Broadhead Tuning

[Curtis C]

Wondering if I can get some pointers getting my broadheads dialed in a little better. I have made some rest adjustments and gotten them close. I am still about 2 to 2.5 inches right of field points at 40+ yards. 20 and 30 groups right along with field points. I am an OK shot but not great, so form could be a slight part of my problem. Setup is a RH Helim at 68# 29" draw using a QAD drop away rest. Easton Axis InFused carbon 340 arrows cut to 28.75" with 100gr FP's and Ramcat BH's. Any pointers would sure be appreciated.

 

[velvetfvr]

Have you bare shaft tuned??

 

[Curtis C]

The pro shop did some paper tuning with FP's but that's about it. I am almost certain they did not bare shaft tune and I know I haven't. I have since moved the rest left and up to get to where I am with BH's.

 

[doverpack12]

Before you adjust anything else. That's not shooting that bad so any adjustment will be small. How much have you moved your rest to the left? If its alot or the broadhead and field point gap is not shrinking then that points to a draw length slightly long resulting in your right elbow not being aligned with the arrow and instead pulling the string to the left and causing the broadhead to start off pointing to the right a little and so it is flying straight just along a different path then field point. Don't change your draw length unless the gap is not decreasing. The draw length change will be small like 1/8" maybe and its probably easier to change it on the release or d-loop than cam adjustment or twisting strings and cables.

 

[doverpack12]

You posted while I was writing. Is the distance closing?

 

[Lawnboi]

Ill also mention to look at your arrows, spined correctly? Do they spin true? I always start there before I start moving stuff.

 

[Curtis C]

Yes I started out about 5" right and 2" low. Adj's I have made are 1.5 hash left and 1 hash up. The rest is only going to go another .5 hash to left before it hits its limit. That's why I am asking, I figure there may be other changes I should consider.

 

[doverpack12]

Your arrows should be just fine I shoot a setup very similar with great results.

 

[Curtis C]

Ill also mention to look at your arrows, spined correctly? Do they spin true? I always start there before I start moving stuff.

The Axis 340's are correct per the Easton chart. They do appear to spin true with an eyecrometer. I group consistent but the BH groups are to the right of FP groups.

 

[doverpack12]

Just stand them up with point down on youf finger and give a spin with the other hand if it doesn't feel terrible off balance they will be alright to 40 or 50

 

[Curtis C]

They spin on hand good with FP's, haven't tried that test with BH's

 

[doverpack12]

Yes I started out about 5" right and 2" low. Adj's I have made are 1.5 hash left and 1 hash up. The rest is only going to go another .5 hash to left before it hits its limit. That's why I am asking, I figure there may be other changes I should consider.

Try shortening draw length just a little maybe 1/8" to start but keep the same anchor and everything just allow right elbow to move more in line with arrow. See if that changes impact point. If its still improving you could move rest the last 0.5 line but most mathews tune correctly inside of that so Its more than likely just a little bit long of a draw length. Don't change the module or string or cable settings. Just shorten your release a little or wear the gloves you will wear first to shrink that draw length a little. This should bring the broadhead towards your field points.

 

[Lawnboi]

They spin on hand good with FP's, haven't tried that test with BH's

With bh's on, find a flat, hard surface, put the tip of the head on the surface and spin. Especially considering your shooting axis, sometimes a little wobble with throw it off by quite a bit, especially out at 40

Like I said, w/ broadheads, make sure your arrows are 100% before monkeying with the bow.

 

[Curtis C]

Damn'it Lawnboi you owe my wife a new dining table. The arrow spins smooth but it drill a divot in her table

 

[Curtis C]

I think my 340 axis arrows are right on(these are not the FMJ arrows). I did spin the dull ramcat in my palm and it spins smooth. I started out with goldtip XT hunter 5575 cut to 28"(which was borderline on spine chart) and my groups were inconsistent with those. I have never been one to index my broadheads to the vanes, something I should consider with this setup?

 

[doverpack12]

I think my 340 axis arrows are right on(these are not the FMJ arrows). I did spin the dull ramcat in my palm and it spins smooth. I started out with goldtip XT hunter 5575 cut to 28"(which was borderline on spine chart) and my groups were inconsistent with those. I have never been one to index my broadheads to the vanes, something I should consider with this setup?

Some argue it matters some don't. Chuck adams doesn't. Randy Ulmer does

 

[ontarget7]

Right impact is good on the Helim. Now I would just add one full twist to the left side of the yoke and take one out of the right side.

Let me know what you get after you do this and stay with the 340's

Shane

 

[doverpack12]

ontarget7 suggestion is an easy one to try and could also be the solution. I am not that familiar with the Helim bows so if he is try that first. I have fixed this problem with other bows doint that. If that does not fix the problem then it is the draw length a little long.

 

[Curtis C]

Right impact is good on the Helim. Now I would just add one full twist to the left side of the yoke and take one out of the right side.

Let me know what you get after you do this and stay with the 340's

Shane

I will have to take to the bow shop for this. I am gonna shorten my release and shoot a few groups before going that route. If that doesn't work I will take it Evan for the yoke adj.

 

[Jason Snyder]

One thing I haven't see mentioned is hand torque. Mathews grips are not the best for promoting a proper grip. Check you idler wheel to make sure the lean is correct on it. Lay an arrow shaft along the left side of the idler wheel and then look at where the arrow shaft crosses the bowstring. It should cross at about your nock point.

Now, come to full draw and have someone look at the bowstring in relation to the idler wheel. The string should be coming off in a straight line. If it's not, you are likely inducing grip torque and that is causing you to hit right.

Remember, the grip should never cross the the line in your palm that is between your thumb and your fingers.