Broadhead Tuning

[doverpack12]

One thing I haven't see mentioned is hand torque. Mathews grips are not the best for promoting a proper grip. Check you idler wheel to make sure the lean is correct on it. Lay an arrow shaft along the left side of the idler wheel and then look at where the arrow shaft crosses the bowstring. It should cross at about your nock point.

Now, come to full draw and have someone look at the bowstring in relation to the idler wheel. The string should be coming off in a straight line. If it's not, you are likely inducing grip torque and that is causing you to hit right.

Remember, the grip should never cross the the line in your palm that is between your thumb and your fingers.

It could be grip torque but it is improving moving the rest its just tuning outside of center which kind of points to the idler leaning slightly. Twist the right yolk a little maybe a full twist and take a half or full twist out of the left depending on how straight the idler wheel is (use jason's method of laying an arrow on the wheel to test for straightness). Now if the idler is straight to start with then the draw length is long. For a better explanation than I can provide go to archery talk and find NutsandBolts kitchen sink tuning method.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443

it starts on post #5

 

[ontarget7]

It could be grip torque but it is improving moving the rest its just tuning outside of center which kind of points to the idler leaning slightly. Twist the right yolk a little maybe a full twist and take a half or full twist out of the left depending on how straight the idler wheel is (use jason's method of laying an arrow on the wheel to test for straightness). Now if the idler is straight to start with then the draw length is long. For a better explanation than I can provide go to archery talk and find NutsandBolts kitchen sink tuning method.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1844443

it starts on post #5

On the Helims the idler most likely will not be straight at brace and will need some pre lean added into it for best lateral nock travel. This is determined by broadhead impact or even better bareshaft impact. Like Jason mentioned grip is critical but I would bet you need a slight yoke adjustment

It really various per bow and even draw length

 

[KMT]

If you're dead on at 20 and 30 yards and only off by 2-2.5" at 40, I wouldn't do anything else. Two inches at 40 yards is nothing to be too concerned about. My guess is that your elk shots in colorado all happen at less than 30 yards.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Also check for fletching contact. With your drop away you should pretty well be able to center it and be very close to in tune.