Broadheads hitting low

[smlneal]

I recently tried a new arrow setup and had my field points group very tight at 30 yards. Setup is:

Black Eagle Rampage 350 spine
AAE Max Stealth Vanes
Right Helical
Arrow Wrap

Again everything was grouping well. Once I placed on my broadhead, a Dirt Nap fixed blade 100 grain, the arrows started hitting 6 inches off, mostly low.

I tried the broached on a standard Black Eagle Rampage with the factory Blazer vanes (not sure what the offset is on those, maybe 2 degrees?) and was hitting perfect...

Is the right helical to much spin? I thought that was supposed to help...

I tried one more thing with the right helical vane setup, I added a 25 grain insert to the broached and that helped some, but was still off a bit...

Any thoughts?

 

[murf45]

Move your rest up in tiny increments to see if that helps. John Dudley has a great YouTube video on how to broadhead tune.


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[smlneal]

Great, thanks!

 

[GregB]

I had the same problem with Rampage 30 spine. I moved my rest but my field points still hit higher than my broadheads. So I have my breadheads hitting center and I just have to remember my fieldpoints will hit high.

 

[bmart2622]

Everytime my field points move as much as my broadheads its because I moved th rest too far. When I back it off in tiny increments they come together.

 

[Thunder head]

I would paper test the field points first. If they paper test well, that will tell you its broadhead related. The only time I have seen this, we paper tuned the bow. Issue went away after that.

 

[bmart2622]

Paper tune is a good start but by the time a guy does a walk back tune and then a broadhead tune the paper tune has changed anyway.

 

[Boreal]

First do a walk-back tune with your field points. That will tell you if your rest is truly centered. Look up walk-back tuning or "french tuning" videos to see what adjustments might need to be made. It may be that fixing that will also address your shots being high or low. Once that is set, shoot a field point, then a broadhead from the same place, aiming at the same spot. Adjust your rest in tiny (like 1/64") increments TOWARD where you want your broadhead to go, one axis at a time. In other words, if your broadhead is lower than your field point, adjust your rest upwards. Only work one axis at a time because fixing one may fix both.

Good luck!

 

[seldomseensmith]

Just switch to a stick bow and then the 6" at 30 yards will be perfectly acceptable.

 

[gelton]

I am no bow tuning expert but walk back tuning had me chasing my tail this year...bareshaft tuning solved the problem pretty much immediately.

From my understanding bareshafts react pretty much exactly the same as a vaned arrow with a broadhead.

For me, once I had my arrows hitting the same spot as my bareshafts, the broadheads did too.

 

[rileybassman]

I am no bow tuning expert but walk back tuning had me chasing my tail this year...bareshaft tuning solved the problem pretty much immediately.

From my understanding bareshafts react pretty much exactly the same as a vaned arrow with a broadhead.

For me, once I had my arrows hitting the same spot as my bareshafts, the broadheads did too.

Agree with this... bareshaft tuning is basically an exaggerated paper tune... your goal is to minimize the work that the fletches are doing when the arrow is flying.

Walk back tuning is helpful for finding center shot, but may require slight tweaks depending on arrow spine etc.

Spin test your broadheads too - if one is off, keep track of it while you are shooting.

You may benefit more from adjusting your nock point in addition to your rest for elevation changes FYI.