, I can feel it bind. It always powers through, and is definitely better than a Ruger American or something like that off the rack, but it feels like it's not broken in, or the finish is a bit coarse and needs seasoning.

It sounds like one of the action screws might be a hair too long and is catching the bolt.

Take them out and file them down a hair if there is a high spot catching.

 

[PC356]

Carbon barrels are a trendy useless gimmick. Just my take.

 

[Packmansion]

Just buy a stock 6.5 creed or 243 win tikka and spend the rest on amazing glass.

 

[Gila]

Sounds like OP wants something special and rather unique. I would stick with the T3 action because it has a standard boltface. But it should be understood that the ejection port is smaller than the T3x. Since OP handloads, the door is open to some great possibilities. The .284 Win is an awesome cartridge. Winchester came out with it over 60 years ago to get 270 Win ballistics from their lever gun of the time. But the cartridge wasn’t very popular until Melvin Forbes came out with the NULA. It was designed for sheep hunters who carry a rifle up a mountain and need good accuracy at long ranges..

Wilson bought out Melvin Forbes somewhat recently. They scrapped the 284 Win for the model 20 because there isn’t any factory ammo available for the cartridge. The 284 Win and derivatives still dominate F-Class. Lapua makes 284 win brass although their brass has been going to the war effort and 284 win has been rather hard to come by. Peterson has stepped up to the plate to fill the void. The 284 win has been reported to have excellent barrel life and is very easy to tune. I use Winchester LR primers and H4350 to shoot a 162 gr ELD with good velocity. Some hunters who shoot suppressed seem to be going to the 6.5 x 284 Norma. Same case as the 284 Win just necked down to 6.5 for more velocity. I have seen on the various hunting forums that some of the 6.5 PRC hand loaders are dealing with clickers, but I don’t know what the cause is.

Actually you are building a custom rifle using a Tikka action and trigger. I wanted a lightweight carbon stock. I tried AICS mags. Those mags were too heavy and didn’t work so well for me so I went back to the original Tikka mags. I also went with a SS barrel with spiral flutes to shave some weight. I installed Trijicon scopes because they are lighter than Nightforce. McGowen custom barrels are good barrels. Send three dummy rounds in with your order and their gunsmith will remove your old barrel, optimize the chamber on the new barrel for your loads, and install the new barrel. Just some food for thought. Have fun!

 

[Harvey_NW]

I have seen on the various hunting forums that some of the 6.5 PRC hand loaders are dealing with clickers, but I don’t know what the cause is.

Interfering tolerances because Hornady got cute. The AW2 reamer is the fix, and most quality gunsmiths are using it as the standard to chamber 6.5 PRC's so it's a non issue for a custom.

 

[Diamondback]

Rebarrel you 7mm-08 to 6.5 Creedmoor and take advantage of lower recoil and higher BC 6.5mm bullets.

The 270 WSM, I would sell it.
That will give you everything you want out to 600yds, great factory ammo selection, and endless reloading. If you want to go further than 600yds, just buy a 6.5 PRC and reload for it.