Broadheads not on target

[AskingForAFriend]

My field tips to 65 are 0-3” groups.

By broad heads are fixed 4 blade viper tricks and groups are 0-4” at 65 yards.

Problem is that field tip group is on/around bullseye and broad heads are 4” high and 10” right of bullseye.

Hamskea limb driven rest.

Fix me

 

[livingandlearning]

Broadhead Tuning 101: A How to Guide to Bare Shaft Tune Any Bow | argalioutdoors.com

By Josh Kirchner In our piece on common causes of bad broadhead flight, we discussed the most likely culprits of bad broadhead flight. In this piece, we are going to walk you through the actual process of broadhead tuning, including our preferred method of broadhead tuning, bare shaft tuning...

argalioutdoors.com

 

[AskingForAFriend]

Thanks

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Possibilities:

1. Bow is out of tune
2. Broadheads aren't aligned properly with the arrow shaft
3. Vanes are hitting the cables and/or rest

Put your arrows on a spinner to visually check for misalignment if you suspect #2. Coat the edges of your vanes with chalk or some other distinctive transferable substance then check for chalk marks on the cables/rest after shooting if you suspect #3.

The quick fix for #1 is to make the rest adjustments shown below. The "right" way would be to reset the bow to an appropriate starting point (ATA/brace height/draw weight/centershot at factory specs, arrow running level through Berger hole) then start adjusting cams first and rest second, but that requires a bow press and a significant amount of time.


https://www.goldtip.com/Resources/Tuning-Assembly/Paper-Tuning-(1).aspx

 

[AskingForAFriend]

I suspect rest, as I’ve built my own arrows I know it’s not an arrow/broadheas/fletching issue. I’m not perfect, but those arrows might be.

 

[Zac]

You have a low left tear. You can fix the low part by moving your rest up until your broadheads are hitting on a horizontal plane with your field tips. Right now you are tearing weak so you will want to move your rest towards the broadheads, or towards the riser until the group comes together. If you start to encroach on your sight housing your going to need to go back to center shot and shim your cam to the left. Or turn the left yoke etc. If that doesn't fix it then you can try taking turns out of your limbs until the groups come together. You could also throw a lighted nock on the back if you are not already using one.

 

[Samdemarais]

My field tips to 65 are 0-3” groups.

By broad heads are fixed 4 blade viper tricks and groups are 0-4” at 65 yards.

Problem is that field tip group is on/around bullseye and broad heads are 4” high and 10” right of bullseye.

Hamskea limb driven rest.

Fix me

Lower rest 1/32 and move right 1/32. Shoot 4-5 groups and see if that makes it better. If you are still right and don’t want to move rest much farther you could take a 1/2 turn out your limb bolts or drop point weight and see what that does. I would just recommend shooting a bunch of shots before you confirm things. It’s a fine line tuning at 60+ yards.

 

[WI in the west]

Last year i had an issue and i know the whole trick on tweaking the rest and its usually worked, well after chasing all around and not getting it to get better then 4 inches apart i went to my buddy who happens to be a pro archer and he checked everything out shot it through paper and everything and he thought the bow is dialed in really well. After digging throigh forumns i found that i was ever so slightly adding pressure with my index knuckle. When i focused on a proper grip they started hitting right on. But id bet you can nudge the rest around if its 10 inches like said above. I just dont see the grip getting brought up much so just throwing it out there

 

[Davebuech]

What poundage, draw length and arrow spine are you shooting? What is the arrow weight/bh weight?

 

[Marble]

What poundage, draw length and arrow spine are you shooting? What is the arrow weight/bh weight?

Thank you! Should have been the first question asked before anything else.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[5MilesBack]

Thank you! Should have been the first question asked before anything else.

Those are all the last things I look at or adjust if needed, and I'm on the upper end of draw length, weight, arrow length, etc. I actually have to laugh every time somebody says someone is underspined that's shooting 65lbs with a 27" draw and same arrow length with a 300 spine arrow because they have an extra 50gr of tip weight.......just an example, but we see this all the time.

It's pretty amazing what you can get the bow to do with a wide range of arrow spines and tip weights.

 

[sndmn11]

What bow?

 

[AskingForAFriend]

Mathews Vertix
29” draw
75lbs
Victor VAP TKO 300 spine
30.25” throat to threads
15.3 FOC
~598 grain arrows

My sights are 25-35-45-55-65
Pictured is field tips with feathers and their BS partners at 20 yards

I was barely off of target out to 30 so I went back to 40, and was shooting bare shafts way right. I moved my rest to the right (as instructed by the link. Though this seems backwards to me) and it may have helped some but I’m not quite sure. A very slight breeze picked up and I shot two arrows to the right into the dirt and snapped a shaft. Called it quits. Not sure if the slight breeze influenced the bare shaft or why my arrow went to the right even further.

 

[AskingForAFriend]

BS tear

 

[Brendan]

Follow the Gold Tip tuning advice that you've been given above, but I'd also rule out Fletching Contact first.

But, you're borderline Weak Spined. I'd probably be shooting a 260 spine at that DL / DW and Arrow length. Keep that in mind if you have issues getting things to tune, and test by turning down DW on your bow.

 

[AskingForAFriend]

The tear in my picture tells me to move my rest left, but the link Keith posted said to move rest right. It seems contradicting. My spine is definitely borderline, but if I beef up my spine I’m going to have to increase arrow weight and additional 25gr (minimum) just to keep FOC at a reasonable spot.

 

[AskingForAFriend]

Lower rest 1/32 and move right 1/32. Shoot 4-5 groups and see if that makes it better. If you are still right and don’t want to move rest much farther you could take a 1/2 turn out your limb bolts or drop point weight and see what that does. I would just recommend shooting a bunch of shots before you confirm things. It’s a fine line tuning at 60+ yards.

Moving right and lower compounded the problem

 

[Samdemarais]

Mathews Vertix
29” draw
75lbs
Victor VAP TKO 300 spine
30.25” throat to threads
15.3 FOC
~598 grain arrows

My sights are 25-35-45-55-65
Pictured is field tips with feathers and their BS partners at 20 yards

I was barely off of target out to 30 so I went back to 40, and was shooting bare shafts way right. I moved my rest to the right (as instructed by the link. Though this seems backwards to me) and it may have helped some but I’m not quite sure. A very slight breeze picked up and I shot two arrows to the right into the dirt and snapped a shaft. Called it quits. Not sure if the slight breeze influenced the bare shaft or why my arrow went to the right even further.

So move it to the left and see if that works. I have never had great luck with bareshaft tuning past 20 yards. I would just shoot your broadheads at 60 and tune to that unless you plan on shooting critters with bareshaft field points.

 

[Samdemarais]

you could be underspined. That’s a long arrow and a lot of force. I would try taking some turns out the limb bolts and see if that makes it better.

 

[AskingForAFriend]

Definitely not. But I want it all dialed now. I get wicked adrenaline dumps when those bulls are coming at me, and I need no other factors to help me miss